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“Greco” is another one of those grape designations that actually covers a whole set of grapes, some related, many not (as is the case with the Refoschi, the Malvasias, the Muscats, and some others). The Greco set includes Greco, Greco Bianco, Greco Giallo, Greco Moro, Greco Nero (a red-wine grape), Greco Bianco del Pollino, Greco Bianco di Cirò, Greco Bianco di Donnici, Greco Bianco di Lamezia Terme, Greco Bianco di Rogliano, Grecomusc’, Greco Nero di Scilla, and probably some others—you can see why we say the situation is a mess.
To try to keep things simple, what we do with grape sets like “Greco” is deal only with the particular grapes that make wines of at least reasonable quality and that you are likely to be able to readily find available. In this case, that reduces to Greco (the grape actually named just “Greco”) and “Greco Bianco”. (Just to add to the amusement value, Greco Bianco seems to actually be, despite the name, a variety of Malvasia.)
The outstanding Greco-based wine is “Greco di Tufo“ (which, despite much confusion, is only the name of the wine, and not that of any grape); Greco di Tufo is made from Greco grapes grown in the Campania-region appellation of Tufo, whose name derives from its soil, which is believed, probably correctly, to much influence the wines made there.
(We will not deal here with Greco Bianco, though it is a good grape, for several reasons. First, it is mostly used to make sweet dessert wines. Second, there are seemingly countless grapes locally called “Greco Bianco” but which are really something else. Third, production is relatively small. So from here on, we discuss only the one grape properly, and simply, called “Greco”. We also ignore the unusual red grapes called Greco-Something.)
Greco is a white-wine grape presumably (but not certainly, despite the name) originating in Greece, but now of Italian growth. The grape may well be of ancient heritage, having possibly come into Italy over two and a half millennia ago, if it is the same wine described (and praised) by eminent writers from the classical age of Rome; indeed, it may have been a component of the famed Falernian wines of that era.
Greco wines are typically relatively deep in color for whites, and have a profound nose (Jancis Robinson has likened it, in a vague way, to Viognier). The taste, however, is not usually fruit-forward; what fruit there is will be stone fruit, notably peach, though some find pomes instead (apples, pears). There is also usually some citrus-y quality, and most especially substantial minerality. Greco usually has medium to high acidity, making it tart and crisp. Better Greco wines can bottle-age to advantage, and acquire herbal overtones as they do, though there is always a risk of eventual over-oxidation and ruination of the wine.
Greco is one of a trio of white wines that distinguish the Campania region: Greco, Fiano, and Falanghina. As a rough rule of thumb, a vintner who is good at any of those will be good at all of them, and a few notable houses tend to dominate regional production.
Factoid: the tag “Greco”, casually applied to many different (and mostly minor) grape types throughout Italy, derives not so much from their probable origin as from their usual use to make sweet wines—sweet wines being generally thought of then as “Greek” in style, and then being immensely popular.
“Greco bianco wines are noted for their aromatic qualities which some wine experts, such as Jancis Robinson, describing the wines as being vaguely similar to Viognier. Some aromas commonly associated with the grape include peaches and fresh green foliage. With age, Greco wines can develop more herbal notes.”
“Armed with excellent acidity and a fresh, clean, grapey flavor profile, Greco wines are best consumed young. They tend to oxidize in bottle relatively quickly (within just a few years of vintage), resulting in nutty, caramelized flavors.”
“Greco is most famously grown in the province of Avellino—historically known as Irpinia—located inland some 30 miles east of Napoli and the sea. I n and around the town of Tufo—named for the tufaceous soil—the wine is known as Greco di Tufo. This is a dry white with aromas of lemon and pear with notes of almond and a light minerality in the finish. Many Campanian wines—both white and red—are decribed as having mineral flavors, which is due in large parts to the local soils, many of which have been altered by deposits of lava from Mount Vesuvius over the centuries.”
“This is not a mild wine, it is full of personality, and is said to compensate for the gentle nature of the inhabitants of the Irpinia (the mountains that encompass the region) who transformed this hard land with attention and love. Greco di Tufo is truly a particular white wine. Its personality and flavor make it a perfect choice for delicate foods, such as appetizers and fish with butter or white sauces and just as appropriate with quality roasts and medium structured meats.”
“Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino grow in the hills around the city of Avellino. Greco often exhibits a strong minerality in addition to its racy fruit…Falanghina, Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino generally are drunk young, but some bottles can age.”
“Cultivated in the volcanic hills of the Avellino Province, the grapes that go into Greco di Tufo are exposed to a climate that enables them to retain acidity as they ripen. The rich volcanic soil gives the resulting wine its complexity and mineral quality. It also yields notes of citrus, pear and toasted almonds. Only eight villages in the Compania region are legally allowed to call their wine Greco di Tufo and these wines must contain a minimum of 85 percent Greco di Tufo grapes. Greco di Tufo is a surprisingly robust alternative to red wine when enjoying some of the Italian classic dishes. Because of its high acidity, it is the perfect match for fresh tomatoes – in sauces, salads, pasta dishes and more. The medium body wine compliments all types of seafood dishes such as shrimp scampi, clams and calamari.
“Greco is a fairly neutral grape with few primary aromas. But if you succeed with the challenge to conquer all the difficulties then you get a complex and mineral wine with good structure and high acidity. It is not unusual that the acidity is as high as 10 grams per litre. You can feel it in the teeth after having tasted forty different Greco di Tufo during a morning. There is no tradition of aging the Greco di Tufo wines, although according to me they have the potential for ageing, given the high acidity. This was evident when [in 2013] we tried a Greco di Tufo from 2003 from the Pietracupa winery. It was an amazing wine, elegant with a fresh acidity that was toned down somewhat with the age. Scents of dried apricots and citrus followed by a long mellow taste with tones rich in minerality, yes, simply an amazingly good wine. But it was the only older vintage of Greco di Tufo available to taste during the anteprima so it is hard to put it in context.”
