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"That Useful Wine Site"
The Greco Grape

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About Greco

(Synonyms: Balsamina Bianca, Biancame, Greco Biondello, Greco Castellano, Greco delle Torre, Greco del Vesuvio, Greco di Gerace, Greco di Napoli, Greco di Tufo, Greco Maceratino, Greco Moneccio, Grecula, Grecu Niuru, Grieco, Gieco, Grecau, Montecchiese, Morbidella, Ragusano Bianco, Sambiase, Verdicchio near)

Background

Greco grapes Map showing the Campania region of Italy

Greco is a white-wine grape presumably (by the name) originating in Greece, but now of Italian growth. (Note that there is also a Greco Nero grape, which makes red wines; it is not of much importance, and we will here use "Greco" to mean exclusively Greco Bianco.)

Greco finds its highest expression in the Greco di Tufo wines from the town and Campania-region appellation of Tufo. The grape is of ancient heritage, having come into Italy over two and a half millennia ago; it was described (and praised) by eminent writers from the classical age of Rome, and may have been a component of the famed Falernian wines of that era.

There are still arguments running about whether "Greco" is a single grape type (with varying clones) or a catchall name that covers several similar but not identical types. DNA profiling is helping to resolve some of those questions, but the matter is not yet settled (for instance, there is a hot question as to whether Asprinio, often regarded as a minor grape type, is in fact the same thing as Greco—the DNA seems to say as much). In general, one just evaluates all "Greco" wines as if they were from the same grape, though, again, the di Tufo types are very widely held to be clearly superior (either a better clone or a better type, and which is immaterial).

Greco wines are typically relatively deep in color for whites, and have a profound nose (Jancis Robinson has likened it, in a vague way, to Viognier). The taste, however, is not usually fruit-forward; what fruit there is will be stone fruit, notably peach, though some find pomes instead (apples, pears). There is also usually some citrus-y quality, and most especially substantial minerality. Greco usually has medium to high acidity, making it tart and crisp. Better Greco wines can bottle-age to advantage, and acquire herbal overtones as they do, though there is always a risk of eventual over-oxidation and ruination of the wine.

Greco is one of a trio of white wines that distinguish the Campania region: Greco di Tufo, Fiano, and Falanghina. As a rough rule of thumb, a vintner who is good at any of those will be good at all of them, and a few notable houses tend to dominate regional production.

Factoid: The name "di Tufo" derives from the regions soils, which are "tuff", a rock type originating in volcanic ash; such ash, where found, significantly affects the flavor of grapes grown in it.


Some Descriptions of Greco Wines

  • Wikipedia

    "Greco bianco wines are noted for their aromatic qualities which some wine experts, such as Jancis Robinson, describing the wines as being vaguely similar to Viognier. Some aromas commonly associated with the grape include peaches and fresh green foliage. With age, Greco wines can develop more herbal notes."

  • Wine Searcher

    "Armed with excellent acidity and a fresh, clean, grapey flavor profile, Greco wines are best consumed young. They tend to oxidize in bottle relatively quickly (within just a few years of vintage), resulting in nutty, caramelized flavors."

  • Wine Lovers Page

    "Greco is most famously grown in the province of Avellino - historically known as Irpinia- located inland some 30 miles east of Napoli and the sea. In and around the town of Tufo - named for the tufaceous soil - the wine is known as Greco di Tufo. This is a dry white with aromas of lemon and pear with notes of almond and a light minerality in the finish. Many Campanian wines - both white and red - are decribed as having mineral flavors, which is due in large parts to the local soils, many of which have been altered by deposits of lava from Mount Vesuvius over the centuries."

  • View Italy

    "This is not a mild wine, it is full of personality, and is said to compensate for the gentle nature of the inhabitants of the Irpinia (the mountains that encompass the region) who transformed this hard land with attention and love. Greco di Tufo is truly a particular white wine. Its personality and flavor make it a perfect choice for delicate foods, such as appetizers and fish with butter or white sauces and just as appropriate with quality roasts and medium structured meats."

