The Sangiovese Grape

(Synonyms: Brunelletto, Brunello, Brunello di Montalcino, Cacchiano, Calabrese, Chiantino, Corinto Nero, Guarnacciola, Liliano, Montepulciano, Morellino, Morellino di Scansano, Negrello, Nerello, Nerello Campotu, Niella, Nielluccio, Primaticcio, Prugnolo Dolce, Prugnolo Gentile, Puttanella, San Gioveto, San Zoveto, Sangiogheto, Sangiovese Grosso, Sangiovese Piccolo, Sangioveto, Scanzano, Tabernello, Toustain, Tuccanese, Vigna del Conte, Vigna Maggio)

Background

Sangiovese, the informing grape of Chianti wines, is a red-wine grape originating in Italy, probably from the Roman era, and possibly in the region of Tuscany; it and Nebbiolo and Aglianico are the three great red-wine grapes of Italy, and among the best in the world. Indeed, it is now widely considered one of the dozen and a half or so “Noble wine grapes” of the world. Today, it is grown throughout the wine-making world, but the foremost specimens are still held to be those from Tuscany.

The province of Tuscany comprises four appellations of significance for Sangiovese-based wines. The best-known is Chianti, but also quite important are the wines of Montalcino and of the small and little-known Carmignano. Each of those areas produces a class of big wines and a class of what might be called “little brother” wines. The classes are:

• Montalcino - Brunello di Montalcino is the big brother here, and the most esteemed Sangiovese wine out there; its little brother is Rosso di Montalcino.

• Montepulciano - Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is the big brother; its little brother is Rosso di Montepulciano.

• Chianti - used to come in two classes, normal (“Annatto”) and Riserva, but there is now a third atop those, Gran Selezione; note especially that unless a Chianti is labelled “Chianti Classico”, it is a pale imitation made outside the heart of the Chianti appellation.

• Carmignano - Carmignano wines included admixtures of non-Italian grape types—notably Cabernet Sauvignon—long before any clever winemaker dreamed up the designation “Super Tuscans”; their “little brother” appellation is “Barco Reale”.

Wine laws world round are—by and large—of, by, and for imbeciles. Italian wine laws regulating Tuscan wine, for example, forbade wines labelled Chianti to have over 70% Sangiovese, and moreover to include some local “junk” types. In frustrated response, progressive Tuscan winemakers decided to just go ahead and make their first-class wines as they wanted, then labelled them, in perfect conformity with the law, as “vino da tavola” (“table wine”), the lowest grade under Italian label laws, usually signifying little other than “wine; made from grapes”. They reckoned, rightly, that their names and prestige would sell the wines, which were marketed as “super Tuscans”, a phrase that still stands (even though the laws were eventually amended, presumably sheepishly, to allow 100% Sangiovese bottlings to use the Chianti name, many winemakers continue the “vino da tavola” tradition as a sort of raised middle finger to the wine authorities.)

Sangiovese is a wine for which the particular clone used is especially important, and there are fourteen recognized clones. Brunello is one such, and probably the most prestigious (and hence expensive); Prugnolo Gentile and Sangiovese di Lamole are other respected clones.

Though Sangiovese is, as noted, now widely grown, perhaps the only area outside Italy to produce competitively excellent bottlings on a widespread basis is Washington State, which has the needed climate plus a dryness that minimizes Sangiovese’s vineyard tendency to rot (owing to its thin skins). There is, though, also some respectable product from California, where Italian varieties are enjoying renewed interest. In Italy, Chianti was long regarded as a poor type of wine, and Americans of a certain age will remember the inexpensive and usually dire specimens that came (and still come) in straw-wrapped flasks. Nowadays, while cheapo Chianti is still made and sold, the overall quality level has soared (and the bottles are normal).

Sangiovese wines are typically somewhat light in color and in body, and fairly acidic. Newer vinification techniques have added some body weight and “texture” to Sangiovese, and so has judicious use of oak aging. Carefully chosen subsidiary wines used in blends also make for excellent results, though care has to be taken not to overwhelm the Sangiovese nature.

Older “classic” Sangiovese wines show distinct notes of cherry, especially bitter cherry, plus herbal overtones. More modern versions tend to show much more fruit, with darker “purple” qualities (plum, mulberry), as well as the typical red-wine complexities such as tar and tobacco.

Factoid: The grape name Sangiovese derives from Latin sanguis Jovis, “blood of Jove”. Some reckon that it was first cultivated by the Etruscans.

