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(Synonyms: Sommarrello, Sumarello, Summariello, Tranese, Troiano, Uva della Marina, Uva di Barletta, Uva di Canosa, Uva di Troia.)
Pronunciation: NEH-ro dee TROW-ya[aka OO-va dee TROW-ya]
Background
Nero di Troia is an ancient red-wine grape originating in the north of the Puglia region of Italy (the “boot heel”). It was long known as “Uva di Troia” (meaning “grape of Troia”, a town in Foggia), but early in the 21st century producers decided that “Nero di Troia” sounded better (and perhaps evoked associations—which do not exist—between it and the increasingly popular Nero d’Avola of Sicily. Note, though, that “Uva di Troia”, though becoming ever less common, remains its “official” name in Italy.
In a familiar story, Nero di Troia is yet another Italian grape that had faded into obscurity only to have its fortunes wildly altered by the modern movement toward the “re-discovery” of neglected grapes, especially in Italy. In the 21st century, it has jumped—nay, skyrocketed—from that obscurity into stardom. And, by all accounts, rightfully so.
Nero di Troia makes high-tannin wines that are generally best drunk young. Its aromas and flavors are rather complex: one reads of “camomile, verveine, liquorice, juniper…sour cherries, dried herbs, and olives” (Jancis Robinson, Wine Grapes), or “red cherries, red currants, black pepper, tobacco, and underbrush” (Ian D’Agata in Native Wine Grapes of Italy). One would think any wine so interestingly described well worth trying.
Factoid: The town of Troia—whence the grape’s name—was, according to dubious legend, founded by the hero Diomedes after he participated in the Greek conquest of classical Troy. (He is said to have founded nearly a dozen Italian towns.)
“Uva di Troia may be used by itself or can be blended with such grapes as Bombino nero, Montepulciano and Sangiovese. Where DOC wines are concerned, the grape is the principal component of the wines Rosso Barletta and Rosso Canosa; Castel del Monte may also be produced as a pure Uva di Troia variety; it is also used in Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera (35-60%), Orta Nova (up to 40%) and Rosso di Cerignola. Also, in the small town of Troia, just across the Monti Dauni, a variety of wine called Nero di Troia is now being produced. ”
“Uva di Troia tends to be low yielding, which has in part contributed to its steady decline over the years despite producing good-quality, full-bodied wines. Uva di Troia wines are generally dry with high-alcohol and moderate acidity. The variety produces big, compact clusters of medium-sized, thick-skinned berries, a characteristic that gives Uva di Troia wines good structure and tannins. Typical flavors include raspberry, cherry, dark forest fruits and plums through to licorice and spice.”
“Aromas of violets, red and black fruits with notes of vanilla, star anise, herbs and spice. These are followed by flavors of raspberry, cherry, plum and blackberry along with cedar, tobacco, leather and dark chocolate, leading to a persistent finish. Medium to full body, medium acidity. Best enjoyed within a few years of the vintage, but the best wines improve for up to 10 years…Many believe, with good reason, that Nero di Troia produces some of the best and most interesting wines in Puglia. It certainly deserves more attention internationally, and also within Italy.”
“Difficult to grow, the vine was uprooted mainly, it would appear, by growers lacking passion, patience and resources to produce quality juice. What’s left has generally been treated with better attention, helping to elevate the vine’s reputation. Besides that, over the past 20 years, a growing number of producers have been bottling the grape as a varietal wine rather than following the custom of mixing it with other varieties into blended reds named after local districts rather than grapes…[I]t tends to yield wines that are medium-bodied and sturdy…There’s often a savoury, tobacco-and-tar quality to the wines, too, along with a mixed-berry character, placing them, I think, in the centre of a Venn diagram that overlaps pinot noir with syrah and nebbiolo.”
“It is only in the last 15 years that the variety is emerging as a flavoursome, qualitative grape variety, and one made as a single varietal wine…On the basis of a small tasting, it’s worth the effort to get that mix of herbs, aromatic spices, graphite, plums and cherry fruit in a wine that’s not hugely full bodied.”
“Nero di Troia wine has a lively colour and an elegantly fresh bouquet with typical hints of violets; it is not particularly acidic on the palate, but is rich in polyphenols and especially tannins, which may become overpowering if the wine comes from grapes which are not perfectly ripe…Nero di Troia has an elegant bouquet of cherry, blackcurrant, black pepper, tobacco, and greenery, and a strikingly silky feel on the palate, containing plenty of well-balanced acidity and noticeable but refined tannins.”