  • Laurie Daniel, San Jose Mercury News

    "Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino grow in the hills around the city of Avellino. Greco often exhibits a strong minerality in addition to its racy fruit. . . Falanghina, Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino generally are drunk young, but some bottles can age."

  • Vintner's Circle

    "Cultivated in the volcanic hills of the Avellino Province, the grapes that go into Greco di Tufo are exposed to a climate that enables them to retain acidity as they ripen. The rich volcanic soil gives the resulting wine its complexity and mineral quality. It also yields notes of citrus, pear and toasted almonds. Only eight villages in the Compania region are legally allowed to call their wine Greco di Tufo and these wines must contain a minimum of 85 percent Greco di Tufo grapes. Greco di Tufo is a surprisingly robust alternative to red wine when enjoying some of the Italian classic dishes. Because of its high acidity, it is the perfect match for fresh tomatoes – in sauces, salads, pasta dishes and more. The medium body wine compliments all types of seafood dishes such as shrimp scampi, clams and calamari.

  • Åsa Johansson, BK Wine Magazine

    "Greco is a fairly neutral grape with few primary aromas. But if you succeed with the challenge to conquer all the difficulties then you get a complex and mineral wine with good structure and high acidity. It is not unusual that the acidity is as high as 10 grams per litre. You can feel it in the teeth after having tasted forty different Greco di Tufo during a morning. There is no tradition of aging the Greco di Tufo wines, although according to me they have the potential for ageing, given the high acidity. This was evident when [in 2013] we tried a Greco di Tufo from 2003 from the Pietracupa winery. It was an amazing wine, elegant with a fresh acidity that was toned down somewhat with the age. Scents of dried apricots and citrus followed by a long mellow taste with tones rich in minerality, yes, simply an amazingly good wine. But it was the only older vintage of Greco di Tufo available to taste during the anteprima so it is hard to put it in context."

  • Loren Sonkin, Into Wine

    "Greco di Tufo is a mineral driven wine that reflects the ancient volcanic chain that makes up the soil in this area. It is a clean refreshing wine that needs to be consumed young. These wines need food as they contain a lot of natural acidity and are not high in “fruit” flavors. They have an almond like quality and some background notes of pears. Although historically a sweet wine, they are almost always vinified completely dry and make great pairings with sea food or salads."

  • "As most producers opt not to mature these wines in wood, the aromatic profiles of each stand out, with Greco delivering more lemon and pear aromatics (along with a pleasing note of almond in the nose and the finish) . . . Greco tends to drink best within five years of the vintage date . . . Greco tends to be more reserved with slightly higher acidity (in some cases) as well as having a bit more minerality. These estimates about aging are general of course and it’s always a treat to learn about a Greco or Fiano that shows well more than a decade out."

  • Campania Foods

    "Greco di Tufo stands out from the rest of the crowd thanks to the unique characteristics of the sulphur and tufa-rich (hence its name), volcanic and clay-laden soils, which lend the wine its perfume, complexity, and minerality. This refreshing and crisp white is known for its beautiful balance, and is also characterized by its aromatic notes of lemons, pears, toasted almonds and lingering, mineral finish. Greco is generally at its best within two to three years of bottling."


Some Grecos to Try

(About this list.)

The Big Three regional producers of the Big Three regional whites are Mastroberardino, Feudi di San Gregorio, and Terredora (a Mastroberardino family spinoff). That is not to say that the other producers, though they are small, family-run operations, are to be discounted.

The quotations below are excerpts; we strenuously urge you to click on the green diamond symbol by each quoted review to see the full article.
  • Vinosia Greco di Tufo, $12 - $17.
    (This is their basic bottling of Greco di Tufo, not the "L'Ariella".)
         ($17.34 at Saratoga Wine Exchange).

