The Xinomavro Grape

(Synonyms: Csinomavro, Mavro, Mavro Naoussis, Mavro Naoustino, Mavro Xyno, Naouses Mavro, Naoustiano, Naoystiro Mavro, Negroska Popolka, Niaoussa, Naoustino, Pipoliko, Popolko, Xinogaltso, Xynomavro, Xynomavro Bolgar, Xynomavro Naoussis, Xynomavro of Náoussa, Xynomavron, Zinomavro, Zynomavro)

Background

Xinomavro (also often spelled Xynomavro) is a red-wine grape originating in Greece, more particularly in northwestern Greece, in the Imathia region of Macedonia, in what are now the monovarietal appellations of Náoussa and Amynteo; Náoussa is often regarded the best source. Xinomavro is generally considered one of the dozen and a half or so of world-class grapes.

Xinomavro is not a wine of our times (in any sense). It is a tricky devil in the vineyard: if the vineyardist lets it go, hoping to obtain quantity, quality takes a nosedive, and thin, acidic plonk results; but neither can it be made into the sort of huge Parkerized, internationalized, Shiraz-like red that is so popular today. It can only, made with care and skill, be itself, a red more like Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo in that it trades on delicacy and requires some nontrivial bottle age to get to where it should be.

Nor is it a fruit-forward “jammy” wine: its flavors are (as you will see below) variously described, but almost never in red-fruit terms. Tomato, olive, spice, and earthiness are the recurring descriptors. And it is high-acid and high in tannins (which is why it both bears and usually requires that bottle aging). If you are interested in wines that require some care from both the wine maker and the wine drinker, this will be your sort of wine; if you want a fruit bomb, look elsewhere.

At least one writer observes that there are now two distinct styles of Xinomavro emerging: “traditional”, with high tannins and a need for nontrivial amounts of bottle aging; and “modern”, vinified to be more fruit-forward and drinkable young. That last is relatively new, and it looks like many observers think it inappropriate for this varietal (though there are certainly at least a few successful versions).

Factoid: One obstacle to Xinomavro popularity outside Greece is the matter of how to pronounce it, which can embarrass some people. Fortunately, there are some videos on YouTube that can relieve your stress. (ksee-NOH-mah-vroh, if you don't like video links.)

