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(Synonyms: Kachivela, Mavro, Mavroud, Mavroudi, Mavroudi Boulgarias, Tsiganka.)
Mavrud is a red-wine grape originating in Bulgaria, probably in the vicinity of Asenovgrad (in the West Thracian Valley of southern Bulgaria); it appears to be quite an ancient grape (and wine-making in that region is well established as quite an ancient art: roughly 50 centuries’ ancient). The wine’s name derives from the Greek word mavro, meaning “black”, which gives a clue as to its appearance. Mavrud remains today a virtually exclusive product of Bulgaria.
Mavrud is considered to be an excellent grape, and is slowly starting to become better known in the West (as is its Bulgarian stablemate, Melnik). Mavrud wines are big, dark, tannic and acidic; they are thoroughly age-worthy, and are usually barrel-aged in oak, though by report unoaked renditions are also quite successful; oak-aged wines reputedly acquire overtones of chocolate and cacao. The aromas and flavors are typically of dark fruit: blackberrries, mulberries, and prunes are often cited. There are often also herb/spice qualities as well. The wine itself is medium- to full-bodied, sometimes said to be almost viscous.
Factoid: Mavrud, like many wines, comes with a legend, too silly and tedious to repeat here, but see Wikipedia.
Mavrud is apparently not on anyone’s “hot wine varieties” list. We found a mere 16 bottlings under $20; only 2 are carried by more than one shop (findable by Wine Searcher), and those only at two shops; and only 2 had even received any reviews at all, pro or amateur. (And opening up to all prices only added 2 more one-retailer Mavruds.)
A cursory review of CellarTracker’s Mavrud reviews shows those with any rating at all running in the high 80s, say around 88 average, with some into the low 90s (and CellarTracker user reviews are typically a point or three lower than those of professional wine critics).
Thus, the paucity of decent Mavrud bottlings in the U.S. retail market strongly suggests a definite timidity on the part of those retailers—especially now that Bulgarian wines in general are staring to draw real attention (as here and here).
The simplest source of these (and other Bulgarian wines) is BulgarianWine.com, who have a decent selection and low or no shipping costs (6 bottles ship for $1 each, 12 for free). As we write this, they have three Mavrud bottlings from the Asssenovgrad winery, and have had (and probably will again when shipping is less jammed up) the nice Villa Yambol Mavrud. But there are other retailers who carry the occasional bottling of Mavrud, so keep your eyes open.
Owing to that paucity of retailers and ratings, we present no list for this variety. Sorry: it deserves better.
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Some Descriptions of Mavrud Wines
“The grape has been described as a characterful, low-yielding, small-berried and late-ripening grape capable of producing tannic, spicy wine with a potential for ageing.”
“[T]he wines it produces usually are of an inky color. They also have pronounced tannins and excellent acidity, with an abundance of stewed-fruit flavors on the palate, which gives a glycerol mouth-feel. It also has a herbal characteristic, giving the wine a medicinal finish. It certainly does not lack character.”
“The wines made from Mavrud have a deep ruby color, enough tannin and acids and a pleasant blackberry and prune aroma. Mavrud wines develop perfectly in contact with oak and acquire a powerful and complex aroma, supplemented by full-bodied, dense and harmonious taste.”
“[T]hese features lead to a fruity and spicy varietal with high amount of tannins, distinguished maturing capacity, excellent acidity, local character and applauded for good quality…The wines produced from Mavrud show a very dark ruby color and a pleasing aroma of mulberry, prune and blackberry. Mavrud wines grow completely when kept in touch with oak wood and obtain a complex and strong aroma, enhanced by harmonious, dense and full-bodied taste.”
“Mavrud wines have a deep ruby color and are filled with tannins and acids. The flavor is distinctive, with blackberry and mulberry notes. Mature wines develop touches of cacao and chocolate as well. Ideally, Mavrud wines should mature in oak barrels to develop massive, complex aromas and a dense harmonic flavor.”
“Named after the Greek word for ‘black’, these fruits produce dry, deep ruby–colored wines. Winemakers age the grape must in oak barrels, which creates a finished product resembling a lightly-oaked malbec. Fans describe the flavor as medium-bodied and tannic, evoking crushed cherry, mulberry, prune, and notes of chocolate.”
“This late-ripening, dark-skinned grape particularly thrives in warmer climates, and it is used in the production of single varietal wines and blends. Varietal Mavrud is typically a medium-bodied wine, with firm tannins, good acidity, and deep ruby red color. It usually comes off as rich and fruity, with typical aromas of prunes, ripe mulberries, or blackberries, and usually has a spicy, herbaceous finish.”
“Balkan vine with real potential to produce intensely rich yet dry and tannic wine, a speciality of Assenovgrad near Plovdiv in Bulgaria.”
“At its best, Mavrud makes deep coloured wines with plenty of tannin and acidity. This structure is countered by attractive notes of blueberry, preen and often complex herbal aromas, particularly menthol or eucalyptus. Seemingly able to produce impressive wines with or without oak, it’s a grape that can probably produce long lasting wines, certainly up to six or seven years beyond the vintage. In reality they can probably live on far beyond this, but I’ve never tasted anything serious that demonstrates this.”
“An indigenous variety that exudes rich, crushed cherry and chocolate-like flavors on a medium body. To a newcomer, these wines have a similar profile to a lightly-oaked Malbec, along with the same striking magenta-tinged rim. Quality is still somewhat variable, so read tasting notes before buying.”
“The wine from Mavrud has a ruby red color…It has a distinct aroma, with noticeable nuances of blackberry or mulberry…Mavrud is noted for its full-bodied taste and superb bouquet of fruits. Sometimes, even spices are felt.”