    Some quotations and facts:

    This new winery (10 years old) shows up in references and as entries on lists of preferred Greco di Tufo wines, but there are almost no actual online writeups of the wine. This is as much as we could locate, but we list the wine because of all those favorable mentions.

    This wine has all the qualities you look for in a good Greco di Tufo: the aromas are fragrant and fruity and there is a solid mineral backbone for structure and dimension. Made from grapes grown in volcanic, sulfur-rich soils, the wine offers pretty tropical fruit flavors. 87 points.

    [Google-translated from German:] The color of light yellow to pale green. The nose is refreshing and fruity reminiscent of peach with a delicate almond note. The wine is full-bodied as previously already written and juicy, pleasant reduced acidity and nice minerality.

    [Google-translated from Italian:] Straw warm personality and a great aroma, intense fruit crisp white and mix Sorrentine citrus. In the mouth rides the citric acidity. It weighs savory minerality volcanic. Flowing, fresh, persistent aftertaste.

    The Greco di Tufo 2009, an intense strawyellow in colour, with a pleasant range of fragrances; it contains notes of vanilla and fruit and is dry and vigorous on the palate.


  • Mastroberardino Greco di Tufo, $13 - $28.
    (This is their basic bottling of Greco di Tufo, not the upscale "Nova Serra".)

    Some quotations and facts:

    Pale gold colour. Classic sugared almonds aroma coupled with clementine and tarragon. Very perfumed and fresh. Palate is zingy and slightly mineral yet balanced beautifully with some sweet pineapple fruit and chewy texture up front, a little oily saline and a surprising kickback of floral character.

    This is not a fruit-driven wine. It's quite savoury, dry and minerally on the palate, with a hint of floral and citrus notes but nothing overt. There's soft acidity and a fresh finish. While it's great chilled on its own, it matches really well with seafood.

    Brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections; it's a pretty color. The bouquet is fresh -- no tiredness about it -- but also mature, with considerable minerality and some underlying acidity. On the palate it's full and bright, with elegant minerality and mineral acidity that flow into a long clean savory finish. Quite nice, and once again confirms that many Italian whites are much more ageworthy than people commonly give them credit for. 90 points.

    This light white gold wine opens with a light pear like bouquet with a hint of lime. On the palate, this wine is light bodied, balanced, a little crisp, with mineral infused lime like flavors. The finish is dry and subtle.

    Intense straw yellow. Fruity bouquet with apricot and peach notes. Smooth, elegant, mineral and full body.

    Somewhat neutral nose with apples and minerals. Firm, dry, long, with good acidity, resin. 86 points.

    Greco di Tufo, which balances floral, honeyed aromas with a bracing acidity, is one of several intriguing whites from Campania. On a recent visit, I sampled good examples from Mastroberardino and another giant of the region, I Feudi di San Gregorio, as well as from newer, smaller outfits like Pietracupa and Cantine dell’Angelo.

    Greco di Tufo is a mineral driven wine that reflects the ancient volcanic chain that makes up the soil in this area. It is a clean refreshing wine that needs to be consumed young. These wines need food as they contain a lot of natural acidity and are not high in “fruit” flavors. They have an almond like quality and some background notes of pears. Although historically a sweet wine, they are almost always vinified completely dry and make great parings with sea food or salads. The better producers include Mastroberardino, Feudi di san Gregorio, and Terredora.


  • Torricino Greco di Tufo, $14 - $16.

    Some quotations and facts:

    Stefano [di Marzo] is very proud of the fact that his vineyards are located on top of volcanic sulfur deposits that give the wine an insane aromatic profile and densely structured mouthfeel that you have to experience to believe (and in a GOOD way). A huge hit at our tastings this season, And here is a comment from an internet wine buddy of ours: “That wine stopped and then redirected the conversation at a party, wow....”. So, what does it taste like? Imagine a tincture of dried apricots, wild honey and toasted (smoked?) almonds but with an absolutely dry and invigorating finish. But it’s better than that...

