The Verdicchio Grape

(Synonyms: Angelica, Boschera, Boschera Bianca, Lugana, Pevarise, Peverella, Peverenda, Pfefferer, Pfeffertraube, Pievana, Trebbiano di Lonigo, Trebbiano di Lugana, Trebbiano di Soave, Trebiano di Verona, Trebbiano Nostrano, Trebbiano Valtenesi, Trebbiano Verde, Turbiana, Turbiano, Turviana, Verdetto, Verdicchio Giallo, Verdicchio Marchigiano, Verdicchio Peloso, Verdicchio Verde, Verdone.)

Background

The formal name of this variety is Veredicchio Bianco, though it is commonly just called Verdicchio. Verdicchio is a white-wine grape probably originating in Italy’s Veneto region (around Venice), but possibly the Marches region (but modern opinion holds that it migrated from the Veneto to the Marches); it is a very old variety and its long history makes definite assignment difficult. Moreover, it has at many times and in many places, been called “Trebbiano Something-or-other”, though it is not a member of the Trebbiano group of wine grapes. As the list of synonyms above shows, it has indeed been known under many names (and the identity of grapes thus called with Verdicchio Bianco has only been proved definitively by relatively recent DNA analysis).

Today, Verdicchio is mainly grown in its “new” (since the 15th century or so) home in the Marches, notably in the DOCs of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. The wines made in those two DOCs are nominally from the same grape variety, but adaption over the centuries has led to some differentiation, and there are biotype differences between wines from the two DOCs.

Broadly speaking, a Verdicchio will have crisp acidity and a lemon overtone to the nose and flavor, and many leave a sort of bitter-almond after-taste (a quality prized by Italians). They display terroir well, and are considered age-worthy. Noted Italian-wine expert Ian D’Agata, in his excellent book Native Wine Grapes of Italy, states that “Verdicchio is arguably Italy’s greatest white grape variety” (the other two competitors being Garganega, whence Soave wines, and Fiano). As he further remarks, that may surprise many people, owing to the sad history of rather dire Verdicchio wines long being made, and sold, on the cheap, often in cutesy “fish” bottles (example shown at the right). But treated at all decently, it makes remarkably good wines.

Factoid: Re winemaking district “Castelli di Jesi”: the Jesi were an ancient tribe and their fourteen castelli were hilltop towns—not castles— to which they would retreat when threatened.