Some Descriptions of Xinomavro Wines

Palate Press
“Wines made from this variety lack primary fruit on the nose; instead one finds an intriguing combination of olives and tomatoes. But on the palate, raspberry flavours typically shine through. The colour is often pale and relatively unstable, and can evolve quickly into a tawny colour in the glass. The rim often looks mature even in young wines…Poorly made Xinomavro is an undrinkable, sour liquid. It is no mistake its name translates to ‘black acid.’ It takes more than average winemaking talent to soften the harsh tannin structure. But the best winemakers are able to craft stunningly rich and concentrated wines that are truly world-class, able to develop and mature over many decades. It is a sublime pleasure to taste matured bottles of top Xinomavro. Its vegetal character increases over time, and the harsh tannic structure that Xinomavro often exhibits when young softens considerably, transforming the wine into a velvety pleasure. These wines gain a lot of elegance over time, losing all their roughness.”
Quentin Sadler
“What makes Xinomavro stand out from the crowd is its potential for elegance. The wines it makes, especially in Naoussa, can be very fine indeed…Some people like to compare Xinomavro to Pinot Noir and in terms of colour and tannin that contrast gives you a pretty good idea of what it is like. If I have to compare it to anything though, and it does make things easier if you have never tried one, then I think Nebbiolo might be a better bet. True it is less tannic, but everything else is bang on, body (not that full, whatever the books may say) and acidity, more importantly it has red fruit characters and a similar deeply savoury, umami nature. While Pinot always makes think of red cherry and raspberries, I see from my notes that Xinomavro for me is often very tomato-like in flavour and aroma. Sometimes the tomato feels fresh, other times more sun-dried or cooked and even occasionally just tomato stalk, but it is always there and makes the wines go superbly with the wonderful local cuisine.”
Wine Making Talk
“The Xinomavro grape has a rich tannin level and can age well. It possesses complex scents and aromas of fruits such as gooseberry, dried tomatoes, spices and olives. Depending on the vinification and ageing process, the Xinomavro wine may also possess a woody aroma with hints of redcurrant. Furthermore, the Xinomavro wine has a thin texture and high acidity.”
Kerasma
“One could compare Xinomavro to the more famous Pinot Noir, to the great red Burgundies, or to the Italian Nebbiolo grape and its benchmark wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. Like Xinomavro, none of these varieties is appropriate for making large-volume, everyday wines. Attempts to do so usually result in featherweight, characterless wines that range anywhere from charming, to easily quaffable, boring, thin, and aggressive. But the best examples are unquestionably among the top wines of the world…Xinomavro wines almost never have very deep color or bluish tints, and tawny hues are apparent, even when the wine is still in barrel. The nose is usually intense, even high-pitched, although bottle aging couples these ‘soprano’ notes with more ‘contrabass phrases’. One of the criticisms often heard about the Xinomavro variety is that it lacks vibrant, fresh, sweet-fruit notes, and leans instead more towards dried prune, cherry-tomato, and very often strawberry facets. But why should anyone miss the fruit when there is so much more going on in the wine? Sweet, exotic spices and finely powdered Mediterranean herbs are matched with haunting nuances of leather and wet earth. The palate has a crisp acidity and a firm tannin structure, giving more extract and density than body and broadness.”
Fringe Wine
“There are also many different clones of the grape which differ markedly from one another in virtually every way that you can think of. They flower and ripen at different times, have different bunch and berry sizes, have different vinous characteristics (fruit, acidity and tannin) and reach their peak ripeness in different microclimates. No one clone seems to have the magic combination so many different clones are grown on different sites and blended together in the winery. Once you get past all the growing troubles and issues in the winery (many clones have poor color stability and can create very odd aromas when vinified), the wine that you get tends to be fairly light in color and very high and acidity and tannin. In short, it is the polar opposite of the kind of wine that is very much in fashion right now in that it's not very accessible in its youth and tends to demand food. Needless to say, Xinomavro is facing several uphill battles in the world marketplace.”
Vinaspora
“Most often it is compared to Pinot noir and Nebbiolo and it matches their quality…[It] seems to be completely maladapted to today’s market’s reality. It’s impossible to make large quantity of a light easy drinking beverage. You really have to limit the crop severely to get good quality wine. Otherwise…the name of the variety (meaning black-acidic or bitter) says it all. To make a big, dark, solid, full of extracts reminding you of most of today's so–called premium wines is not possible either. Extraction pushed too far doesn't improve it. But if you take care of it in the right way, you get a wine of outstanding finesse, complexity and potential…The wine looks like Pinot noir or Cabernet franc. It’s got quite light colour, easily gets oxidised, looses its purple hue already in a barrel. In its nose you can find dried plums, sun dried tomatoes, strawberries, gooseberries, blueberries, raspberries, truffles, leather, wet earth, lots of aromatic herbs and spices. Quite high acidity is also characteristic, it helps to preserve the wine for a long time. Because it’s not a wine to drink while it’s young you should try to drink Xinomavro when it is at least five years old. However they are really at their top after about ten years of ageing. Some people say that you have to wait a quarter of the century to let them get to their optimum. But really before deciding for how long you are going to put your bottle in the cellar, it’s worth checking where it exactly comes from.”
Wine Searcher
“The variety is highly regarded in its native Greece as the finest red wine the country has to offer. With its characteristically high tannin and acidity, Xynomavro is structurally one of the biggest red wines in the Mediterranean, and indeed Europe…In Naousa, where Xynomavro is extensively grown, winemakers boast of the completeness of their wine. In some circles the use of oak is frowned upon. Locally grown walnut is the preferred choice for aging since it imparts no discernible flavor. The ideological approach to the grape can be best illustrated by two Greek appellations’ requirements for its treatment. In Naousa, Xynomavro must be produced as a single varietal wine, while further south in Rapsani it must be blended with Stavroto and Krasato…However exponents of the ‘old school’ frown upon any practice of blending Xynomavro. A grape, they believe, too noble to dilute…Vintage variation is a significant factor to consider with regard to purchasing decisions since the weather can play a large role in Xynomavro’s quality. Aged examples of 100% Xynomavro are often compared to the great wines of Burgundy and Barolo, though they have been also been likened to everything from the color of red Rioja to the mouthfeel of Chianti.”
Wine for Normal People
“It literally means ‘acid black’ and when it’s badly made it tastes as bad as it sounds. When it’s good, it’s a really unique, tasty wine. I’ve only had the opportunity to try a few, but usually they taste like licorice, herbs, and even olives, and are earthy with big tannin. They tend to tip the scales in alcohol, which I don’t really dig, but not to the extent that they are undrinkable. The other attributes of the wine make it worth the burn.”
Hayley Hamilton, D Magazine
“The deep black grapes flourish in the semi-mountainous area known for its full-bodied, intense wine that need time to age to truly let their flavors shine, but when they do the well-aged Xinomavro could be easily mistaken for an earthy Barolo or Nero d’Avola.”
All About Greek Wine
“The wines made from Xinomavro are known for their superb aging potential and their rich tannic character. Their complex aromas combine such red fruits as gooseberry with hints of olives, spices and dried tomatoes.”

Some Xinomavros to Try

We had to flex a little to eke out this list, but we think everything on it worthy.

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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