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Retsina is not a grape, but rather a wine-making treatment originating in Greece. Retsina wines are wines—virtually always whites—that have been flavored with pine resin. The custom presumably arose from the technique that the ancient Greeks, who were major wine producers and exporters, used to seal the amphorae in which they shipped wine so as to make the containers air-tight (to avoid oxidation spoilage). Over time, the taste the resin imparted to the wines became a thing desired in itself rather than accepted as a necessity.
For a long time (in the modern era), Retsina was looked down on as cheap, trashy, vile-tasting rotgut; and frankly, the stuff being made then—and, sad to say, to a great extent even today—deserved that reputation. But…the most recent generation of Greek winemakers has given us several who are determined that Retsina can be made as rather good wine, and they have set out to prove that. Many critics seem to feel that they have successfully made their point.
These new-wave Retsinas are made from, to begin with, inherently good base wines (most often Savatiano but sometimes Roditis or Athiri, and occasionally a few others as lesser ingredients to a blend). Then, the resination treatment is done with a light hand, so you don’t end up with an alcoholic version of Pine-Sol.
If you have never had a Retsina, or recall some early dire experiences, give one or two of the new-wave Retsinas a try.
Factoid: The name “Retsina” derives simply from the Greek word for “resin”.
“Modern Retsina is made following the same winemaking techniques of white wine or rosé with the exception of small pieces of Aleppo pine resin added to the must during fermentation…Nowadays…much less resin is used than traditionally called for. Such wines lack the pungent ‘whiff of turpentine’ streak of old, and are considered ideal accompaniments to such strong-tasting local cuisine as pastırma or garlic dips, which are often consumed as mezes with alcoholic beverages.”
“[T]there are many modern examples which are well-made and full of character without being rough around the edges…Their supporters are pushing for a classification system to distinguish these higher quality wines from the cheap, heavily-resinated efforts. The wine’s affinity with an array of strong-flavored foods as found in meze or tapas is being promoted by supporters.”
“A trickle of producers is demonstrating that if retsina is made thoughtfully and carefully, from grapes grown conscientiously, it can be a delicious wine that goes beautifully not only with a wide variety of Greek foods, but with many other assertive cuisines as well. The producers who have embraced retsina are not trying to transform it into a profound wine, a collectible or a bottle worth aging to show its complexities. Instead, they want to turn retsina into a cultural tradition of which modern Greeks can be proud.”
“Aromas of linseed oil and lime peel lead into flavors of apples and roses, a perfume that ends on a pine-and-lime, saline finish. Retsina wines made with Assyrtiko grapes tend to be more angular in their style (but age longer) whereas, Retsina wines made with Savatiano grapes have a more generous taste with ripe apple and peach flavors, as well as an oily texture on the palate.”
“This process results in a wine which typically tastes of apple and peach while leaving you with a slightly oily mouthfeel and hefty aroma of pine…In a very general sense, the wine has a mild taste to it, neither too sweet or too bitter, and it typically has a whiff of pine and notes of lemon with a mild touch of salinity. Retsina made from Savatiano grapes, for example, has apple and peach flavors while other grapes will impart their own fruitiness to the wine.”
“This white wine looks and even smells like a typical white wine, though you may also experience a light aroma of resin. Even though the wine-making and storing methods have improved from 2,000 years ago, the aroma and flavor of pine resin is still infused as it is has become an acquired taste among the Greeks.”
“Crisp and herbal, these wines pair effortlessly with dishes containing rosemary, mint and dill…Those who have tried retsina years ago and vowed to eschew it forever, or have yet to discover it, should give these updated versions a sip.”
“[Modern Greek winemakers] have taken on this rather cantankerous wine, experimented with it and performed a daring but successful leap of faith. They have achieved harmony between the varied fruity tones of the grape and joined it with the distinctive yet discreet flavor of pine resin, underlined with hints of mastic gum, rosemary and sage, the slight bitterness of the pine needle and a peppery finish. Good-quality retsina features a balsamic quality imbued into the wine by the pine resin which nonetheless allows the grape aromas to come through. An almost indiscernible bitterness gives it a refreshing finish, as though the wine were aerated, making it the perfect companion for the heavier or more complex traditional Greek dishes.”
“At first, just like blue cheese or fino sherry, the taste of retsina can be disorienting. But don’t let this distract you from giving it a real chance. Thanks to a handful of great producers who’ve decided to revamp its reputation by putting quality first, retsina has never been better. Old is getting new again.”
