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Wine is as good as life to a man, if it be drunk moderately: what life is then to a man that is without wine? for it was made to make men glad.
—Ecclesiasticus, ch. 38, v. 1
(Our sample bottle was purchased by us at standard retail.)
George Skouras's eponymous winery was founded in 1986, and, unsurprisingly, focuses on Greek varietals. This wine is their monovarietal Moscofilero bottling (they also do some blends using Moscofilero). Note, incidentally, that the grape (and wine) are also commonly spelled "Moschofilero", and, less commonly, "Moscophilero" or "Moschophilero"; Skouras opts for the simplest form.
Skouras Moscofilero is quite widely available at retail, with bottle prices running from about $12 up to $20, and averaging $15.
Skouras seems to be the consensus choice of critics for Moscofilero, and in our (limited) experience that seems a valid judgement. We notice that while the spectrum of posters on CellarTracker rate the wine as what we interpret as somewhat above average, the professional critics are rather gushier in their praise. Our own experience was more in line with the CellarTracker posters: a good, pleasing wine, but not something you send telegrams home about.
Possibly the best part of the drinking experience was a mild orange quality that sort of played peekaboo, now noticeable, now faint to vanishing—and not a simple progression either way as we went through the bottle, but rather a continuing oscillation. Beyond that was a medium to light body with acceptable but not dominant acidity and, in both nose and taste, general floral notes.
We seem often to find in whites rather less than professional reviewers, and we sometimes wonder if the bottles one gets at retail (and this is not associated with any particular retailer) have really received optimum storage; with light or delicate whites, a dose of undue warmth in storage (just to mention one possible issue) can materially diminish quality. That sort of possibility is especially worrisome if the vintage is not the very latest year but is, as it so often is with retail offerings, one year back. Nonetheless, all we can do is report what we experienced. Perhaps another bottle some time will be different (and if it is, we will update these notes).
Summing up, though this is terribly cliché, sipping this wine makes one feel one should be sitting outdoors on a sunny afternoon at a white-painted wrought-iron café table overlooking the Mediterranean, with just enough soft breeze to keep one comfortable as one enjoys the wine and life in general. Obviously, recommended.
OK, this is the update. Holy Bottle Variation, Batman! The last couple of bottles have well lived up to the reviewers' hype. Our that-evening notes read: "Very reminescent of a Gros Manseng or even a Sauvignon Blanc, well flavored, nicely balanced, some complexity, a modest minerality, and a wonderful overall impression." We also got that desireable little hint of a sea-water tang that one hopes for in Atlantic-coast white wines. Now highly recommended.
On CellarTracker.
On Wine Searcher's Tasting Notes page.
Of some major wine-review sites:
(April 2013), 92 points:
The 2012 Moscofilero, at 12.5% alcohol, is ripe and fruity this year, showing fine solidity and very tasty fruit. It is richer and more exuberant than last year’s version, but it still tastes of tank and purity. It is quite delicious. In its youth, it needed some air to show its best. After an hour or so of aeration, when it fleshed out in the glass, it became more intense and it proved that there was indeed enough underlying acidity and minerality to cut through the baby fat and remind me that this was in fact Moschofilero. This vintage is never going to be viewed as one on the 'structured' side of the equation for Moschofilero. With this bottling (less so the Salto, its sibling also reviewed this issue), it leans more to 'sex appeal,' not something I often say with this grape. Stylistic preferences aside, it worked well. George Skouras, calling it 'an absolutely exceptional and unusual year for Moscofilero.' This should hold a few years, but it will always be great when young and fresh.
(2012), 90 points, in top 100:
A rapierlike white, delivering apple, pear and grapefruit flavors flanked by plenty of mineral and slate notes. Ripe orange accents linger as plenty of spicy hints mark the vibrant, long-lasting finish.
(September 2013), ?? points:
Pure, with spiced peach, gooseberry, wild cherry and McIntosh apple flavors that are crunchy and concentrated. Exhibits bracing acidity on the finish, featuring loads of spice and melon notes, showing an accent of smoke.
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