The Verdejo Grape

(Synonyms: Albillo de Nava, Botón de Gallo Blanco, Verdeja, Verdejo Blanco)

Background

Verdejo is a white-wine grape originating in the Rueda region of Spain, though possibly brought there from North Africa in the 11th century. It was long used for making sherry-like oxidized wines; it was only as recently as about 40 years ago that white table wines of Verdejo began to emerge. It is today used in blends, but also frequently made as a monovarietal bottling. Spanish wines labelled Rueda must be at least 50% Verdejo; if the label more explicitly says Rueda Verdejo, the Verdejo content must be at least 85% and is often 100%.

Verdejo makes a fairly full-bodied wine. In many descriptions, it is a soft, rounded, almost creamy wine, with a full nose and flavor; qualities such as “honeyed” and “nutty” are often heard in descriptions of the taste. On the other hand, not a few descriptions are rather different, emphasizing tartness, acid crispness, minerality, and definite citrus notes. Clearly, there are significant variations in winemaking style for Verdejo, and one needs to decide which style best meets personal preferences (though both might well do so). One style clue is if the label description referes to lees contact: if so, it is likely to be the softer, creamier style. Two other taste notes: a taste often mentioned for Verdejo is fennel, which is a mild anise flavor; also, many descriptions refer to a slightly bitter finish, which is seen as varietally characteristic and desireable.

Factoid: Verdejo seems especially prone to oxidation; modern winemaking techniques have much reduced the scope of the problem as the wine goes into the bottle, but it is still possible to find the occasional oxidized bottle if reasonable care was not taken at all stages of transportation and storage.

Some Descriptions of Verdejo Wines

Wikipedia
“Verdejo wines are aromatic, often soft, and full-bodied.”
Wines From Spain
“Verdejo in Rueda is consistently good, regardless of the producer; but consistency of style for Verdejo remains unachieved. Some Verdejos are crisp and grassy like Sauvignon Blanc, while others are richer and textured like an unoaked Chardonnay.”
Wine Searcher
“Verdejo wines are high in glycerol and acid, sometimes taking on nutty flavors as it ages. It can be aromatic and herbaceous at its best, and is usually consumed young, within a couple of years of vintage. Some of the finest, best-structured examples, however, are worthy of short-term or mid-term cellaring.”
Berry Bros. & Rudd
“Typically Verdejo dominated wines are crisp with soft, creamy, nutty overtones, and sometimes accompanied by notes of honey. Arguably Spain’s finest white grape variety.”
Do Rueda
“It has a unique flavour, with a hint of scrub herbs, a fruity touch and an excellent level of acidity. The extract, a key factor when assessing the personality of great white wines, is perceived through its volume and its characteristic bitter touch, which leaves a glint of originality in the mouth, accompanied by a rich fruity expression.”
Michael Cervin, “Into Wine”
“Similar in style and characteristics to Pinot Gris, Verdejo fully expresses itself in the high altitude of Rueda where it showcases lemon and citrus, minerality and above all, a sharp acidity which makes it compelling with the tapas so that are so ubiquitous around the region…At its best Verdejo is sharp and clean with lemon and lime notes, a backbone of minerality and a potent acidity. That may sound simple, but crafting excellent wines is not a simple process. It was also clear that many producers are trying their hand at a barrel fermented version and the results are less than spectacular. Verdejo is best when left alone and the inherent qualities are not interfered with.”
Bill Daley, Chicago Tribune
“Like its Spanish sisters, albarino from the Rias Baixas region and macabeo (known as viura in the Rioja region), verdejo makes a terrific food wine. Its citrusy notes and aroma—very similar to sauvignon blanc—play particularly well with the composed salads and simple grilled foods of summer.”
Worlds of Flavor: Spain
“Verdejo is a fascinating grape, with great freshness and acidity balanced with rich body and notes of citrus, minerality, and melon. You may think of Spain as a classic Mediterranean country, but this high plateau is a classic continental climate with long cold winters, short springs, and hot summers. These high elevations (between 2500 and 3000 feet) allow the late maturing Verdejo grape to develop deep aromas and flavors. The result is a climate that makes dry, fresh wines with real character and brightness.”
Total Wine
“Verdejo produces full-bodied, yet crisp wine with a rich, nutty flavor. ”
Espavino
“Today’s young white wine is green-yellow in color, with an intensive fruity bouquet (gooseberry, green kiwi, passion fruit, citrus) flowery to dry (herbacious), quite juicy in the palate with harmonious body and intensive fruit aroma.”
Good Housekeeping
“Light-bodied and crisp, these wines smell like a big bowl of citrus and green apples. They’re as delicious alone as they are with food.”
Fringe Wine
“Jancis Robinson, in her Vines, Grapes and Wines has this to say about Verdejo: ‘Of all the white varieties among Spain’s official top twenty, Verdejo is probably the one with the most discernibly aristocratic character.’”
Quentin Sadler, Catavino
“So, Verdejo has had to sit out the last few hundred years on the sidelines, waiting for modern technology to treat it properly. We are so lucky that we can now enjoy fresh, lively wines from this wonderful grape. If you are not familiar with Verdejo, do dedicate a little more of your summer drinking to it, there are some splendid examples around and they all give great value for money. Stylistically Verdejo leans towards Sauvignon Blanc, so should appeal to the great majority of wine drinkers.”

Some Verdejos to Try

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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