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Cocci Grifoni "Colle Vecchio" Offida Pecorino

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Cocci Grifoni "Colle Vecchio" Offida Pecorino: a Review

Wine is as good as life to a man, if it be drunk moderately: what life is then to a man that is without wine? for it was made to make men glad.
    —Ecclesiasticus, ch. 38, v. 1

(Our sample bottle was purchased by us at standard retail.)

About Cocci Grifoni "Colle Vecchio" Offida Pecorino

Guido Cocci Grifoni is credited with saving the Pecorino grape from virtual extinction; like so many interesting regional types, it happens to be a finicky producer, and so was abaodoned by growers who never did much with it. Cocci Grifoni's work eventually led to the grape's getting first DOC then the higher DOCG status; in fact, the family has written an entire book on the topic (La Riscoperta del Pecorino, "The Rediscovery of Pecorino").

This bottling is a single-vineyard effort, from deep, mixed clay soils. The maker claims that the wine's aging potential is over a decade. Given its big (for a white) alcohol content of 14%, that is plausible. Of the grape, Jancis Robinson says only "Marches specialty of Italy's east coast making ever-decreasing quantities [a dated remark] of firm, characterful wine." The wine is aged at least four months in steel, then at least six months in bottle; it sees no wood.

Cocci Grifoni "Colle Vecchio" Offida Pecorino seems somewhat scarce in the U.S. market, but at least one big national retailer carries it. Prices, when it can be found, run from about $15 up to $22, with the average (per Wine Searcher Pro) at $15.

Cocci Grifoni "Colle Vecchio" Offida Pecorino: Tasting Impressions

This was a wine hard to describe. It had no no crisp acids, no rich fruit, no minerality; yet it was not a bland nothing: there was a vaguely, um, herbal? quality, with a very faint peek-a-boo overtone of light lemon. The body was medium, actually bordering on viscous.

It's certainly a wine you have to pay attention to if you're going to get out of it whatever is in it. We found it perhaps unexciting, but capable of some modest pleasure. It was not, to be honest, one we will likely repeat, but we did not feel we wasted time drinking it. Considering that this is supposed to be the premier maker of this varietal, it'll proably be a good while before we sample another specimen.

Cocci Grifoni "Colle Vecchio" Offida Pecorino: Other Opinions

On CellarTracker.

On Wine Searcher's Tasting Notes page.

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This page was last modified on Sunday, 17 October 2021, at 2:02 am Pacific Time.