“Greco di Tufo is a mineral driven wine that reflects the ancient volcanic chain that makes up the soil in this area. It is a clean refreshing wine that needs to be consumed young. These wines need food as they contain a lot of natural acidity and are not high in ‘fruit’ flavors. They have an almond like quality and some background notes of pears. Although historically a sweet wine, they are almost always vinified completely dry and make great pairings with sea food or salads.”
“As most producers opt not to mature these wines in wood, the aromatic profiles of each stand out, with Greco delivering more lemon and pear aromatics (along with a pleasing note of almond in the nose and the finish)…Greco tends to drink best within five years of the vintage date…Greco tends to be more reserved with slightly higher acidity (in some cases) as well as having a bit more minerality. These estimates about aging are general of course and it’s always a treat to learn about a Greco or Fiano that shows well more than a decade out.”
“Greco di Tufo stands out from the rest of the crowd thanks to the unique characteristics of the sulphur and tufa-rich (hence its name), volcanic and clay-laden soils, which lend the wine its perfume, complexity, and minerality. This refreshing and crisp white is known for its beautiful balance, and is also characterized by its aromatic notes of lemons, pears, toasted almonds and lingering, mineral finish. Greco is generally at its best within two to three years of bottling.”
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Some Descriptions of Greco Wines
“Greco bianco wines are noted for their aromatic qualities which some wine experts, such as Jancis Robinson, describing the wines as being vaguely similar to Viognier. Some aromas commonly associated with the grape include peaches and fresh green foliage. With age, Greco wines can develop more herbal notes.”
“Armed with excellent acidity and a fresh, clean, grapey flavor profile, Greco wines are best consumed young. They tend to oxidize in bottle relatively quickly (within just a few years of vintage), resulting in nutty, caramelized flavors.”
“Greco is most famously grown in the province of Avellino—historically known as Irpinia—located inland some 30 miles east of Napoli and the sea. I n and around the town of Tufo—named for the tufaceous soil—the wine is known as Greco di Tufo. This is a dry white with aromas of lemon and pear with notes of almond and a light minerality in the finish. Many Campanian wines—both white and red—are decribed as having mineral flavors, which is due in large parts to the local soils, many of which have been altered by deposits of lava from Mount Vesuvius over the centuries.”
“This is not a mild wine, it is full of personality, and is said to compensate for the gentle nature of the inhabitants of the Irpinia (the mountains that encompass the region) who transformed this hard land with attention and love. Greco di Tufo is truly a particular white wine. Its personality and flavor make it a perfect choice for delicate foods, such as appetizers and fish with butter or white sauces and just as appropriate with quality roasts and medium structured meats.”
“Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino grow in the hills around the city of Avellino. Greco often exhibits a strong minerality in addition to its racy fruit…Falanghina, Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino generally are drunk young, but some bottles can age.”
“Cultivated in the volcanic hills of the Avellino Province, the grapes that go into Greco di Tufo are exposed to a climate that enables them to retain acidity as they ripen. The rich volcanic soil gives the resulting wine its complexity and mineral quality. It also yields notes of citrus, pear and toasted almonds. Only eight villages in the Compania region are legally allowed to call their wine Greco di Tufo and these wines must contain a minimum of 85 percent Greco di Tufo grapes. Greco di Tufo is a surprisingly robust alternative to red wine when enjoying some of the Italian classic dishes. Because of its high acidity, it is the perfect match for fresh tomatoes – in sauces, salads, pasta dishes and more. The medium body wine compliments all types of seafood dishes such as shrimp scampi, clams and calamari.
“Greco is a fairly neutral grape with few primary aromas. But if you succeed with the challenge to conquer all the difficulties then you get a complex and mineral wine with good structure and high acidity. It is not unusual that the acidity is as high as 10 grams per litre. You can feel it in the teeth after having tasted forty different Greco di Tufo during a morning. There is no tradition of aging the Greco di Tufo wines, although according to me they have the potential for ageing, given the high acidity. This was evident when [in 2013] we tried a Greco di Tufo from 2003 from the Pietracupa winery. It was an amazing wine, elegant with a fresh acidity that was toned down somewhat with the age. Scents of dried apricots and citrus followed by a long mellow taste with tones rich in minerality, yes, simply an amazingly good wine. But it was the only older vintage of Greco di Tufo available to taste during the anteprima so it is hard to put it in context.”
“Greco di Tufo is a mineral driven wine that reflects the ancient volcanic chain that makes up the soil in this area. It is a clean refreshing wine that needs to be consumed young. These wines need food as they contain a lot of natural acidity and are not high in ‘fruit’ flavors. They have an almond like quality and some background notes of pears. Although historically a sweet wine, they are almost always vinified completely dry and make great pairings with sea food or salads.”
“As most producers opt not to mature these wines in wood, the aromatic profiles of each stand out, with Greco delivering more lemon and pear aromatics (along with a pleasing note of almond in the nose and the finish)…Greco tends to drink best within five years of the vintage date…Greco tends to be more reserved with slightly higher acidity (in some cases) as well as having a bit more minerality. These estimates about aging are general of course and it’s always a treat to learn about a Greco or Fiano that shows well more than a decade out.”
“Greco di Tufo stands out from the rest of the crowd thanks to the unique characteristics of the sulphur and tufa-rich (hence its name), volcanic and clay-laden soils, which lend the wine its perfume, complexity, and minerality. This refreshing and crisp white is known for its beautiful balance, and is also characterized by its aromatic notes of lemons, pears, toasted almonds and lingering, mineral finish. Greco is generally at its best within two to three years of bottling.”