The Jacquère Grape

(Synonyms: Cugnette, Jacquerre, Jacquère, Martin-Cot, Molette de Montmélian, Plant des Abîmes, Plant des Abymes de Myans, Raisin des Abîme, Redin, Robinet, Roussette.)

Background

Jacquère is a white-wine grape originating in the Savoy region of France. Abymes and Apremont are the two villages in the Vin de Savoie that are responsible for the largest volume of production and, by all accounts, the best specimens. In those appellations, Jacquère must, by law, be at least 80% of the wine, but in practice is usually the full 100%. Outside of Savoy, plantings are few and limited.

Jacquère is what is commonly called a “mountain wine” (often more specifically an “Alpine wine”). By that is meant a white wine that is fairly simple but with high acids, low alcohol, good minerality, and some light fruit overtones. Such wines are usually called “refreshing”, and are seen as a pleasant alternative to big, gutsy wines. They are especially good with light foods (and are virtually the mandatory accompaniment to a fondue). Though there are several grapes in that category, many feel that Jacquère is the nonpareil of the lot.

Factoid: The town named Abymes (from Abîme, “abyss”) and that named Apremont (“after the mountain” or, arguably, “bitter mountain”) derive from a terrible earthquake in 1248, when an estimated 17,000 to 18,000 cubic feet of rubble crashed down from Mt. Granier, devasting the area (thousands died) in what is probably the worst landslide in European history; the area was barren for centuries, but eventually the re-settlers put in vineyards.

Some Descriptions of Jacquère Wines

Wikipedia
“It is a high-yielding vine variety which is used to produce lightly scented, refreshing and gently aromatic dry white wine, such as Vin de Savoie. Jacquère is the grape used in Apremont wines and is the usual wine paired with cheese fondue (a dish from the same region). It is also found in Bugey wines.”
Wine Searcher
“Jacquère is a clean and fresh alpine white grape variety grown in Savoie, France. The white wines of Jacquère are highly prized but traditionally hard to come by outside France…The wines have high acidity, characteristic of cool climate vines, and are often described as ‘mountain fresh’ or ‘alpine clean’. They can also be quite herbaceous and show aromas of freshly cut grass, green apples and pears. A Jacquère is usually best consumed young, while it still displays its clean minerality and lively citrus palate.”
Decanter
“[A] great Abymes or Apremont can represent the essence of the mountain wine ideal more memorably than any other in Savoie, and perhaps in Europe more generally. It is indeed always light in alcohol. Even when produced from older vines and October-harvested, it rarely exceeds 11.5%; its natural state, if you like, is one of aerial lightness. Its flavours are sculpted by fresh, sappy acidity, but at the same time it is not burdened by excessive or overt fruit flavours. It whispers stone rather than singing fruit. Lees contact can add a little descreet creaminess of texture – though a spritz, contrariwise, can give it even more lift and pungency. You’ll find both styles. Above all, it’s mouthwatering; its natural balance tends to and trends towards that…No Roussanne or Altesse can match it for sheer downhill glee.”
Wine Folly
“It produces early-drinking, low alcohol, lively dry wines. Flavors range from floral (white flowers) and fruity (pear, white peach, grapefruit) to mineral and flinty.”
World’s Best Wines
“Wines made from Jacquère grape are light pale yellow in colour. The grape makes dry white wines which are very lightly scented. The aroma is of peach, green apple and freshly cut grass. Jacquère grape wines with a high level of acidic content. They taste best when consumed young. If aged some false taste might develop. They are usually referred to as alpine-clean or mountain-fresh. The citric flavour and aroma this variety has is among the best high acidic wines produced in the region.”
Winegeeks
“ Wines from the Jacquère are often very light, higher in acidity, and crisp with scents of fresh grass and flavors of citrus fruits.”
Good Food Revolution: The Grape Hunter
“ Interestingly enough, even with this rasping acidity there tends to be very little fruit in these wines, as they are more mineral driven than anything else. If there is any it tends to be just slightly under ripe peach, something I happen to be quite into myself. Acid freaks will undoubtedly find salvation in this varietal. Writer Andrew Jefford speaks of it ‘whispering stone rather than singing fruit’ which, in my mind, captures the essence of these intriguing wines. Some producers choose to give it a bit of lees action, and in my experience this does add some texture, but also a touch of petillance that can be quite attractive.”

Some Jacquères to Try

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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