Some Descriptions of Sangiovese Wines

Wikipedia
“Young Sangiovese has fresh fruity flavors of strawberry and a little spiciness, but it readily takes on oaky, even tarry, flavors when aged in barrels. While not as aromatic as other red wine varieties such as Pinot noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, Sangiovese often has a flavor profile of sour red cherries with earthy aromas and tea leaf notes. Wines made from Sangiovese usually have medium-plus tannins and high acidity…Blending can have a pronounced effect on enhancing or tempering the wine’s quality. The dominant nature of [often-used] Cabernet [Sauvignon] can sometimes have a disproportionate influence on the wine, even overwhelming Sangiovese character with black cherry, black currant, mulberry and plum fruit. Even percentages as low as 4 to 5% of Cabernet Sauvignon can overwhelm the Sangiovese if the fruit quality is not high.”
Stacy Slinkard, about.com
“Typically Sangiovese grapes make medium to full-bodied wines with tannin structure ranging from medium-soft to firm. Dominant flavors associated with Sangiovese derived wines include: cherry, plum, strawberry, cinnamon and vanilla. There is often a herbaceous quality associated with Sangiovese wines. As for acidity levels, Sangiovese leans towards medium to high acidity content. The finish can range from elegant to bitter.”
Wine Searcher
“Good-quality Sangiovese is prized for its high acid, firm tannins and balanced nature. Savory flavors of dark cherries and black stone fruit are characteristic, and may be backed by secondary notes of tomato leaf and dried herbs. The use of oak has become more popular and this coaxes richer flavors from the grapes, tending toward plum and wild raspberry.”
Monica Larner, Wine Enthusiast
“Sangiovese is a versatile grape that spans the entire length of the quality spectrum, from low-end Chianti to top-shelf Chianti Classico…Brunello di Montalcino [is the] highest expression of Sangiovese; made exclusively from the dark Sangiovese Grosso clone, it shows beautiful richness, intensity and complexity, with aromas of forest fruit, cola and spice. Brunello is released five years after the harvest and the Riserva requires an extra year of cellar aging…Once the noblest of all Tuscan wines, Vino Nobile is made with the Prugnolo Gentile clone. The wine is minimum 70% Sangiovese, with components of Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo. This region also offers a lesser wine called Rosso di Montepulciano and a top-shelf Riserva. The wines show dark, earthy characteristics, often with subtle overtones of dried herbs or blue flowers.”
wineaccess
“As Sangiovese is a fairly delicate variety in terms of the fragrances and flavors it offers, what ends up being added makes a major difference in the final profile of the wine. Climate and altitude also influence the nature of Sangiovese-based wines; wines made in hotter, drier parts of Southern Tuscany are fleshier than wines made in Chianti and other cooler, higher areas. With lesser clones and viticulture, Sangiovese tends to produce tannic wines, without great color. The best examples are highly aromatic, fragrant wines with nicely integrated tannic structure. If you are looking for wines that are 100% Sangiovese, your best bet are the wines from Montalcino, a pretty medieval hilltop town 25 miles south of Sienna. Here, wines are made from the Brunello grape, also known as Sangiovese Grosso, an especially high quality (and large) clone of the Sangiovese grape. These full-bodied and powerful wines, labeled Brunello di Montalcino, rank with Barolo among Italy’s most-ageworthy wines. Rosso di Montalcino, also grown in the same town, is also 100% Brunello, but results in a softer, fruitier wine that requires much less aging.”
Appellation America
“All that said, there are indeed common links in character across clonal variation. Sangiovese tends to be rather lightly-pigmented (the Brunello clone being a notable exception) and the wines—even younger examples—often cast a slight orange tinge at their margin in the glass. This characteristic can be a sly clue to experienced brown-baggers in blind tastings. Pronounced acidity is also an important common characteristic across clonal variation and even the most structured of Sangiovese wines have a firm acidic backbone. Other common descriptors for the aromatics of the variety often include prunes, dark cherry and earthy barnyard.”
Madeline Puckette, Wine Folly
“The Sangiovese grape is a bit of a chameleon; easily altering its genetics to fit the environment. There are many different mutations of the variety all over Italy, which results in very different tasting wines. From the delicate floral strawberry aromas of Montefalco Rosso to the intensely dark and tannic wines of Brunello di Montalcino, Sangiovese wine has something for everyone.…FRUIT: Tart Cherry, Red Plum, Strawberry, Fig. OTHER: Roasted Pepper, Tomato, Leather, Clay, Brick, Tobacco, Smoke, Oregano, Thyme, Dried Roses, Potpourri. OAK: Yes. Usually light oak aging in neutral oak barrels. TANNIN: High. ACIDITY: High. AGEABILITY: Yes. 4-7 years (normal) & 10-18 years (Brunello di Montalcino).…Sangiovese is savory. Because of its ability to be a chameleon, Sangiovese wines offer a wide range of tastes from very earthy and rustic–as is the case with many Chianti Classico–to round and fruit-forward. Regardless of where it’s grown, it always exhibits cherry flavors with more subtle notes of tomato. They next time you try a Sangiovese, dedicate yourself to sit and sniff it for a while. Over time you’ll find that aromas move towards dried cherries, figs and roses–especially if the wine is older.”
Total Wine
“Throughout Tuscany, Sangiovese produces wines that are crisp and lively with savory, cherry fruit flavors and soft to ripe tannins. The refined red-fruit flavors of better quality Sangiovese also contain complex flavors of earth, tobacco and coffee.”
Food & Wine
“Italian Sangioveses have vibrant acidity and substantial tannins, along with fresh cherry fruit and herbal scents. New World versions tend toward softer acidity and fleshier fruit.”
Cal-Italia
“Bright aromas and flavors of raspberries and strawberries with typical racy/lean acidity and mild tannins predominate in the lighter to medium-bodied Sangioveses. Darker, more robust and extracted wines with wild raspberry and violet nuances generally originate from cooler growing regions. Moderate tannins add to the fruitiness and naturally high acidity and give the wines additional complexity and length. The lighter styles of Sangiovese are best consumed within three years of their vintage. The bigger wines will improve for a decade as the aroma evolves to a complex bouquet of faded roses or violets, coffee, leather and cedar. The wine goes from bright deep garnet to a more brick-red. It softens and takes on a velvety texture with a rich, multi-layered complexity that echoes the nuances of the bouquet.”

Some Sangioveses to Try

Fortunately, there is a plethora of good-quality Sangiovese available at reasonable prices, two dozen or so—selection for the list took some effort.

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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