The Blaufränkisch Grape

(Synonyms: Blauer Limberger, Borgonja, Burgund Mare, Franconia, Franconia Nero, Frankovka, Frankovka Modrá, Frankovka Crna, Gamé, Kékfrankos, Lemberger, Limberger, Modra Frankinja, Nagyburgundi, Sura Liscina.)

Background

Blaufränkisch is a red-wine grape probably originating in the Franconia region of what is today Germany; indeed, Blaufränkisch simply means “blue wine of Franconia”. Its more common name in American viticulture, Lemberger, arose in Germany because during the 19th century the wine was imported to there from Lemberg, a location in Lower Styria (now a part of Slovenia, then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire).

The grape’s history probably extends back into the middle ages, though the first definite mention of it was not till 1862. As the “synonyms” list above shows, it—like many older grapes—has had a myriad of names, but the only other one an American is likely to see on a bottle beside Lemberger or Blaufränkisch is Kékfrankos (the Hungarian version of the name).

The wine is not a big part of the American wine market, probably for several reasons. One is the multitude of names, all complex for the average American to read or pronounce; and the simplest and most widely used by American wineries making it, Lemberger, is likely too suggestive of the stong-smelling Limburger cheese (to which it has absolutely zero relation). Another reason is that while the grape can make quite good wine, it remains relatively obscure on the world market; indeed, quality wines of this grape in modern times probably go no farther back than a couple of decades.

A typical Blaufränkisch is something that doesn’t exist, there being two main and diverse styles: one is a strong, full-bodied wine reminescent of some of California’s bigger Zinfandels; the other is lighter and softer, reminiscent of a better Pinot Noir. What is common to both styles, however, is a bluish-red color and a somewhat “spicy” nose and taste. The underlying taste elements are typical of good reds, notably dark-berry flavors such as black cherry, blackberry, or red currant— plus that grace note of spiciness. All versions will age, but some are vinified for it and will turn into smooth, almost silky wines, while others, more assertive and fruit-forward, want little bottle aging.

Besides eastern and central Europe, Blaufränkisch/Lemberger is vinified in Australia and the U.S., the latter mostly in Washington State. In Europe, Austria is today the leading producer.

In its native regions, styles vary. Some differences are attributed to region: Blaufränkisch from Austria’s Neusiedlersee-Hügelland region is often said to be “richer and more full bodied”, while elsewhere the overtones of spiciness are more pronounced. Austrian Blaufränkisch of the ordinary sort, such as Mittleburgenland DAC Classic, tend to be lighter renditions, and are typically unoaked; wines labelled Burgenland DAC Reserve show greater body and are typically oak-aged.

While the wine is made throughout the wine-making world, it is chiefly in Washington State that New World Lemberger is grown (though Australia is apparently starting to ramp up its production of Blaufränkisch wines). In Washington, styles also vary, again ranging from light, Pinot-like renditions to heavier Zinfandel-like versions, on even to fortified wines in the style of port. Nowadays, some makers are trying to avoid the false Lemberger/Limburger association by calling their wines from this grape by various proprietary names (such as “Blue Franc”). To the extent that Washington Lembergers share qualities, they are those of being fairly dark in both appearance and flavor (notably dark berries, such as black cherry), with spicy and pepper overtones—in other words, the leading characteristics of the grape. The relative lack of domestic interest in Blaufränkisch/Lemberger makes the wines something of a steal for selective—we emphasize that word—bargain hunters (because better Austrian bottlings can get pricey fast).

Factoid: Blaufränkisch has been called “the Pinot Noir of the East” owing to its popularity and reputation throughout Eastern Europe.

