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Wine is as good as life to a man, if it be drunk moderately: what life is then to a man that is without wine? for it was made to make men glad.
—Ecclesiasticus, ch. 38, v. 1
(Our sample bottle was purchased by us at standard retail.)
Nero D'Avola is a Sicilian red, one of several grape types closely associated with the island, most or all of which are said to benefit greatly from the (obviously, considering Mount Etna) volcanic soil.
We have long considered Valle dell'Acate's "Case Ibidini" so-called "entry-level" Nero [now "Tenuta Ibidini"] our favorite of this kind. Their somewhat upscale "Il Moro" retails at from about $18 to about $24, averaging $21.
Too many winemakers in Sicily today are pushing the island's old, established wines into a new "internationalized" (the caustic might say "Parkerized") style, wherein the varietal characteristics that make the wines what they are—or should be—are minimized by the winemaker so that a sort of close duplicate of Cab Sauvignon (or Chardonnay or Sauv Blanc or some other type that every illiterate bozo will recognize) emerges from the process. The wiser winemakers know that if you want to compete with every "international" wine out there, you are at much worse odds than if you offer something honestly distinctive, but wisdom has never been a quality in oversupply mode.
What we look for in a Nero D'Avola is that almost charcoal-dust sort of background, from which, ideally, will arise a muted dark-cherry fruit quality. Fortunately, Valle dell'Acate has not fallen into the "internationalization" trap, and this wine delivers what is wanted. It is basically just what it seems: a slightly upscale rendition of their entry-level Nero. It is a bit crisper and brighter (better acids?), and the fruit just a tad better defined, but it is still unmistakably a Nero D'Avola and nothing else.
While this delightful wine now moves into the position of being our favorite Nero (under $20), we feel that their "Case Ibidini" line remains useful as well, particularly with strongly flavored food that wants a sound rustic wine. Both that and this "Il Moro" are highly recommended.
On CellarTracker.
On Wine Searcher's Tasting Notes page.
Of some major wine-review sites:
(May 2014), 88 points:
The 2010 Nero d’Avola Il Moro shows lively varietal character with charred earth, roasted pistachio nut, wild dill, green olive, hummus and bright cherry fruit. Il Moro offers a very clear portrait of some of the most distinguishing aromas inherent in this Sicilian grape. The tannins are soft and smooth and the wine closes with good acidity
(June 2011), 90 points:
The 2008 Il Moro shows the darker side of Nero D'Avola in its dark wild cherries, flower, leather and licorice. It offers excellent length and fine overall balance. A final last of ripe, juicy plums punctuates the finish. The Moro was aged in stainless steel. Anticipated maturity: 2011 - 2014. This is a superb set of wines from Valle dell'Acate. Not only are the wines delicious, the best bottles deliver incredible value as well. The estate uses only their best plots for the Valle dell'Acate label, while the vineyards in the plains are used for the entry-level Case Ibidini range.
(April 2009), 89 points:
The 2005 Il Moro (100% Nero d’Avola) presents the more delicate, ethereal side to this bottling. The wine reveals pretty dark red fruit, flowers, spices and minerals in a feminine, restrained style that lacks some of the sheer dazzle of the 2006. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted from Valle dell’Acate. A number of these wines are priced below or around $25 and are terrific values.
(2007 vintage), 86 points
(2005 vintage), 89 points
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This page was last modified on Tuesday, 22 December 2020, at 8:44 pm Pacific Time.