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(Synonyms: Catarratto Rouge, Niuru, Perricone Nero, Pignateddu, Pignatello, Tuccarino.)
Perricone is an ancient red-wine grape originating in northwestern Sicily, which remains its home today. We say “ancient” and “originating”, though some say Perricone was brought to Sicily by the Greeks more than two thousand years ago—but no one knows for sure. Anyway, it’s been Sicilian for a very long time.
A typical well-made monovarietal Perricone will have firm tannins and slightly bitter flavors of dark fruit (cherries, blackberries, and the like) and dark chocolate, with perhaps overlays of vanilla and spices. The wines have definite tannins, and can be aged to their improvement. As with so many Italian wines, there is a hint of bitterness in the finish (a quality Italians prize).
Factoid: Perricone was long seen as a blending partner with Nero D’Avola, but is now—like many “re-discovered” grapes, especially in Italy—becoming a force on its own.
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Some Descriptions of Perricone Wines
“According to wine expert Oz Clarke in Sicily Perricone is used to make full bodied, deeply colored, highly alcoholic wines.”
“Despite bearing no relation, Perricone is often described as being quite similar to Barbera, with high acidity and characteristics of red berries, earth and herbs. However, Perricone has strong, noticeable tannins that can accentuate the bitterness many people find on the palate of these wines. It is tamed in this regard by Nero d’Avola, its traditional blending partner, but Perricone has the potential to make interesting, highly aromatic wines by itself.”
“What I tasted was incredible. In Sicily’s roster of red wines, very few play the part of the Tannin Monster, possibly because Sicilian cuisine does not require a wine with such grip. Perricone has it, as well as some of the most alluring aromas I’ve encountered.”
“The Perricone grape gives a ruby-red wine, a characteristic vinous aroma of the original grapes; dry, fairly full-bodied and harmonious.”
“Until relatively recently, to find monovarietal Perricone wines was no easy task. Frankly, it’s still not easy. But it is getting easier…Although somewhat different in style—actually, let us say different in personality—these [various Perricone] wines are muscular in their own way, intense, complex, sophisticated, wonderful expressions of what Perricone can be all about. I say ‘can be’ (all about) because, at some level, Perricone winemaking today is still finding its direction, that is to say, broad agreement on how the wines should taste and be made has not yet been reached…If producers of Perricone choose to exalt its uniqueness in bottlings of well-made monovarietal / near monovarietal wines, and avoid obscuring Perricone’s character in overwhelming, unauthentic blends, Perricone may well prove a Sicilian point fort in the market.”
“Perricone is a full bodied and intense red wine, that expresses at its best after a few years in bottles. Very complex to the nose, it generally shows a spicy character where juniper and black pepper are the dominant flavors. To the palate, spices are balanced by intense fruity notes of sour cherry and blackberry, plums and mulberries, plus a green fine herb touch where rosemary and oregano may add amazing freshness to the overall balance. Good quality Perricone wines are very elegant—especially in the best vintages—with a solid tannic base gently softened by a good alcohol degree and completed by a long dry finish, sometimes recalling toasted almonds, dark chocolate or roasted coffee.”
“Due to its full body and assertive tannins, Perricone is largely used for blending with lighter Sicilian grapes. However, with careful grape selection, low yields and skilled winemaking techniques, drinking 100% Perricone is a treat.…The color is dark ruby with a purple cast. The aromas are heady with red berries, blackberry and floral. The palate is layered with dark raspberry, blackberry, dark plum, fennel and hints of vanilla and spice. Pepper and cocoa linger on a long finish. This is a full-bodied, expressive wine with soft tannins and a velvety mouth-feel. Allow 20 to 30 minutes for the wine to open prior to serving.rdquo;
“When picked ripe, Perricone produces wines that are high in acidity, with distinctive tannic backbones that feature ripe red fruit, dry herbal notes and earth, with a lingering bitter note on the finish…The wine is dark red, offering up intense blackberry notes along with mulberry and milk chocolate. On the palate, there are more blackberries, along with dark fruit and milk chocolate. The wine has good acidity, but still shows the tannic edge that Perricone is known for. The finish is exceptionally long. It’s drinkable now, especially with food, but would definitely improve with a few more years of aging.”
“The Perricone grape variety originated from western Sicilia. In the past it was mostly noted for full bodied, bitter and alcoholic wines. But with today’s farming methods, often organic growing, low yields and early picking (or earlier, as it ripens very late) it has more appeal for modern palates, and still with high antioxidant qualities.”
“On its best day, Perricone is reminiscent of Barbera, a wine that is generally higher in acidity, with red berry notes, subtle earthiness and herbaceous undertones. However, on a not-so-good day, Perricone’s assertive tannins tend to accentuate its inherent bitterness and the wine falls somewhat short.”
“100% Perricone wines are dark ruby red with purplish hints. When decanted, they emit aromas of bramble fruit balanced by a peppery earthiness. To the taste, Perricones are well-structured and velvety with plenty of fruit and a relatively high alcohol content.”