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Wine is as good as life to a man, if it be drunk moderately: what life is then to a man that is without wine? for it was made to make men glad.
—Ecclesiasticus, ch. 38, v. 1
(Our sample bottle was purchased by us at standard retail.)
Carricante is one of those old grapes (probably a millennium or so in this case) currently undergoing a revival. It is a white-wine grape that comes from Sicily (and, so far as we know, is grown nowhere else); it especially thrives in the volcanic soil around Mount Etna. This particular wine is from the Tasca d'Almerita winery, one of the leading producers in the region.
Carricante wines are not inexpensive in the U.S. This is the only one that Wine Searcher Pro finds anywhere at under our arbitrary $20 limit (it ranges at retail from about $17 up to $27, averaging $21); it is not universally available, but there seem to be a sufficiency of retailers across the land carrying it that obtaining a bottle ought not to be a test.
The evening we had our bottle, my lady had asked for something mineral-y, and she concurred that this met the bill. The wine did not strike us as having either a nose or a flavor that seemed especially assertive; indeed, "delicate" seemed more appropriate. We say that because some other reviewers have called it "rich" and "dense", but we feel that does not characterize the wine as we found it in this particular bottle.
But there is no doubt that this was a very pleasing wine. Its nose opened with promises of light citrus and floral qualities overlaying a bedrock minerality, and the taste delivered just that. It had that key quality that defines an interesting wine, commonly called "complexity", which is a way of saying that you get out of it what you put into it in paying attention. The minerality was quite perceptible, and made us think of running water splashed over slate.
The wine sees no wood in vinification, which is all to the good with these sorts of charming, crisp whites. This is a wine that one can settle in with for a long afternoon or evening, knowing that every sip is worth focussing on and will deliver pleasure. It is not a bruiser the way, say, a Sauvignon Blanc is, knocking you right back off your pins; rather, it is a subtle and alluring wine that entices you into minding its qualities.
This is by no means a "bargain" wine, but we think it well worth its price. Recommended.
On CellarTracker.
On Wine Searcher's Tasting Notes page.
Of some major wine-review sites:
(2015 review of 2013 vintage), 91 points:
A dense and rich white from Sicily with a dried lemon zest, apple and mineral character. Full body, fresh acidity and a tangy finish."
(2014 review of 2012 vintage), 93 points:
A salty and rich white with minerals, lemons and a sliced apple character. Wonderful density and freshness all at the same time. A benchmark white from Etna. It shows Burgundian density.
(October 2014), 89 points:
A svelte white backed by well-cut acidity, this open-knit version offers a subtle mix of crunchy pear, mineral, fleur del sel, green melon and fresh ginger notes. Finishes fresh and moderately long. RECOMMENDED WHITE WINE FROM SICILY
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