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(Synonyms: Grecanico Dorato, Malvasia de Manresa.)
Garganega is a white-wine grape originating in the Veneto region of Italy, around Venice. It is rarely encountered on wine-bottle labels, and perhaps you think you’ve never heard of it, but it is the informing grape of the widely popular wine Soave (Soave labels never mention Garganega). Soave can be and often is a blend of Garganega with various other local grapes; but all those others are considered rather inferior, and the best Soaves are all 100% Garganega.
While Garganega has also been successful in producing sweet wines, here we concentrate on it as a table wine. A well-made Soave that is 100% Garganega will typically be a gentle wine whose taste is characterized by a light overtone of almond atop some lighter citrus fruit, and with a drinking quality that frequently evokes references to pears (a slight “graininess”). A well-made Soave is a major wine indeed.
Factoid: Northern Italians have been praising Soave since at least the 6th Century, when Cassiodorus—a statesman of King Theoderic the Great—described them as being “white and pure as a lily“.
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Some Descriptions of Garganega Wines
“In the Classico zone of Soave, where yields are most often kept in check, the grape can produce a delicate wine with lemon, almond and spicy notes…In the fertile flatlands outside the Soave Classico zone, the grape can produce excessively high yields that lead to very thin and neutral flavored wines.”
“[T]he classic Garganega wine is marked out by aromas of peach blossom, almond, apricot and baked golden apples…Winemakers also appreciate the grape for its high yields, but perhaps more so for its moderate acidity, elegant perfume and high concentration of aroma compounds. This useful combination of qualities allows them to establish their own balance between quality and quantity. Regrettably (for consumers, at least) many Soave producers have long erred on the side of quantity, giving Soave a far less impressive reputation than it otherwise could have. In the end, it may prove to be a blessing that Garganega’s name is not associated with these lower quality wines; the name remains unknown, but untarnished.”
“An important Italian white that’s loved for its lean, dry style that gains rich tangerine and toasted almond notes as it ages.”
“Today, the exciting spotlight is on producers that have been taking garganega to the next level by pruning back vines to reduce yields, which accelerates ripeness for more flavourful berries…At their best, garganega wines are light-medium-bodied, with a rounded core displaying flavours of pear, white plum, almond, citrus and gentle spice, always tightly tucked in by crisp acidity.”
“Garganega grape is typically grown in two regions of Italy [Veneto & Sicily] and whichever end it is grown in, it is marked out by intense aromas of almond, peach blossoms, apricot & baked golden apples…Garganega wines typically have a rich texture along with concentrated aromas of candied lemon peel, honey, sweet spices & tropical fruits.”
“In the 'Classico' wine zone of Soave, where yields are controlled and kept low, the grape can produce a delicate wine with citrus, almond and dried herb notes…Garganega reflects the environment and the manner in which it is grown. In cooler sites it exhibits flinty, green apple characteristics as well as good structure derived from its well-defined acidity. Warmer sites produce wines with a delicate expression, with citrus and stone-fruit flavours. However, all of these characteristics can be easily diluted if the vines are allowed to follow their natural inclination to over crop. ”
“The Garganega grape is present with several key clones, such as Garganega Tipica (most common), Garganega Dario or Grassa (more common in flat areas), Garganega Verde (most common in the hills near Soave) and Garganega Agostega (earlier and more susceptible to disease, almost totally abandoned today)…Wines made from the Garganega grape are of pale yellow in color with a delicate fruity aroma, medium body, good acidity, balanced and velvety. Great aromatic richness with simple, floral perfumes, and more complex (aromatic herbs and minerals).”