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Wine is as good as life to a man, if it be drunk moderately: what life is then to a man that is without wine? for it was made to make men glad.
—Ecclesiasticus, ch. 38, v. 1
(Our sample bottle was purchased by us at standard retail.)
Katogi & Stella "Katogi Averoff" Xinomavro rests on stirred lees for two months, then is oak-aged for ten months (or more). The resultant wine comes in at 13% alcohol.
Katogi & Stella "Katogi Averoff" Xinomavro is reasonably well distributed in the U.S. market, with some major retailers carrying it. It retails at from $15 to $25, averaging roughly $15.
This vintner started out as "Katogi Averoff"; katogi is Grek for "cellar", and Evangelos Averoff made his first wines (in the late 1950s) literally in the cellar of his home. In 2001, his successors merged with the Strofilia winery, and the new company is Katogi & Strofilia. Thery continue to name this wine as it was always known: "Katogi Averoff Xinomavro".
This is perhaps the nicest Xynomavro we have yet run across. It is remarkably light in color, reminescent of, say, a Nebbiolo. It has a rather rich nose, redolent of plums and other dark blue/black fruit, and the taste follows through. It has a further quality, hard to put in words but distinctive and pleasing. The tannins were perceptible and acceptable, and the acids seemed in good balance.
Xynomavro seems to us to make a pleasing wine, but not one with such distinct varietal qualities that one at once says, "Ah yes, Xynomavro". This one came closest (so far) to showing some individual character. We found it quite enjoyable, and will be repeating it. Recommended.
On CellarTracker.
On Wine Searcher's Tasting Notes page.
Of some major wine-review sites:
(2008 vintage), ?? points:
The 2008 Xinomavro Averoff was aged for approximately a year in barrel and then held back for late release. Classically earthy on the nose, with a touch of mushroom, it has an elegant demeanor, with a modest mid-palate and very bright acidity around the edges. Purity of fruit is a hallmark here. It has no artifice. Tannins do pop out with air, so don’t hesitate to cellar this as it may well improve a bit with time. With air, this improved notably, fleshing out and showing better texture. It needed to do so, because it was a bit thin and sharp early on. This should make a great food wine, but note that it is not going to be your casual, easy sipper. It should seem like a lot of wine for the price, though, if you like its style (yes, traditional Nebbiolo admirers – I’m speaking to you.)
(2007 vintage), 90 points:
The 2007 XINOMAVRO is well structured and tightly wound, crisp and penetrating with, perhaps, just a touch of a high toned nuance. Mostly, it is an earthy and pointed Xinomavro that is not fully evolved, but in this vintage it is still rather more expressive than the 2005, although not perhaps ultimately as intense and focused. I would give the nod to the ’05, but this has its merits. As it airs out, it develops a lovely, ripe complexity, mingling its earthiness with acidity. The next day, it is fully ready, the acidity and earthiness mingling nicely, the tannins more restrained, the texture more silky. Earth and forest floor mingle with a slight sweet note on the finish.
(2007 vintage), 90 points:
Pure and refined, offering sweet cherry and spice flavors, with notes of raspberry, mineral and spice. Well-structured, showing fresh, vibrant acidity, with a lush finish of smoke, cedar and sandalwood.
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