“[T]he higher-end retsinas are made with carefully grown grapes, a very small amount of the finest resin, and with the use of modern winemaking techniques…These interesting wines, bound to tradition but not trapped in time, give proof that, when made with care, retsina is capable of reaching new heights. They are food-friendly wines that deserve to be celebrated and enjoyed at the table.”
“High quality retsina can be fabulous with food, for example anything fried, especially calamari or crispy fried fish. As Greek wines increase in popularity hopefully more of these high quality retsinas…will start becoming more widely available. I am happy to know now what all the excitement about retsina is all about.”
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Some Descriptions of Retsina Wines
“Modern Retsina is made following the same winemaking techniques of white wine or rosé with the exception of small pieces of Aleppo pine resin added to the must during fermentation…Nowadays…much less resin is used than traditionally called for. Such wines lack the pungent ‘whiff of turpentine’ streak of old, and are considered ideal accompaniments to such strong-tasting local cuisine as pastırma or garlic dips, which are often consumed as mezes with alcoholic beverages.”
“[T]there are many modern examples which are well-made and full of character without being rough around the edges…Their supporters are pushing for a classification system to distinguish these higher quality wines from the cheap, heavily-resinated efforts. The wine’s affinity with an array of strong-flavored foods as found in meze or tapas is being promoted by supporters.”
“A trickle of producers is demonstrating that if retsina is made thoughtfully and carefully, from grapes grown conscientiously, it can be a delicious wine that goes beautifully not only with a wide variety of Greek foods, but with many other assertive cuisines as well. The producers who have embraced retsina are not trying to transform it into a profound wine, a collectible or a bottle worth aging to show its complexities. Instead, they want to turn retsina into a cultural tradition of which modern Greeks can be proud.”
“Aromas of linseed oil and lime peel lead into flavors of apples and roses, a perfume that ends on a pine-and-lime, saline finish. Retsina wines made with Assyrtiko grapes tend to be more angular in their style (but age longer) whereas, Retsina wines made with Savatiano grapes have a more generous taste with ripe apple and peach flavors, as well as an oily texture on the palate.”
“This process results in a wine which typically tastes of apple and peach while leaving you with a slightly oily mouthfeel and hefty aroma of pine…In a very general sense, the wine has a mild taste to it, neither too sweet or too bitter, and it typically has a whiff of pine and notes of lemon with a mild touch of salinity. Retsina made from Savatiano grapes, for example, has apple and peach flavors while other grapes will impart their own fruitiness to the wine.”
“This white wine looks and even smells like a typical white wine, though you may also experience a light aroma of resin. Even though the wine-making and storing methods have improved from 2,000 years ago, the aroma and flavor of pine resin is still infused as it is has become an acquired taste among the Greeks.”
“Crisp and herbal, these wines pair effortlessly with dishes containing rosemary, mint and dill…Those who have tried retsina years ago and vowed to eschew it forever, or have yet to discover it, should give these updated versions a sip.”
“[Modern Greek winemakers] have taken on this rather cantankerous wine, experimented with it and performed a daring but successful leap of faith. They have achieved harmony between the varied fruity tones of the grape and joined it with the distinctive yet discreet flavor of pine resin, underlined with hints of mastic gum, rosemary and sage, the slight bitterness of the pine needle and a peppery finish. Good-quality retsina features a balsamic quality imbued into the wine by the pine resin which nonetheless allows the grape aromas to come through. An almost indiscernible bitterness gives it a refreshing finish, as though the wine were aerated, making it the perfect companion for the heavier or more complex traditional Greek dishes.”
“At first, just like blue cheese or fino sherry, the taste of retsina can be disorienting. But don’t let this distract you from giving it a real chance. Thanks to a handful of great producers who’ve decided to revamp its reputation by putting quality first, retsina has never been better. Old is getting new again.”
“[T]he higher-end retsinas are made with carefully grown grapes, a very small amount of the finest resin, and with the use of modern winemaking techniques…These interesting wines, bound to tradition but not trapped in time, give proof that, when made with care, retsina is capable of reaching new heights. They are food-friendly wines that deserve to be celebrated and enjoyed at the table.”
“High quality retsina can be fabulous with food, for example anything fried, especially calamari or crispy fried fish. As Greek wines increase in popularity hopefully more of these high quality retsinas…will start becoming more widely available. I am happy to know now what all the excitement about retsina is all about.”