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(Synonyms: Auvernat Gris, Beurot, Burgunder Roter, Friset, Fromenteau, Fromenteau Gris, Grauburgunder, Grauer Burgunder, Grauer Clevner, Griset, Kleiner Traminer, Malvoisie, Pinot Beurot, Pirosburgundi, Râjik, Ruländer, Rulandské Šedé, Rulandské Sivé, Sivi Pinot, Speyeren, Szürkebarát, Tokay)
Pinot Grigio, also widely known as Pinot Grigio (both Gris and Grigio meaning “grey”) is a white-wine grape originating in the Burgundy region of France, though now grown mostly in Italy. Though it is basically the same grape under both names, the stylings associated with each name are rather different—so much so as to effectively be two different varieties, as we will soon see. The grape is another of the several mutations from Pinot Noir, which is famously unstable genetically; as a recognized variety, it goes back to the early middle ages (by 1300, it had already travelled to Switzerland). Today, it is widely considered one of the dozen and a half or so “Noble wine grapes” of the world.
Both Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are today widely made across the wine-producing world, producing oceans of bland, indistinguishable plonk and the occasional bottling of more interest. To many casual wine drinkers, “pinot grigio” has become a loose synonym for any vague white wine. That is a shame, because the grape, treated with care, can do much better.
The “Pinot Grigio” styling emphasizes acidity and crispness, has a bit more alcohol, and is generally “leaner” and less fruit-forward than the Alsatian style. The “Pinot Gris” styling of the grape conversely tends at its best toward a characteristically Alsatian round, fairly rich, almost creamy style, wherein the acidity is not dominant and the alcohol is low. Neither is inherently better than the other: they simply fill different niches. It is best, as we remarked above, to consider them as almost two different wine types; and the name under which the wine is marketed is normally a reliable clue to its style.
In the U.S., it is the “Pinot Grigio” style that accounts for most of the dire plonk; as you will see below, the majority of introductory material about this grape tends to be aimed at folk who recognize it as “Pinot Grigio”.
(The grape is also fairly widely known in Germany under the synonym “Ruländer”; but that use usually—though not invariably—denotes a sweet wine.)
Factoid: The grape was reportedly a favorite of the Emperor Charles IV, who had cuttings imported to Hungary by Cistercian monks: the brothers planted the vines on the slopes of Badacsony bordering Lake Balaton in 1375. The vine soon after developed the name Szürkebarát meaning “grey monk”.
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Some Descriptions of Pinot Grigio Wines
“In Italy, Pinot grigio grapes are often harvested early to retain the refreshing acidity and minimize some of the overt-fruitiness of the variety, creating a more neutral flavor profile. This style is often imitated in other Old World wine regions, such as Germany where the grape is known as Ruländer…Wines made from [this grape] vary greatly and are dependent on the region and wine making style they are from…The Pinot grigio style of Italy is a light-bodied, often lean wine that is light in color with sometimes spritzy flavors that can be crisp and acidic.”
“In general, Pinot Grigio is a light-bodied, high-acid, delicate white, although the top producers turn out wines that have more of everything: more intense aromas, flavor and weight…. Yet the Italians dominate by virtue of amount: There's a lot more Grigio than Gris. This is one of the problems of Pinot Grigio, as a wine produced in mass quantities is by definition of little interest to connoisseurs…Then there’s the matter of all those truly ‘innocuous’ and ‘uninteresting’ wines. How many are there? Well, in the course of one month I probably tasted close to 60 Pinot Grigios and found that two-thirds could be described using those words. On the other hand, the other one-third of the wines were actually quite good.”
“The primary fruit flavors in Pinot Grigio are lime, lemon, pear, white nectarine and apple. Depending on where the grapes are grown, Pinot Grigio can take on faint honeyed notes; floral aromas like honeysuckle; and a saline-like minerality. Pinot Grigio doesn’t have a strikingly unique flavor the way Moscato or Riesling do, but it does offer a refreshing twinkle of acidity and a weighty feeling on the middle of your tongue – like licking wax paper.”
Italian Pinot Grigio Usually totally dry with brilliant acidity with a bitter almond note.
