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Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani

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Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani: a Review

Wine is as good as life to a man, if it be drunk moderately: what life is then to a man that is without wine? for it was made to make men glad.
    —Ecclesiasticus, ch. 38, v. 1

(Our sample bottle was purchased by us at standard retail.)

About Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani

Dolcetto is sometimes call a "waiting" wine, because it is what the Piedmontese locals drink while they wait for the Nebbiolo. It thus tends to often be made rather casually, as a quick drink-it-up wine. But some makers, including Luigi Einaudi, take it more seriously, and try to get at the grape's better qualities. (Einaudi also makes a much more upscale version, their "Vigna Tecc" Dogliani Superiore, which goes for $22 to $33).

Dolcetto di Dogliani, of the three major regional variants (also including d'Alba & di Diano d'Alba, though there are eight Dolcetto regions all told), is commonly held to make the biggest and longest-lived Dolcetto wines (the wine is not normally thought of as age-worthy).

This Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani was, per the makers's web site "Fermented in steel tanks under strict temperature control (28°C), racked after 4/5 days, decanted, gotten malolactic treatment and completed at a controlled temperature. Decanted a number of times during maturation in steel tanks, bottled in high spring and made ready for drinking at the beginning of summer." In short, the wine sees no wood.

Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani runs from about $13 up to $27 at retail, the average price (per Wine Searcher Pro) being about $17.

Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani: Tasting Impressions

This Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani was clearly the best Dolcetto we have yet found (though our Dolcetto exploration is not quite vast). While Dolcetto does not seem to have a varietal uniqueness that shrieks out at one, the wine as a whole was quite good.

It possessed a somewhat rich-feeling roundness, with plenty of dark-red fruit and a nice acid balance. Drinking it in the fourth year after vintage, we still found noticeable (and pleasing) tannins, so the shibboleth of "doesn't age" seems shot down, at least in this example: this sturdy fellow could well have benefitted from at least another year or two in the bottle.

To be honest, while this was a solid, pleasing wine, and one we can and will repeat, it does not inspire one to at once send telegrams to all one's friends. It lacks significant defects, and indeed has points of attraction, but it doesn't make one sit up and exclaim. A good, virtuous Italian red, respectable and satisfactory. Recommended.

Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani: Other Opinions

On CellarTracker.

On Wine Searcher's Tasting Notes page.

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