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(Synonyms: Bonvino Nero, Cesanese Comune, Cesanese di Afile, Cesanese Nostrano, Nero Ferrigno, Sanguinella, Uva di Afile.)
Cesanese is an ancient red-wine grape originating in Italy, in the Cesanese Comune area of the Lazio region, around Rome. That area today remains the source of almost all Cesanese wines.
To understand the present-day status of Cesanese, one has to appreciate the wine-making history of the Lazio region (the area around Rome). Historically, and by its nature (soils, climate, and the like), the area has, since the days of the Empire, famously produced quite a variety of excellent wines. But as we approach modern times, we find that the seemingly insatiable thirst of the burgeoning population of the renascent Rome (whose population after the devastating Gothic War of 535–554 C.E. had fallen to a mere 35,000) was willing to consume all the wine Lazio could produce, regardless of quality; accordingly, the emphasis was on quantity, and quality suffered badly.
Only in the last few decades have Italian winemakers begun to reverse that trend, and Cesanese is an archetypal example. Its status is not helped by the reality that it can be a difficult grape to manage in the vineyard, owing to its very late ripening; as noted by Wine Searcher (se the quotations farther down this page), “In some cases, the grapes will not reach full phenolic maturity, and the resultant thin, watery wines do not demonstrate the best qualities of Cesanese.” But a corps of young, dedicated winemakers are now taking greater care, and some fine Cesaneses are appearing (see also Italian-wine expert Ian D’Agata’s comments farther below).
There are three distinct strains of Cesanese: Cesanese Comune; Cesanese d’Affile; and the newly rediscovered Cesanese Nostrano. The d’Affile strain is generally preferred, and is slowly edging out the Comune strain, though both can give good wines. The Nostrano strain has not yet established a reputation one way or the other.
The general characteristics of Cesanese wines are dry and fruity with soft tannins and a distinctive aroma variously said to be of mulberries, cherries, floral notes, some herb/spice, and even a tad of red pepper. It is a wine that wants little or no oaking, and is best drunk young.
Factoid: In the 2000s, Cesanese made news owing to its inclusion in “Sogno Uno”, the debut wine from Savanna Samson—an American porn star turned winemaker—which wine earned favorable ratings from wine critics.
Cesanese may be rising in reknown, but is still not widely distributed in the U.S. The list below is all we could find that is not over $20 and is reasonably available.
• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.
• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.
We could find no reasonably available Cesanese wines better enough than those listed above as to justify a “splurge” price.
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Some Descriptions of Cesanese Wines
“In the late 20th century more winemakers began making dry still wines from the grape variety. Under DOC regulations, any wine labeled as Cesanese must contain at least 90% of the grape variety in the wine…Wines made Cesanese are described as light bodied and soft, often recommended to be enjoyed soon after release. Wines from the Cesanese di Affile DOC may have a slight bitter edge.”
“It is used mostly in the production of still red wines with bright fruit characters and some earthy overtones, and is considered by many to be one of Lazio's most interesting grape varieties…The variety comes in two distinct types – the large-berried Cesanese Comune and the less widespread Cesanese di Affile. The two are united in both Cesanese del Piglio DOCG wines and Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC wines, and Cesanese di Affile—considered the superior of the two—has its own Cesanese di Affile DOC title…The grape ripens extremely late, even in the sunny climes around Rome. In some cases, the grapes will not reach full phenolic maturity, and the resultant thin, watery wines do not demonstrate the best qualities of Cesanese. When made well, however, Cesanese can demonstrate rich, ripe cherry flavors with some floral characters and sometimes a touch of red pepper. The wines are medium bodied with soft tannins, and are best with minimal oak; too much can be overpowering. Cesanese Comune is the larger-berried of the two vines and is slightly more robust, showing increased resistance to fungal infections and other vineyard pests. It is probably for this very reason than its plantings have remained stable, while those of Cesanese di Affile are steadily dropping,.”
“[T]he Cesanese varieties are unquestionably capable, in competent hands, of giving very fine, perfumed, penetrating red wines. I don’t mean to overstate my case, but I truly believe that the Cesaneses are capable of producing wines that one day might be viewed in the same light as those made with Nebbiolo or Aglianico. There are two different Cesanese varieties, Cesanese Comune (more common in the Olevano Romano area) and Cesanese d’Affile (more commonly planted in the areas of Piglio and Affile). A third cultivar, Cesanese Nostrano, has only recently resurfaced, and the jury is still out on its ultimate potential. ”
“Cesanese del Piglio is not for the faint-of-heart. On the palate, it’s surprisingly well balanced with subtle pin-cushion like tannins and perfectly moderate acidity. After a drink or two you’ll start to notice a bitterness on the finish similar to that of kale. [Its aroma includes] powerful notes of cranberry sauce, sweet pomegranate, and plums.”
“There are two subvarieties of Cesanese: Comune (common) and d’Affile (with origins in the nearby town of Affile). Cesanese tends to offer fine aromas of forest floor, mulberry, blueberry, violet and juniper. Warmth, balance and elegant tannins also characterize the wines.”
“Cesanese d’Affile [is] one of two officially recognized varieties by the same name. The other is Cesanese Comune, once the more widely planted but whose 2016 numbers…lag 328 (a skip up from 307 in the 2010 census) hectares to the first’s 535 (a haul from 2010’s 372). ‘They are vines strongly tied to Lazio’s viti- and viniculture’, write Carbone et al, and concentrated in the provinces of Roma and Frosinone. ‘In reality, there is a third, recently discovered Cesanese variety that few are aware of: Cesanese di Castelfranco, localised in sporadic plots in the northeastern section of Lazio’, writes Ian D’Agata in his 2014 Native Wine Grapes of Italy.”
“‘Cesanese is not a vino nobile like Nebbiolo. You can’t age it for 30 years’ says [winemaker Damiano Ciolli]. ‘But it’s a wine that’s versatile at table. It’s spicy, it’s floral and, in a cold year, it can be like Pinot Nero’ [Pinot Noir].”
“It is not cultivated anywhere outside Italy, but it is among the famous grape varieties of Italy. It is mainly used in the production of still red wines which have a bright fruit characteristic. A huge hilly area to the south of Rome is covered by Cesanese grape variety. The grape comes in two varieties; large-berried Cesanese Comune and Cesanese di Affile. Comune is blended in Cesanesedel Piglio and Cesanese di Olevano wines and Cesanese di Affile is superior and has its own Cesanese di Affile titled wines…The wines are said to taste best when consumed young…The wines made from this grape have ripe cherry flavours and will show some floral characters too. The wine may also show red pepper tastes sometimes. The acidity is not very high and the alcohol content is also favourable. The wines are mostly cherished because of its aromas and unique fruity taste.”
“Cesanese [has begun] to appear on the market as a still red wine, which has bright fruit characters and some earthy overtones. This grape variety has two distinct biotypes: the large-berried Cesanese Comune and the less widespread Cesanese di Affile, which differ in some morphological traits but are absolutely similar on the genetic level. From them two DOCs and one DOCG are originated: Cesanese del Piglio DOCG, Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC and Cesanese di Affile DOC, this last being made with Cesanese di Affile only, considered the superior one.”
“There are three DOC appellations for this wine: Cesanese del Piglio (which has a DOCG classification), Cesanese di Affile and Cesanese di Olevano Romano. Each appellation has different variations of the wine, confirming the grape’s versatility…In general, Cesanese produces wines that are often somewhat rustic but this gives them an ancient peasant charm that makes them unique and unmistakable. The wine’s quality has improved significantly in recent years thanks to some very talented and passionate producers.”