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Wine is as good as life to a man, if it be drunk moderately: what life is then to a man that is without wine? for it was made to make men glad.
—Ecclesiasticus, ch. 38, v. 1
(Our sample bottle was purchased by us at standard retail.)
Like most (but not all) Txakolina wines, this is a blend of several grapes; the dominant, however (at 85%, though that varies with vintage), is Hondarribi Zuri; the rest is 10% Riesing and 5% Folle Blanche, aka Mune Mahatsa in Basque country. (We assume that this is the Hondarribi Zuri Zalla, which is the "official" Hondarribi Zuri, and not the less-common Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia grape—yes, it can get confusing.) That is the grape known in France as "Courbu Blanc" (while Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia is the French grape Petit Courbu, both kinds being quite rare as dominant grapes outside of the Basque country whence Txakolina wines).
Like almost all Txakolina wines, this is a low-alcohol wine, checking in at 12% (in some vintages, 12½%). It comes from the Chacolí de Bizkaiko Txakolina appellation, near the Bay of Biscay ("Bizkaiko" = "Biscay"). It is fermented in stainless steel, typically with three to four weeks on the lees.
Bodegas Berroja Berroia Bizkaiko Txakolina has moderate availability in the U.S., with several retailers including a couple of major nationals. Prices range from about $18 up to $23.
Unlike most Txakolina wines, this one was still, not pétillant. It had all the the characteristics of a white Txakolina: decided crispness, decided minerality, and some citrus-fruit nose and taste (lemon-lime in quality).
If you weren't yet aware of Txakolina wines, you really should be: they are reasonably priced (formerly cheap, but now they're a fad) and deliver reliable pleasure drunk alone or wherever one wants acidic crispness that is not perhaps so unrelieved as a Muscadet usually offers.
As Txakolina wines go, this one was good—we haven't hit an unsatisfactory one yet—though not the very best we've had. We do recommend it, because it is good drinking; but given a choice (and remember, these things are subjective), we'd opt for a Zudugarai "Amats" Getariako. But, again, this Berroia Bizkaiko Txakolina is recommended.
On CellarTracker.
On Wine Searcher's Tasting Notes page.
Of some major wine-review sites:
(2010 vintage), 89 points:
Bodegas Berroja’s pale straw-colored 2010 Berroia is a blend of 85% Hondarribi Zuri with the balance Riesling and Folle Blanche. This enticing effort receives a nice aromatic lift from its Riesling component along with floral, mineral, green apple, and saline notes. Crisp, savory, and well-balanced.
(2009 vintage), 90 points:
Bodegas Berroja’s 2009 Berroia is composed of 90% Hondarribi Zuri (indigenous to Txakoli) with the balance Folle Blanche and Riesling. The 2009 vintage was near ideal in the region and the wine displays a lovely perfume of mineral, sea salt, lime, and spring flowers. Crisp, vibrant, and focused, it has excellent length and a refreshing finish.
(2008 vintage), 90 points:
The 2008 Berroioa is a blend of 90% Hondarribi Zuri, 6% Folle Blanche, and 4% Riesling raised in stainless steel. Medium straw-colored with a slight amber tint, it exhibits an enticing nose of spring flowers, mineral, apple, and anise. Round on the palate with good acidity, the wine has excellent grip, balance, and length. It is an excellent value in Txakoli.
(2007 vintage), 90 points
(2005 vintage), 90 points
(2013 vintage), 90 points:
Pale, bright straw. Vibrant mineral-laced citrus pith and green apple aromas show very good clarity and a hint of white flowers. Clean and linear on the palate, offering juicy lemon/ lime and honeysuckle flavors and a touch of bitter quince. Finishes spicy and long, leaving a pear skin note behind.
(2012 vintage), 90 points:
Light yellow. Spicy aromas of pear, lemon pith, fresh herbs and chalky minerals. Very dry, with incisive citrus and underripe orchard fruit flavors and a kick of white pepper. Uncompromising and focused, with strong closing bite and citrussy persistence.
(2011 vintage), 92 points:
Bright yellow-gold. Potent aromas of pear skin, quinine and agave, with a bright mineral topnote. Dry and deeply pitched orchard and citrus fruit flavors show impressive clarity and power, picking up a floral nuance with air. Closes sappy and very long, with excellent focus and lingering minerality. This isn't your father's Txakoli, but then again your father probably never even heard of Txakoli, unless he's Basque.
(2010 vintage), 90 points:
Bright yellow. Aromas of nectarine, pear, and white flowers, with a spicy overtone. Juicy and expansive, offering energetic orchard fruit flavors and a touch of bitter citrus pith. This is nervy but also has some heft. Finishes sappy, focused and nicely persistent.
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