Some Descriptions of Verdicchio Wines

Wikipedia
“Verdicchio can produce wines that are virtually colorless with noticeably high acidity that can come across on the palate with citrus notes. According to wine expert Jancis Robinson, well made examples from favorable vintages can have flavors of lemons and slight bitter almond notes…According to Oz Clarke, the quality of Verdicchio wines has improved since the later half of the 20th century as producers limit yields even beyond DOC regulation to produce fuller flavored grapes that can better balance its high acidity. Clarke goes on to note that the subtlety of Verdicchio flavors allows it to pair very well with a variety of foods.”
Wine Searcher
“It is a versatile variety, used both for light, easy-drinking table wines, and for more complex, ageworthy examples. It is commonly lauded by critics as being one of Italy’s best white wine grape varieties, and is found in vineyards across the country…[H]igh acidity is one of Verdicchio’s most useful viticultural characteristics. As well as making fresh, well-structured still wines with citrus flavors like lemon and grapefruit, Verdicchio is often used as the base for sparkling wines…The binding characteristic across these styles is the telltale almond flavor, which can be accompanied by bitter notes when young or a rich, sweet suggestion of marzipan and honey as the wine ages…When overcropped, Verdicchio wines can be bland and uninteresting, and the traditionally shaped bottle has perhaps served to deter consumers, in much the same way as the [straw-covered] Chianti fiasco. However, a push toward quality and renewed interest in native Italian grape varieties has seen a gradual reversal of fortunes for the grape’s image.”
Vicki Denig, Vine Pair
“The grape has been grown for the last six centuries and produces dry, refreshing white wines with citrus and almond notes.”
Tom Hyland, Forbes
“Verdicchio, a dry white wine from the central Italian region of Marche, is one of the country’s longest lived whites. It has been called Italy’s best white wine by numerous writers, and it is also one of the finest values of any white anywhere in the world. Yet, you truly don’t see many offerings of Verdicchio on retail shelves or wine lists in America or many countries…Most examples are vinified without wood, with numerous examples being fermented and matured in cement tanks to highlight the varietal purity of Verdicchio. Perfumes of pear, melon and jasmine are common, as are floral notes of lilacs and magnolia; certainly the finest examples of Verdicchio are among the prettiest white wines from anywhere in the world…Examples of Verdicchio di Matelica are in this fragrant style, with perhaps a bit more of a subtle herbal character as compared to the Jesi wines. You just don’t see many Matelica wines however, as the area is about one-tenth the size of Jesi…Generally the most complex versions—and often the ones with the greatest staying power—are the riserva examples of Verdicchio…Yet, not every Verdicchio that ages well is a riserva.”
Bill St. John, Chicago Tribune
“Verdicchio makes a wine high in a lemonlike acidity with a characteristic finish of bitter almond (as with many Italian white wines). A few years back, during the ‘Big Night’ and ‘Godfather’ days, verdicchio had suffered in quality, having become nothing more than an insipid white bottled in fish-shaped glass bottles. All that as changed; lower yields in the vineyard and more careful construction of the wine in the winery conspire to put modern-day verdicchio di Castelli di Jesi in the league of white wines such as good quality regional Chablis or Muscadet.”
The Italian on Tour
“To the untrained eye, Verdicchio is a straw yellow Italian white wine with bright golden reflections. Take a closer look and you will see Verdicchio often displays a greenish tinge, which is why it was given the name Verdicchio (Verde means green in Italian). It has aromas of citrus fruits, peach, pear, apple with a tropical touch and good persistence. When Verdicchio is aged in barrique, fermentation in the cask gives it aromas of vanilla and toasted wood…Quick Tip: Rotating the glass also blossoms vegetal notes of linden, elder, hawthorn, and mimosa. Verdicchio can thank its revival to its structure, good acidity, and good alcohol content. Its taste has an aromatic profile that is extremely complex, vegetable and floral. The amaro (bitter) characteristic of the Verdicchio grape is unmistakably sapid and has an almondy finish, which is pleasantly bitter. If you are picking up a Verdicchio that is labeled “Superiore” you will get the bonus of added longevity and it may even be stored away in your cellar for up to twenty years!”
Jancis Robinson
“The grape of Italy’s Marche, made famous by Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi in an amphora-shaped bottle – although Verdicchio di Matelica can be a more concentrated, ageworthy wine.”
Ian D'Agata, Vinous
“Verdicchio’s bane is [that] it, too, can produce very agreeable, immediately drinkable wines, even with high yields in the vineyard. Many Verdicchio wines poured from amphora-shaped bottles are actually far better than they have any right to be, given their less-than-serious glass vessels. The problem, though, is that when consumers start associating a variety with cutesy bottles and low prices, it becomes difficult to convince them that the grape and the wines are capable of bigger and better things. This is unfortunate, because Verdicchio is actually one of Italy’s two or three best native white grapes, and one that can produce wines with both remarkable complexity and depth. And the best examples can last—and improve—for a decade or more.…While many Italian denominations are of little use because they are devoid of any real connection to the land, this is not the case with the Marche’s two Verdicchio denominations. The wines of the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and of Verdicchio di Matelica are totally different and clearly reflect the areas they are from. The Jesi production zone features gentler slopes and a more temperate climate thanks to its proximity to the sea, while Matelica is a landlocked, mountainous, generally cooler region. Verdicchios from Jesi are fruitier and rounder, while those from Matelica are fuller-bodied and more mineral…Verdicchio can age gracefully for six to eight years and sometimes longer. In my experience, Verdicchios start out fresh and crisp during their first two years of life, displaying aromas and flavors of apple, pear, fresh citrus fruits, white flowers, minerals and herbs, then become richer and deeper between two and six years after the harvest, during which time they are dominated by notes of riper citrus fruits, almond flower and balsamic oils. After that, they may pick up notes of almond paste, caramelized brown sugar and pungent underbrush. The wines of both Jesi and Matelica—but especially the latter—are marked by more or less gentle mineral undertones as well as a delicate note of diesel fuel that often emerges with time. The point is that the wines not only last well, but are also some of Italy’s most distinctive white wines.”
Jon Bonné, Punch
“The verdicchio grape itself tends to have that lemony, tart fruit flavor you want in seafood wines, along with a piney side that’s reminiscent of vermentino or Campanian greco…Most come from the hills west of Ancona, and you’re mostly likely to encounter Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, sourced from vineyards west of the town of Jesi, located 12 miles inland. Jesi wines are mostly grown on limestone and that’s reflected in their frothy, bright flavors. Keep moving inland and you’ll encounter the 4,850-foot Monte San Vicino, which sets apart the Jesi area from the smaller Matelica area, which sits at higher elevation, with more marl-like soil and usually later ripening. A lot of Matelica verdicchio can be tepid, but at its best, it can offer more weight and power than Jesi.”
Valerie Kathawala, The Grape Collective
“The strength of Verdicchio is not on the nose, but the palate. The best wines are dry, floral and delicate. When young, they typically have a faintly sweet almond note. As they age, they may develop a compelling flintiness. The lemony salinity and bright acidity of Verdicchio make it an ideal match for the fish dishes that glint from the bowls on Marche tables…The wines of Jesi have a marine wash of citrus, resin and herbs. A slight bitterness on the finish (an essential element of the Italian palate) is a hallmark. The wines of Matelica, which sits much closer to the Apennines and is therefore higher in altitude, are correspondingly more finely structured, with greater acidity, body and alcohol.”

Some Verdicchios to Try

We have not here segregated out di Matelica, dei Castelli di Jesi, and other regional differences, save that we omit any “Verdicchio Lugana” wines because we now all know that those are actually a different grape, Turbiana.

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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