The Montepulciano Grape

(Synonyms: Africano, Angolano, Montepulciano Cordisco, Montepulciano Spargolo, Morellone, Sangiovese Cordisco, Uva Abbruzzese, Violone)

Background

Montepulciano is a red-wine grape originating in the Abruzzo region of Italy, a region that encompasses four provinces, all of which produce Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines. Italian wine law permits up to a maximum of 15% of Sangiovese to be blended in Montepulciani.

The ultimate origin of the grape is unsure, but a good bet would be Tuscany, and it is thought to possibly be related to Sangiovese (the informing grape of Tuscany). Today, Montepulciano is grown to at least some extent throughout almost all but the most northerly and most southerly parts of Italy, though it is a secondary grape outside its home in the Abruzzo. Gluttons for punishment can review a list of the appellations in which Montepulciano can appear in wines.

Montepulciano makes satisfactory wines at all points on the price spectrum, from eminently drinkable bottles at five dollars (sometimes even less) up to prized gems well into the three-digit price range. We like to quote wine writer Loren Sonkin on this:

Simpler (read “less expensive”) Montepulciani are made for early drinking, and so have relatively low tannin levels and (especially for Italian reds) low levels of acid; the bigger ones can bottle-age to their benefit for a decade or two. Typical Montepulciano characteristics are a deep color, rich body, and an earthy, almost “rustic” quality, meaning strongly aromatic of dark fruits (meaning much more of, say, blackberry than of strawberry or even cherry) and with a distinct note of spiciness and perhaps the usual suspects for big-bodied reds, leather and tar. A well-made but inexpensive Montepulciano (not an oxymoron) is one of the best wine buys available.

There are official quality levels of Montepulciani. Basic wines require five months minimum aging; Vecchio bottlings, a step up, require an extra two years of aging on oak. There is also a “Riserva” designation, requiring three years total aging with at least six months on oak. Wines designated “Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane” (a legal appellation) are regarded as especially fine specimens.

Factoid: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has no connection to the Sangiovese-based wines “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano” or “Rosso di Montepulciano”, which are named after the town, but made from different grapes. There will be a quiz in the morning.

Some Descriptions of Montepulciano Wines

Wikipedia
“According to wine expert Oz Clarke, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is often a deeply colored wine with pepper and spice notes. It can be described as "rustic" which Clarke says is less pronounced when the wine is paired with food. Master of Wine Mary Ewing-Mulligan describes the wines as aromatic, tannic and with low acidity. According to Italian wine expert Joe Bastianich, Montepulciani d’Abruzzo can be highly aromatic with earthy notes and black berries and have inky-purple color with a thick, almost syrupy mouthfeel. While Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is often consumed young, the wine does have some aging potential with producers such as Stefano Illuminati of the Controguerra winery Illuminati noting that the wine doesn’t really change much in 10 years which can have its benefits and disadvantages because on one hand, you open a well-aged Montepulciano and it is still fresh and full-bodied. On the other hand, you don’t always get the more complex secondary aromas that develop with age. . . Clarke [further] describes Montepulciano as producing a round, plummy and weighty red with ripe tannins, good acidity and a low price tag.”
Eric Asimov, The New York Times
“The montepulcianos [tasted by a panel] were solid and enjoyable, bursting with tart cherry and earth flavors, sometimes augmented by herbal and floral aromas and, in the best, a minerally complexity.…[It] is resolutely dry, with enough soft fruit to be drinkable when young, yet tannic enough to keep it trim and energetic. While it pairs naturally with any dish that has tomato sauce, it’s as versatile as barbera or good Beaujolais. What you won’t find with montepulciano is much variation in flavors [from maker to maker].”
Loren Sonkin, IntoWine
“Unlike most other varietals, this grape makes nice wine even when produced in large quantities. The grape has a deep purple and ruby color to its juice. It has lower acidity (especially for an Italian varietal) and mild sweeter tannins. The resulting wines tend to be softer and more accessible than Chianti or Nebbiolo for example. Accordingly, the young wines are nice pleasurable reds that go as well with food as without it. Almost all of the wines at the low end of the price spectrum (and many can be found for under $8) are enjoyable. At the same time, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo can age brilliantly especially in the hands of the right producers.”
Berry Bros. & Rudd
“It normally produces light to medium bodied fruit driven wines, often low in tannins and acidity and which are usually best drunk young. However there are a handful of producers who produce 100% Montepulciano wines from low yielding old vines which are then oak aged and which will continue improving in bottle for 10 years or more.”
Michael Gallo, examiner.com
“[I]t is always a softly plumy, low tannin, easy-going wine with a strange but unmistakable waft of sea air about it. Despite its strong reliability, it has never become expensive on the export markets, and is often a surefire bet for a modestly priced Italian red with more depth than most of its equals.”
Snooth
“It’s a plush, juicy grape that’s easy to cultivate, with high yields. This has been a blessing to local farmers in an otherwise historically poor section of the country. Many of the younger wines released from the region are easy to drink and food-friendly, found at excellent values. Some producers also take the diligence to release aged Riservas, which have been found to last for decades under the right vinification practices and cellar conditions.”
Katie Kelly Bell, Forbes
“The Montepulciano grape tends to ripen late and produce big juicy berries, which can lend itself to bland, plummy wines. Careful producers who attend to quality produce soft, approachable wines with rustic sensibilities. Although Montepulciano is best consumed young, some can age 4 to 5 years.”
Wine Searcher
“The variety typically provides deeply colored juice (which varies from ruby to purple depending on vintage and the particular winemaking techniques used) with low acidity and soft, unobtrusive tannins.”
Vinodiversity
“The wines made from this variety are typically full bodied with deep colour, spicy and plummy flavours and high levels of tannin. They usually need some bottle age.”
CountryBred
“The wine is characterized by a deep purple and cherry color and exudes notes of spice and red fruit, such as red currants and wild cherry. The intense red fruit taste, although long lasting, demonstrates a lower acidity level than most other Italian red wines.”

Some Montepulcianos to Try

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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