    Looking for something different to wet your whistle? Made from the varietal called Greco, here is a wine similar to honeyed Pinot Blanc. Interesting complexity, since it has the acid to keep up the tension but also has a little bass note. It's aged 6 months in Slavonian oak barrels and only 200 cases were made.

    Stefano di Marzo stepped up, to press a Greco di Tufo with individuality. He would like to significantly rise above the large wine cellars represented in the region with this wine. His vines grow in Tofu’s best vineyards in soils which are rich in chalk and weathered volcanic material. Di Marzo takes care of vineyards near the old sulphur mines as an oddity. . . Di Marzo emphasizes the character and texture of both wines [Greco and Fiano]. Thus he creates wines which are contrary to the mainstream of Italian wine reviews: they do not dazzle with a youthful freshness that is created by tricks from cellar technology, but they try to remain locked in their youth and reveal their aromatic fullness during the bottle’s ripening process. It is with this style that Stefano di Marzo has already given the winemaking of his home country important food for thought.

    [Google-translated from Italian:] It's an explosion of freshness and acid backbone. Color has nose load of juicy fruit and great minerality accompanied by smoky notes. Party with a complex nose of ripe peach and medlar and still continues with a handful of mild herbs. In evolving the Greco should stay in the bottle, then you have the patience to wait and see what you can get in a year. The pungency of the acidity makes its way to the mouth. Sharp and has great vertical salinity and extraction for a sip of expert substance, structure and material. A true champion.

    [Google-translated from Italian:] Golden color, light and bright, great visual impact; nose with scents clean, frank and intense fruit ripe/overripe, Acacia honey, very rewarding; goes soft in the mouth, it opens perfectly into the center of the mouth, you will feel a slight hint of vanilla, but that breaks out and shows the great sapidit, MINERALITY, notes sulfur sulfur, hydrocarbons, while being a nice acidity in wine overripe, long Pai, with a large salivation seemingly endless, from here to eternity. A Greco di Tufo very distinctive, full, rewarding and extreme, among the best ever tasted in an absolute sense: by standing ovation

    [Google-translated from Italian:] I loved it-said-to his bright pale yellow color, very bright and shining in the glass (...) in the mouth the wine remains very balanced, technically flawless.

    [Google-translated from Italian:] Torricino di Stefano di Marzo, which produces a pure Greco di Tufo worthy of attention. Exemplary recall varietal nose, bitter almonds and taste-olfactory nerve where the palate and gratify the substance to drink.

    [Google-translated from Italian:] Stefano for some few years now makes this wine separately using oak barrels. The basic idea remains the same: to balance the incredible level of acidity which is available in abundance on the vine with a structure, body and extracts, of equal importance and intensity, instead of trying to lower the acidity of the wine, make it more ready and easy to use with artifice rather than with the 15% of other grapes permitted by the legal specifications. This balance his Greco tries and finds with time in the bottle. The Raone 2005 is a white, in fact, that it will last a long time. At this time the balance is still, definitely, on the freshness and minerality. The tension is appreciable taste with a finish marked not only by acidity, but also by a remarkable savory edge. The wood is perceived but is well blended and integrated.


  • DonnaChiara Greco di Tufo, $15 - $21.
         ($16.74 at Saratoga Wine Exchange).

    Some quotations and facts:

    On the nose I found notes of melon, pineapple and candied citrus. This is fairly big mouthful of wine, but not at all overpowering. The flavors follow the nose. The texture is soft and unctuous with a very long round finish.

    Here’s a lovely Greco di Tufo with aromas of pressed flowers, peach and tropical fruit. The palate has structure and finesse, delivering ripe peach, apricot and pineapple flavors impeccably balanced by refreshing acidity. 88 points.