American Pinot Grigio Often with more exaggerated fruit flavors and with less acidity than European counterparts.
“Pinot Grigio often tastes less sweet than Chardonnay because of high acidity. There are two examples where Pinot Grigio is sweet. One example is cheap supermarket Pinot Grigio designed to woo mid-week wine drinkers. The second (and considerably more rare) are the slightly sweet Pinot Gris from Alsace.”
“Most Pinot Grigio is dry with fruit flavors of pear and apple with hints of lemon and mineral. They range from light to medium body and should be consumed when they are fresh and young. Pinot Grigio is the same grape as Pinot Gris, which is grown in a medium-bodied style in Alsace, California and Oregon…It is important to understand that although Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are the same grape, they are capable of producing a variety of white wines in a number of different winegrowing areas. The lesser expensive Pinot Grigio produced throughout Italy is a nice, crisp and dry wine with a neutral flavor. As the price increases with Italian Pinot Grigio, so does the body and flavors of the wines. At their best, they contain wonderfully crisp acidity, complemented by loads of citrus fruit flavors. Impressive hints of mineral add dimension to the refreshing long finish. The best Pinot Grigio is produced in the northern area of Italy, benefiting from the cooler climate.
“Pinot Grigio flavors can range from melon to pear and some even offer a subtle tropical or citrus fruit, often there is a honey or smoky flavor component as well. As for color, Pinot Grigio is typically a pale, straw-like yellow with some golden hues thrown in. The texture of a Pinot Grigio is worth noting, as it has very smooth, almost silk-like overtones that leave an impression on the palate. ”
“Personally, I find these [desireable] qualities most prevalent in the Pinot Grigio wines from Alto Adige in Northern Italy, where the wines show great purity, and are delicately aromatic with great intensity and depth of flavor.
“Flavors and aromas vary greatly from region to region, and from style to style, but commonly feature notes of pears, apples, stone fruit, sweet spices and even a hint of smoke or wet wool…Of the ‘New World’ wine regions, the variety is doing well in the United States (most notably Oregon but also Washington and California) and New Zealand. New World producers have recognized and respected the distinction between the Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio styles, and typically label their wines accordingly (lighter, drier versions as Pinot Grigio, while sweeter or richer styles as Pinot Gris).”
“Pale, straw-yellow or very light copper in color with a bright and flowery fragrance. Firm acidity gives Pinot Grigio a mouth watering appeal. Generally offers nice mid-palate balance with a short, clean finish. Another one to drink young, young, young!”
“While Pinot Grigio is in fact the same grape as Pinot Gris (just the Italian take on it), the differences of wine they create can be immense. Pinot Gris’ most popular and successful region is Alsace, France, an area of the country that actually puts the name of the grape on the label. Pinot Grigio is the Italian version of the grape, known for its light, crisp acidity. But wines from other regions usually term their wine Pinot Gris or Grigio based on the wine’s flavor profile. Pinot Gris from Alsace creates rich, stone fruit-laden wines. They are perfumed and aromatic, and typically dry. It has round body and medium acidity. Take the grape a bit south to Italy, and it creates a very crisp, high-acid, citrus noted wine. Both are flavorful, but wine named Pinot Gris typically provides more body and rounder fruits while Pinot Grigio gives lighter-bodied, citrus fruits. Oregon and California are also growing the grape, Oregon having success with a more Alsacian style and California producing both. Winemakers often call the wine by the style they wish to replicate – for Italian style, look for Pinot Grigio, for the Alsacian style, look for Pinot Gris…Common Descriptors: peach, pear, floral, citrus.”
“Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are identical in the sense that they are made from the same grape. But there is a big difference in the spectrum of styles that can be made from this grape. Pinot Gris from the Alsace region of France is typically rich and often sweet, with rich, spicy tropical fruit aromas. Pinot Grigio in northeastern Italy shows a lighter, crisp, clean and vibrant expression of the grape, with citrus flavors. Outside of these specific areas, the name vintners will use on the label is mostly a stylistic decision (as with naming a wine Syrah or Shiraz when it comes from neither France nor Australia), so they will usually select the name that best fits the style they’re going for, Alsatian or Italian.”