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The Blaufränkisch Grape


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About Blaufränkisch

(Synonyms: Blauer Limberger, Borgonja, Burgund Mare, Franconia, Franconia Nero, Frankovka, Frankovka Modrá, Frankovka Crna, Gamé, Kékfrankos, Lemberger, Limberger, Modra Frankinja, Nagyburgundi, Sura Liscina.)

Background

Map showing the Franconia region of Germany

Blaufränkisch is a red-wine grape probably originating in the Franconia region of what is today Germany; indeed, Blaufränkisch simply means “blue wine of Franconia”. Its more common name in American viticulture, Lemberger, arose in Germany because during the 19th century the wine was imported to there from Lemberg, a location in Lower Styria (now a part of Slovenia, then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire).

The grape’s history probably extends back into the middle ages, though the first definite mention of it was not till 1862. As the “synonyms” list above shows, it—like many older grapes—has had a myriad of names, but the only other one an American is likely to see on a bottle beside Lemberger or Blaufränkisch is Kékfrankos (the Hungarian version of the name).

The wine is not a big part of the American wine market, probably for several reasons. One is the multitude of names, all complex for the average American to read or pronounce; and the simplest and most widely used by American wineries making it, Lemberger, is likely too suggestive of the stong-smelling Limburger cheese (to which it has absolutely zero relation). Another reason is that while the grape can make quite good wine, it remains relatively obscure on the world market; indeed, quality wines of this grape in modern times probably go no farther back than a couple of decades.

A typical Blaufränkisch is something that doesn’t exist, there being two main and diverse styles: one is a strong, full-bodied wine reminescent of some of California’s bigger Zinfandels; the other is lighter and softer, reminiscent of a better Pinot Noir. What is common to both styles, however, is a bluish-red color and a somewhat “spicy” nose and taste. The underlying taste elements are typical of good reds, notably dark-berry flavors such as black cherry, blackberry, or red currant— plus that grace note of spiciness. All versions will age, but some are vinified for it and will turn into smooth, almost silky wines, while others, more assertive and fruit-forward, want little bottle aging.

Besides eastern and central Europe, Blaufränkisch/Lemberger is vinified in Australia and the U.S., the latter mostly in Washington State. In Europe, Austria is today the leading producer.

In its native regions, styles vary. Some differences are attributed to region: Blaufränkisch from Austria’s Neusiedlersee-Hügelland region is often said to be “richer and more full bodied”, while elsewhere the overtones of spiciness are more pronounced. Austrian Blaufränkisch of the ordinary sort, such as Mittleburgenland DAC Classic, tend to be lighter renditions, and are typically unoaked; wines labelled Burgenland DAC Reserve show greater body and are typically oak-aged.

While the wine is made throughout the wine-making world, it is chiefly in Washington State that New World Lemberger is grown (though Australia is apparently starting to ramp up its production of Blaufränkisch wines). In Washington, styles also vary, again ranging from light, Pinot-like renditions to heavier Zinfandel-like versions, on even to fortified wines in the style of port. Nowadays, some makers are trying to avoid the false Lemberger/Limburger association by calling their wines from this grape by various proprietary names (such as “Blue Franc”). To the extent that Washington Lembergers share qualities, they are those of being fairly dark in both appearance and flavor (notably dark berries, such as black cherry), with spicy and pepper overtones—in other words, the leading characteristics of the grape. The relative lack of domestic interest in Blaufränkisch/Lemberger makes the wines something of a steal for selective—we emphasize that word—bargain hunters (because better Austrian bottlings can get pricey fast).

Factoid: Blaufränkisch has been called “the Pinot Noir of the East” owing to its popularity and reputation throughout Eastern Europe.

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Some Descriptions of Blaufränkisch Wines

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Some Blaufränkischs to Try

(About this list.)

Vina Kobal Blaufränkisch

• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.



Anita und Hans Nittnaus “Kalk und Schiefer” Blaufränkisch
(“Kalk und Schiefer” means “limestone & shale”.)

• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.



Prieler Johanneshohe Blaufränkisch

• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.



Gernot and Heike Heinrich Blaufränkisch
(There are several Heinrich wineries and often several bottlings each; this is from the Gernot and Heike Heinrich winery and is their “Burgenland” bottling.)

• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.



Wachter-Wiesler Bela-Joska Blaufränkisch

• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.

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For a Splurge

We feel that there is nothing significantly better than the bottlings listed above available for less than $100, and so make no “splurge” recommendation.

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.