The Albariño Grape

(Synonyms: Albelleiro, Alvarin Blanco, Alvarinho, Azal Blanco, Galego, Galeguinho,Padernã)

Background

Albariño is a white-wine grape originating in, and still primarily from, Galicia—the northwest corner of the Iberian peninsula, parts of which are in Spain and parts in Portugal (where the grape is known as is known as Alvarinho). Till fairly recently, Albariño was an obscure variety, little known outside its home; that was chiefly because transport to and from that region was minimal and slow. With the advent of improved railways, the grape came to the attention of the world market, and it is now generally considered one of the dozen and a half or so of world-class white wines. While it is characteristic of Iberian wines to be blends, known by regional names, Albariño is so well regarded that it is usually bottled as a 100% monovarietal.

It is widely felt that the best Albariños come from the Rías Baixas area. Classic winemaking for Rías Baixas Albariño does not involve contact with wood; but in recent years, some winemakers have been experimenting with oak-barrel aging for at least some of their Albariños. The practice (as well as a trend to less-dry renditions) is controversial: some feel it makes a better wine, while others hold that good, bad, or indifferent, whatever results is not “real” Albariño. There are obviously no definitive answers, but be aware of those basic stylistic differences when approaching samples of this varietal, and don’t judge all by a few.

Some Descriptions of Albariño Wines

Wikipedia
“The grape is noted for its distinctive aroma, very similar to that of Viognier, Gewurztraminer, and Petit Manseng, suggesting apricot and peach. The wine produced is unusually light, and generally high in acidity with alcohol levels of 11.5–12.5%. Its thick skins and large number of pips can cause residual bitterness.”
Rías Baxias Wines
“It has been compared to Riesling for its minerality and bracing acidity; to Viognier, because of its fleshiness and peach/apricot character; and to Pinot Gris for its floral bouquet. When grown in highly acidic, granitic earth, Albariño yields a more mineral-driven and structured wine. In sandy soil, however, the Albariño grape gives a softer, rounder wine…It is also one of the few Spanish white grape varieties produced as a varietal wine on its own and designated on labels. Most often fermented in stainless steel for early drinking, Albariño is a versatile grape. It responds well to malolactic or barrel fermentation and maturation to create wines of wonderful complexity and aging ability.”
Oliver Styles, Catavina
“But what are the classic characteristics of Rías Baixas Albarino, then? This is debatable but probably: a very aromatic nose of something like peaches and apricots; decent palate weight; but not broad or flabby; and a lovely, fresh, zippy acidic finish.”
Jim Clarke, StarChefs
“Fresh, aromatic, light. Notes of peach, melon, pear, and sometimes even apricot countered by a crystalline minerality. The vibrant acidity is occasionally smoothed out with the slightest of petillance. Some producers are experimenting with oak-aging, but this is certainly the exception so far.”
Professional Friends of Wine
“Typically, its wines are very sweet-smelling, often described as having scents of almonds or almond paste, apples, citrus, lime, peaches, and flowers or grass. Albariño shares many of the same terpenes also found in the other aromatic varieties: Gewürztraminer, Muscat, and Riesling. Albariño wines are particularly suited to seafood due to their bracing acidity (Jancis Robinson calls it ‘razor-sharp.’). This grape’s inherent tartness should be embraced in youth, for wines made from albariño do not age well, and the vibrant aromas begin to noticeably fade within months of bottling.”
Michael Franz, Wine Review Online
“Albariño can age. And by that I mean not only that it can hang on for a few years after being bottled, but that it can develop.”
Dennis Schaefer, Wine Lovers Page
“Part of its attraction is its salinity: you can almost taste the salty sea spray that mingles with refreshing, honeyed flavors of apple, citrus, and stone fruits. While the wines are not necessarily simple, they are direct with great aromatics, plenty of luscious flavors and crisp finishes.”
Albariño Explorers Club
(Many images of Albariños, with some popup comments on each maker.)

Some Albariños to Try

There is a veritable flood of good Albariños out there. Making selections for a list was not simple, but we think what we show below is a choice assortment.

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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