    Straw yellow in colour, this Donnachiara Greco di Tufo offers a subtle nose of melon and grapefruit before revealing a supple and medium bodied palate. Notes of melon lead as this Greco is tasted, with a typical chalky minerality emerging from the mid-palate. Hints of grapefruit carried over from the nose remain as this wine slowly fades. Overall this Donnachiara Greco di Tufo is a nicely balanced wine that show good typicity, even if the “X” factor required for a 90+ score is missing. 87 points.

    [Google-translated from Italian:] Pale straw and crystal clear. Nose extreme clarity and deep sipping some puffs of flowers and herbs. Mouth that starts quietly and then widens with inviting blend of flavors. Consistent closure and just warm. 85-87 points.

    This is a wine that needs at least 5 or 6 years of bottle age before it is ready to drink, she [the winemaker] remarked. .  The wine was just starting to come around [2010 vintage in 2014], it has nice citrus aromas and flavors, a hint of smoke and a touch of almonds in the finish and aftertaste.

    This ancient Greek grape generally produces a light, dry, nondescript white wine, but Donnachiara offers a more pronounced version that is made and aged exclusively in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Both vintages [2010 & 2011] exhibited fresh and clean apple-like flavors with supporting acidity. The additional year of aging gave the 2010 more richness and body.

    Straw, yellow colour with an attractive fresh nose of herbs and flowers, some subtle green apple too. In the mouth it’s well integrated, balanced and harmonious.

    Donna Chiara’s 2008 Greco di Tufo was a treat for the senses as well with a lovely bouquet and a crisp, fresh finish. The price points bring their own special kind of joy.

    The soil is tuffaceous, the training system is Guyot and there are 3,300 plants per hectare. Fermentation for about 90 days in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine had flavors and aromas of citrus, pear and a hint of pineapple.


  • Terredora di Paolo "Loggia della Serra" Greco di Tufo, $15 - $24.
    (This is their upscale bottling of Greco di Tufo.)

    Some quotations and facts:

    Color: It was super golden in color but didn’t look that viscous. I expected ripe flavors. Smell: The aroma was much bigger than I thought it was going to be. Peach and honey notes were really prominent and there was a wet rock thing coming out of the glass too. It wasn’t a very complex nose, more straightforward — nice clean aroma. This was going to be good, I expected. Taste: Delicious on its own AND with food. This wine packed a punch for a white. It was peachy, honeyed, and lemony. It even had a little bit of pineapple flavor. There was acid, but it wasn’t overpowering and the sensation of licking a rock came to mind on the finish (i.e., it was minerally). Drink or Down the Sink? Drink. Loved it.

    Silky smooth, full-bodied, with smooth peach, apricot and tangerine/citrus aromas and flavors that linger on an elegant, lightly spicy, mineral-laced finish.

    ♣ Wine Spectator: 30 September 2013, 89 points; Top 100 Wuines of 2011, 90 points (wine #87).

    ♣ Wine Advocate (date unknown), 90 points.

    The 2011 Greco di Tufo Loggia della Serra impresses for its energy and pure focus. Smoke, slate, crushed rocks and pears are all layered together in a gorgeous, medium-bodied white. All the elements meld together beautifully in this striking, delineated white. There is an understated intensity on the finish that is hugely appealing. The Loggia della Sera is the most complete and harmonious of Terredora’s 2011 whites.

    A zesty white, sporting a creamy edge to the lime, melon, pine and chalk notes, with a smoke-tinged finish.

    [C]olored a dark shade of yellow, smelled of pine resin and bitter lemon. The palate focused on mint, basil, and pineapple while the finish was high and long.

    This [2010] is a worthy follow up to the excellent 2009 vintage of this wine which featured in the Wines of the Week back in September, and ended up in Wine Spectator's Top 100 of 2011. Some tropical characters give richness at first, balancing the lovely minerality evident, before crisp citrus and apple characters keep it fresh and zingy on the dry finish. As the name suggests, the wines come from the beautiful estate-owned Loggia Della Serra vineyard. Terredora has owned all their grape production since 1994.