Some Descriptions of Blaufränkisch Wines

Wikipedia
“In Austria, Blaufränkisch tends to produce deeply colored wines with dark fruit aromas, peppery spice notes and moderate to high acidity. Depending on where it is produced the wine can be unoaked, or spend some time aging in the barrel. The unoaked styles tend to be lighter bodied while the oaked versions tend to be more fuller bodied. In Germany…the grape tends to make more light bodied wines with softer tannins than the style typically made in Austria. . . According to wine expert Paul Gregutt, Washington Lembergers are characterized by their ‘blood red’ color, with light peppery spice aromas and flavors of ripe berry fruit.”
Wine Searcher
“The common feature in Blaufrankisch wines from all of these places is a fruit-forward profile with aromas of spiced black cherries. . Classic Austrian Blaufrankisch wines are intensely colored, medium-bodied reds with brooding, black-fruit flavors and a hint of peppery spice.”
Tyler Colman , Forbes
“While Blaufränkisch is hardly a household wine term, it has risen from nothing in 1995 to, well, more than nothing. During that time, growers in eastern Austria, the grape’s ancestral home, have started to take care with the grape to plant it in good sites, reduce yields and stop blending it with other varieties. It was a smart move. . . [I]n non-wine-nerd terms, it’s a grape that delivers in many styles and, thus, could have broad appeal. When I asked winemaker Roli Velich of the Moric winery which grape was the most apt comparison for Blaufränkisch, he suggested no fewer than three: pinot noir from Burgundy, Syrah from the Northern Rhone, and Nebbiolo from Piedmont. I could see the blend of finesse, power and aromatic intrigue that he invoked across the wines that afternoon. . The only trouble with Blaufränkisch is that even though it’s only been a decade-and-half since the grape had trouble selling, now the wines are pricey and difficult to find. [Wine writer David] Schildknecht argued that, like pinot noir, it is very difficult and thus best to avoid making low-priced Blaufränkisch.”
Andy Perdue, Yakima Herald
“Wines from Lemberger grapes are often smooth, rich and approachable. . . Though it’s a wine that everyone seems to love, Lemberger’s fortunes always have been tied to its unfortunate name, a moniker that evokes thoughts of stinky cheese rather than a deliciously smooth and fruity red wine. Today, fewer than a dozen Washington wineries make Lemberger, and acreage in Washington has dwindled to perhaps 85.”
Austrian Wine
“The typical palate of this late ripening variety is characterized by deep wood berry or cherry tones, and reveals its characteristic acidity. Blaufränkisch can yield wines with dense structure and prominent tannins. The wines are often impetuous in their youth, but develop velvety facets when sufficiently ripe. Fuller, stronger versions have good ageing potential.”
Eric Asimov, The New York Times
“[N]othing scares wine consumers so much as an umlaut. . . The Blaufränkisch grape is grown mostly in Austria, where it makes a spicy red wine that can be graceful yet intense, complex yet tangy and refreshing. Blaufränkisch is made as well in Germany, where it is often called lemberger, which, if you think about it, is really no better than Blaufränkisch, umlaut or not. Even five years ago [as of 2011], Blaufränkisch wines were not easy to find in the United States, and the ones I found I didn’t like much. Many producers seemed to be aiming for weight and power rather than finesse. The results were heavy-handed, stolid wines of little grace and a lot of oak. Without a doubt, things have changed. The turning point for me came a couple of years ago, at a tasting of Blaufränkisch wines that had been made with great care, from grapes grown in cooler sites and with more restraint in the cellar. These wines I loved, and I have been seeking them out ever since. . Our favorites [at a tasting] were beautifully balanced, with smoky, spicy fruit flavors, winning textures and a rippling acidity that made them seem juicy, savory and refreshing. We found a clear continuum from light-bodied, subtle wines to denser, richer wines that in the best examples betrayed no heaviness. Our favorites, especially among the lighter-bodied wines, showed a versatility with food that reminded me of a slightly peppery pinot noir, while the denser versions were a little closer in richness and texture to syrah.”
Wine Folly
“Blaufränkisch is Austria’s champion age-worthy red wine with a vein of acidity and big tannins to boot. They’re often a little harsh when young but Blaufränkisch wines become wonderfully subtle and lush with age. Expect blackberry, tart cherry, and an elegant citrus-like spice in Blaufränkisch wines along with a pronounced burst of tannins in the mid-palate.”
Wine For Normal People
“Lemberger is a mixed bag. It’s a dark skinned and can have good mouth-drying tannin and spice but it can also make light, wussy wine that’s not that good. It’s grown all over central Europe — in the Burgenland region of Austria, where the wines are called Blaufränkisch and are pretty highly regarded, in the Czech Republic, in Slovenia, in Croatia, and in Hungary where it’s a main component of the Egri Bikaver (aka, Bull’s Blood, a blended wine that can be powerful or awful depending on the producer).”
StarChefs
“A Blaufrankisch wine is typically medium-bodied, with a strong, food-friendly acidic spine and sometimes rustic tannins. The nose tends toward cherries and berries, with strong supporting aromas of smoke, spice and black pepper than can turn toward a pronounced gaminess on occasion. In Austria the trend of late has been to wrap it all up with some new French Oak, smoothing out the wine’s mouthfeel, and, in the best examples, rounding out those spicy characteristics into a pipe tobacco and chocolate mélange.”
Jancis Robinson
“On the warm, gentle shores of the shallow Neusiedlersee Lake, Blaufränkisch reaches such levels of ripeness that it is a serious yet juicy wine, always with a refreshing level of acidity too and quite respectable tannins. This bracing yet ultra-fruity quality in the wines produced by this variety has led some commentators to compare the wines with a fine cru Beaujolais and may explain the name under which it travels in Bulgaria, Gamé, presumably a word inspired by the Beaujolais grape Gamay. . . Today the best examples can be racy, lively red table wines but in another era, in a much darker, sweeter, almost porty form, it was singled out for praise by Napoleon.”
Blue Danube Wine Company
“This black dark berried grape variety is widely planted in Austria and Central Europe. It produces dark crimson, almost mid-night blue wine of powerful character, with vibrant acidity, firm tannins and zesty fruit flavors of blackberries, red cherries and currants intertwined with mineral notes. In its youth this Austrian specialty is an impetuous deeply fruity red wine with tones of liquorish, which with aging becomes velvety and supple. Today it also can be made in an international style in new oak barriques, reminiscent of Syrah with strong color, tannin and raciness. Beguiling black fruit and ripe tannins and deep bouquet reminiscent of Rhone wines.”

Some Blaufränkischs to Try

For a Splurge

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