The Altesse Grape

(Synonyms: Anet, Fusette d’Ambérieu, Marestel, Plant d’Altesse, Prin Blanc, Roussette, Roussette de Montagnieu, Roussette de Seyssel, Roussette Haute)

Background

Altesse is a white-wine grape originating in the Savoy region of eastern France; it is also commonly known as (among other things) “Roussette”, though Roussette is properly the name of the wine and Altesse of the grape. Most bottlings will have both words on the label. While there are all sorts of stories about the grape—that it came from Cyprus via Hungary, that it is the same as or related to Furmint (DNA says No), and so on—most of the evidence suggests that the Savoy region of France, where it grows today, is where it originated.

The Savoy grows several grape types, including Altesse, that are grown little if at all anywhere else, and which make distinctive wines. Bottlings labelled Roussette de Savoie must, by French law, be 100% Altesse. The wines are typically quite dry, characterized by minerality and a nose described as of violet, “mountain herbs”, bergamot, honey, and hazelnut. (Saving the violet, our perceptions agree.) Some makers use oak, others do not. Some bottle the wines with a bit of residual sugar, but the best are quite dry.

Beyond basic Roussette, there are particular vineyard labellings that supposedly represent better wines when they appear on a label, those being Frangy, Marestel, Monterminod, and Monthoux. The supposed superiority comes not only from their siting and soil qualities, but also from some extra quality requirements (yield limits and minimum alcohol levels) for wines to be so labelled. Owing to high acidity, Roussettes characteristically age well.

Factoid: Besides Roussette de Savoie, there is a less-known type called Roussette de Bugey, also 100% Altesse.

Some Descriptions of Altesse Wines

Wikipedia
“Wines made from Altesse have exotic aromas, often together with citrus and herbs, and have good acidity. They are considered to age well.” (From the article on Roussette: “These dry white wines typically have a nose of violet and mountain herbs with flavors of minerals, bergamot, honey and hazelnut.”)
Wine Travel Guides
“An extremely underrated grape in terms of quality that is gradually gaining ground in Savoie though still covering a very small area. Altesse ripens fairly late and often benefits from conditions of an Indian summer. It gives good sugar levels and some successful experiments have been made with oak fermentation and ageing, but most wines are made in neutral tanks. Many of the wines are made in an off-dry style to compensate for the high acidity, but the best are generally dry and full-flavoured with stony, yellow fruit flavours and some floral character. The wines are sold as Roussette de Savoie and for many years the grape was erroneously named Roussette, so do not be surprised to find wines listed under this name on wine lists.”
Wine Exchange
“Altesse (also known as Roussette) is grown in the Savoie region of France where it makes wonderfully perfumed dry whites, with fresh acidity and some aging potential. The best examples exhibit good balance, and pair remarkably well with charcuterie and bivalves.”
Classe Wines
“Altesse grape Savoy wines are known for their good acidity and exotic aroma, usually a combination of herbs and citrus.”
Le Dom du Vin
“The wine’s high acidity gives it the potential to age. These dry white wines typically have a nose of violet and mountain herbs with flavors of minerals, bergamot, honey and hazelnut.”
About French Wine
“Roussette de Savoie is a well bred, full wine that is slightly mellow, with aromas of violet and flavors of bergamot, hazelnut and almond. It is at its best after aging for a few years (2 to 5 years).”
Wine-Pages
“Roussette de Savoie wines have a structure not unlike a light Chardonnay. They should be dry, light to medium weight, and a very few are oak fermented or matured. Aromas can include yellow stone fruit and a delicate floral character.”
Cool Vines
“Altesse, an indigenous grape variety from the French Alpine region of Savoie, produces deep, complex, and intensely mineral-driven wines.”
InterFrance
“They are dry white wines with undeniable finesse, slightly acidulous, but fruity.”
Wine Searcher
“Altesse is a late-ripening aromatic grape which produces wines with high acidity and good ageing potential. The wines have aromas of violet and flavors of bergamot, hazelnut and almond. The wine is medium to full-bodied and will develop in the bottle for up to five years.”
foodtourist.com
“These are dry, long-lasting wines often with a lot of acidity and with a characteristic smell of violets and hazelnuts.”

Some Altesses to Try

Altesse wines seem to be fading from the retail market, which is a shame. To list even a couple, we had to really stretch our criteria, especially concerning price/availability. Here’s what was left.

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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