    One of Avellino’s most consistent estates, [Terredora] delivered again with their new 2008 whites. This is an excellent vintage, a bit lighter than 2007, but with fine depth of fruit and beautiful structure; highly recommened are their new bottlings of Greco di Tufo “Loggia della Serra” and Fiano di Avellino “Terre di Dora.”

    [Google-translated from Spanish:] Deep golden yellow with golden highlights, aromatic and well pronounced fruity notes such as apple, peach and citrus with a rich structural complexity. On the palate it is smooth and well balanced, with good acidity and good persistence; also, has great potential.


  • Benito Ferrara Greco di Tufo, $16 - $22.
    (This is their basic bottling of Greco di Tufo, not the "Vigna Cicogna".)

    Some quotations and facts:

    The Benito Ferrara Winery has been producing wines in the small village of Tufo since the 1880s. Their hillside vineyards are soils rich in minerals such as calcium, potassium and silicon. These minerals are drawn up by the roots producing crisp aromatic wines. Their Greco di Tufo, 2011 is pale straw in color, it has citrus aromas, especially lemon and wet slate. The mineralality has a strong presence on the palate with lime peel and lemon giving it a pleasant crispness. This wine has a full mouth-feel and a medium finish.

    It is . . . full-bodied and flavorful but not sweet or oaky at all. The first thing I thought of when I tried this wine was caramel apples. Also, toasted almonds, straw and charred cedar. So, if you can imagine all of this mixed together and then take away all the sugar, that's kind of what it tastes like. Pay careful attention to the temperature of this wine—like most, it changes significantly when it warms up a little and you'll be able to get some subtleties out of it that you can't when it's right out of the chiller.

    Vivid, straw yellow colour with lemon reflections, the nose is sophisticated and expressive, boasting lots of citrus and herb. The palate is acidic but well structured, bringing mineral complexity and a smoky, salty character to the finish.

    This producer rarely misses the mark and this wine is no exception. The color is strangely quite clear, almost too clear. The aroma, on the other hand, is bold, precise, millimetric and ripe with scents of fresh flowers, peach and chamomile. The flavor is also very nice, a drop that gives pleasure for a long time without retreating. 88 points.

    Very rich yellow color. Very dense. Typically a south Italian white. The nose is mineral, dense. A bit of bakery and white fruit. In the background some alcohol. The palate is very equilibrated, dense, mineral and fruity. The aftertaste turns quickly to a bitter almond flavor. A bit buttery. Mmmm ... it seems a wine which could do better with some waiting to get the dense fruitiness down.

    The Azienda Benito Ferrara is a tiny family winery that makes outstanding hand-crafted Greco di Tufo. This bottling which is 100 percent Greco, displays a deep yellow gold color and a bouquet of ripe pear, honey, toast, and floral notes. On the medium-bodied palate, it offers ripe apricot and pear fruit with bitter almond and vanilla bean, lovely acidity and balance and a long finish. A delicious wine! 90 points.

    [Google-translated from Italian:] Good smoky note, and then citrusy lime sulfur, intense and broad-shouldered, in the mouth is wide, long supported by a good acidity to not split, with good body.

    [Google-translated from Italian:] Straw vivid. Refined nose that clearly expresses its deep olfactory always stamped evidence from sulfur and mineral, accompanied by citrus and herbs. Mouth energetic and continues in salinity, not aggressive despite the inherent hardness. Not overly structured; a thread of heat over the top looks good as a whole. 90-92 points.


  • Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo, $17 - $30.
    (This is their basic bottling of Greco di Tufo not the upscale "Cutizzi".)
         ($21.54 at Saratoga Wine Exchange).

