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(Synonyms: Geisenheim 9-93)
Ehrenfelser is a white-wine grape, a modern varietal cross made in 1929 in Germany: it is a cross of Riesling with an unknown partner, long but erroneously thought to be Silvaner (aka Sylvaner). It is still primarily a German grape, though it is now widely planted in British Columbia, owing to its ability to be productive in cold climates (being a quite early-ripening type).
Ehrenfelser was an attempt to develop a Riesling-like grape that could ripen in a broader range of climates. It can indeed ripen in cool, almost cold, climates, but it does not have either the complexity or anything like the aging potential of Riesling. Kerner has largely superseded it in that role, though it makes reputedly good ice wine in British Columbia.)
The bottom line, however, is not the grape’s potential but the actual wines being made from it. It is hard to say how much Ehrenfelser winemaking goes on in Germany and Austria, because little or no Ehrenfelser from those countries reaches the U.S. We do know, however, that its plantings are declining: in Germany in 1999, 630 acres were in, whereas current estimates are 225 acres.
There is a fair bit of Ehrenfelser table wine made in British Columbia, but, again, little or none reaches the U.S. (NAFTA— or whatever it’s called these days—seems irrelevant to Demon Rum, and shipoments of alcoholic beverages even within Canada, and the U.S., are ridiculously over-regulated; cross-border shipment is for all practical pusposes impossible). The B.C. wines seem mainly made in a fruit-forward, off-dry style, which may not maximize the grape’s potential but which works commercially for a generally obscure grape.
Factoid: The name "Ehrenfelser" derives from the Burg Ehrenfels ruins, located on the Rhine near Rüdesheim.
Frankly, there just aren’t any, at least if you’re in the U.S.A. If you’re in (or travel to) Canada, that’s another matter. (Of course, if you want to bring any back with you, you encounter the insane customs laws of both countries, and good luck with that.)
Critics tend to rate this varietal high, but that (presumably) is because of the importance of the icewines to those who fancy extravagantly sweet, rich dessert wines. Chacun à son goüt.
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>Some Descriptions of Ehrenfelser Wines
“The grape tends to ripen earlier and produce higher yields than Riesling but its quality is not on par with that of this, its parent grape. The variety normally consistently produces grapes of at least Kabinett level ripeness and tends to produce well in vineyards where Riesling has difficulties.”
“Significant amounts of Ehrenfelser are found in the Okanagan region of British Columbia. This cross of Riesling and Sylvaner has become a highly-valued commodity in the western province. Developed in 1929 at Germany’s Geisenheim Research Station, many consider Ehrenfelser, along with Kerner, as the best of the frost-resistant Riesling substitutes. It ripens slightly earlier than Riesling and grows in less ideal vineyard sites. Typically, it also produces more fruit than its noble parent, given the same conditions. Its only real disadvantage, aside from its hard to pronounce name, is its slight lack of acidity. Due to this lack of acid, wines made from Ehrenfelser do not share the same cellaring potential of Riesling.”
“The acreage of honor Felsers are rapidly declining. In 1999 about 255 acres were planted, but there were only about 100 acres in 2007. Of these, some 32 hectares lie in the Palatinate; there is also some in the Middle Rhine, Rheingau, on the Nahe and Rheinhessen. Even in Berlin there are 100 vines of this variety (‘Rüdesheim Place’) through an existing partnership with the Rheingau. Smaller plantings are also found abroad, in Australia, the U.K., and Canada. With Ehrenfelser was created a grape that comes close to the quality of the world’s most noble grape – Riesling. In cultivation, Ehrenfelser is less demanding than Riesling, being but little sensitive to late spring frosts; also, powdery, downy mildew, and gray mold have small effect on it. Competition with Riesling is strong. Ehrenfelser’s acid can in some years reach high values, similar to those of Riesling; but it lacks Riesling’s quality and character. Thus, it is regarded as suited for otherwise-spare growing areas. Ehrenfelser wines have a racy acidity, are very fruity, and have a decent bouquet, reminiscent of violets. And its flavors—such as apricot, grapefruit, peach and apple--give this wine a special touch and can make great vintages.”
“Extremely frost resistant, the Ehrenfelser was created to provide Riesling quality in colder climates. Success was close, but the Ehrenfelser suffers from very low natural acidity, thus it is best consumed young and has not potential for long-term aging. Found in the German regions of Pfalz and Rheinhessen, though it is most prominent in Canada. Ehrenfelsers have aromas and flavors reminiscent of apples, pears and white flowers.”
“This white grape was developed in the late 1920s in Germany and is a cross of Riesling and Silvaner. Many consider the grape to be superior in ripening and flavor to Riesling. It is named for the Ehrenfels Castle on the Rhine River. In the [Pacific] Northwest, it’s grown primarily in British Columbia, where it results in a tasty dry or off-dry table wine. It really shines as an ice wine, thanks to its fruit-driven flavors and solid acidity.”
“A good-quality, white-wine, hybrid grape developed at geisenheim, Germany in the 1920s. Ehrenfelser is a cross of riesling and sylvaner that-except for its lower acid levels-closely resembles Riesling. It has some advantages over Riesling in that Ehrenfelser grows in less desirable locations and ripens earlier, which makes it increasingly popular in some of Germany’s northern growing regions.”
“The resulting grape is not held in as high esteem as Riesling, but can produce very nice wines in the hands of an expert.”
“Riesling’s sturdier brother. An excellent white wine hybrid grape developed in Germany in the 1920s that closely resembles Riesling—it’s actually a cross of Riesling and Silvaner. Ehrenfelser has the advantage in colder climes, however, as it’s less susceptible to frost. For that reason, the grape is often grown in northern Germany and has been planted recently in British Columbia. Ehrenfelser makes good ice wine because of its high sugar content.”