    Some quotations and facts:

    After opening the bottle the pale yellow color stroked my eyes. Aromas of honey and some fruits, including melon & a little bit of pear were present. The aromas were not that intense though. On the palate the wine was very soft with a notable minerality and a refreshing acidity. ABV is listed at 13%. The finish was medium. . . Gambero Rosso awarded the Greco di Tufo from Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 vintage their highest prize, the “Tre Bicchieri” (Three Glasses). It scored 90 out of 100 points at Veronelli.

    I will offer a few brief thoughts on a few of the best I tasted, starting with the 2012 Greco di Tufo from Feudi di San Gregorio. There has been a lot of excitement at this esteemed firm over the past several years, as proprietor Antonio Capaldo has been investing in a great deal of research in vineyard and cellar work . . . but the real surprise here is the classic Greco di Tufo from 2012. Capaldo has begun a new program of single vineyard offerings, beginning with the 2012 vintage. . . [T]he best sites for Greco were blended into one wine. This is as good an entry level Greco di Tufo as you will find, with lemon zest, Anjou pear and lemon zest aromas along with a touch of almond. Offering a rich mid-palate and notable persistence, this is a delightful wine for clams or other shellfish and is a wonderful value, given the $22 retail price (approximate) on American shelves.

    ♣ International Wine Cellar (date unknown), 87 points.

    ♣ Wine Advocate (2008 vintage), 89 points.

    The 2008 Greco di Tufo is a very serious white at this level. It is classic Greco in its reserved, steely demeanor, but with time its mineral-driven personality begins to emerge. The wine offers terrific energy and focus in a taut style that recalls Chablis.

    The colour of the wine is a straw yellow and quite pretty. The bouquet was a little less exciting at first, almost neutral in its chalkiness. After warming up for a little while the Greco opened up, exposing us to a fresh and crisp nose whose chalkiness was enhanced by aniseed, sweets, unripe banana, toasted almonds and mushroom. There was an interesting contrast between a certain sharpness and a fruity creaminess, described by one of the judges as "body shop mandarin hand lotion as opposed to fresh mandarin". Still not exactly an exuberant nose, but not unpleasant. On the tongue a crisp wine dominated by chalk and mineral and a crisp, fresh finish; over time it became a little fruiter, adding for instance grapefruit and lime. A nicely balanced wine that needs a little time but makes for a pleasant but not mind-blowing entertainer.

    Fermented in stainless steel (with four months of maturation on the lees), this 2011 Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo displays a golden hue in the glass, with fragrant aromas of melon, pear and greengage slowly wafting upwards. Light to medium bodied on the palate and exhibiting an attractive underlying chalky minerality, this Feudi di San Gregorio Greco is an appealing and well balanced white wine. The melon, pear and greengage notes of the nose slowly dissolve into a chalky finish of good length. Whilst there is enough acidity to provide refreshment, the impact of that acidity upon the palate is nicely tempered by the round fruit and chalky notes in a manner that makes this wine thoroughly approachable. Suitable for drinking now, or with some additional bottle age. 87 points.

    In The Times [Tim Atkin MW] chooses it as a wine of the week, describing it as "A Neapolitan white that combines nutmeg spice, honeyed depth, crisp acidity and a pleasantly bitter twist."

    Greco often exhibits a strong minerality in addition to its racy fruit. The 2011 Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo ($21) has that minerality, along with zippy citrus and green apple.

    Bright straw-yellow with golden highlights. The still youthfully closed nose releases mineral and citrus fruit scents slowly. Enters the mouth bright and fresh, showing herbal, apricot and lemon verbena flavors. Not the last word in complexity but balanced and enjoyable. Finishes with a varietally typical sulfur-mineral note.


For a Splurge

There are quite a few Grecos from which one might choose a splurge wine, but between this and that, we opted to suggest the Feudi di San Gregorio "Cutizzi" upscale bottling. It is not widely available, but you should be able to find a bottle if you're interested. Prices seem all over the lot, from $19 up to $37.



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