“There’s a new found belief and expertise that is already beginning to coax the best from this grape ‘in purezza’ (that’s 100% to us). Even though its official registered grape name is still ‘Uva di Troia’ (Grape from Troia), the producers have opted to get behind its revitalised identity as ‘Nero di Troia’. And you know what, we get behind them on this. Nero di Troia is already producing exceptional 100% varietals. Elegant reds that are a match for Puglia’s other principal red varieties – Primitivo and Negro Amaro. ”
“Nero di Troia wine has a lively colour and an elegantly fresh bouquet with typical hints of violets; it is not particularly acidic on the palate, but is rich in polyphenols and especially tannins.”
“Typical characteristics of Nero di Troia wines are the notes of geranium, violet, and clove, as well as red fruit, such as cherries. It is a well-balanced wine with smooth tannins. In a discussion, when we visited D’Alfonso del Sordo winery, it was said that Nero di Troia wines are more similar to the wines of northern Italy due to their balanced acidity and elegant touch.”
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Some Descriptions of Nero di Troia Wines
“Uva di Troia may be used by itself or can be blended with such grapes as Bombino nero, Montepulciano and Sangiovese. Where DOC wines are concerned, the grape is the principal component of the wines Rosso Barletta and Rosso Canosa; Castel del Monte may also be produced as a pure Uva di Troia variety; it is also used in Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera (35-60%), Orta Nova (up to 40%) and Rosso di Cerignola. Also, in the small town of Troia, just across the Monti Dauni, a variety of wine called Nero di Troia is now being produced. ”
“Uva di Troia tends to be low yielding, which has in part contributed to its steady decline over the years despite producing good-quality, full-bodied wines. Uva di Troia wines are generally dry with high-alcohol and moderate acidity. The variety produces big, compact clusters of medium-sized, thick-skinned berries, a characteristic that gives Uva di Troia wines good structure and tannins. Typical flavors include raspberry, cherry, dark forest fruits and plums through to licorice and spice.”
“Aromas of violets, red and black fruits with notes of vanilla, star anise, herbs and spice. These are followed by flavors of raspberry, cherry, plum and blackberry along with cedar, tobacco, leather and dark chocolate, leading to a persistent finish. Medium to full body, medium acidity. Best enjoyed within a few years of the vintage, but the best wines improve for up to 10 years…Many believe, with good reason, that Nero di Troia produces some of the best and most interesting wines in Puglia. It certainly deserves more attention internationally, and also within Italy.”
“Difficult to grow, the vine was uprooted mainly, it would appear, by growers lacking passion, patience and resources to produce quality juice. What’s left has generally been treated with better attention, helping to elevate the vine’s reputation. Besides that, over the past 20 years, a growing number of producers have been bottling the grape as a varietal wine rather than following the custom of mixing it with other varieties into blended reds named after local districts rather than grapes…[I]t tends to yield wines that are medium-bodied and sturdy…There’s often a savoury, tobacco-and-tar quality to the wines, too, along with a mixed-berry character, placing them, I think, in the centre of a Venn diagram that overlaps pinot noir with syrah and nebbiolo.”
“It is only in the last 15 years that the variety is emerging as a flavoursome, qualitative grape variety, and one made as a single varietal wine…On the basis of a small tasting, it’s worth the effort to get that mix of herbs, aromatic spices, graphite, plums and cherry fruit in a wine that’s not hugely full bodied.”
“Nero di Troia wine has a lively colour and an elegantly fresh bouquet with typical hints of violets; it is not particularly acidic on the palate, but is rich in polyphenols and especially tannins, which may become overpowering if the wine comes from grapes which are not perfectly ripe…Nero di Troia has an elegant bouquet of cherry, blackcurrant, black pepper, tobacco, and greenery, and a strikingly silky feel on the palate, containing plenty of well-balanced acidity and noticeable but refined tannins.”
“[I]t produces color-intensive, tannic and alcohol-strong red wines with aromas of sour cherries and herbs with aging potential.”
“There’s a new found belief and expertise that is already beginning to coax the best from this grape ‘in purezza’ (that’s 100% to us). Even though its official registered grape name is still ‘Uva di Troia’ (Grape from Troia), the producers have opted to get behind its revitalised identity as ‘Nero di Troia’. And you know what, we get behind them on this. Nero di Troia is already producing exceptional 100% varietals. Elegant reds that are a match for Puglia’s other principal red varieties – Primitivo and Negro Amaro. ”
“Nero di Troia wine has a lively colour and an elegantly fresh bouquet with typical hints of violets; it is not particularly acidic on the palate, but is rich in polyphenols and especially tannins.”
“Typical characteristics of Nero di Troia wines are the notes of geranium, violet, and clove, as well as red fruit, such as cherries. It is a well-balanced wine with smooth tannins. In a discussion, when we visited D’Alfonso del Sordo winery, it was said that Nero di Troia wines are more similar to the wines of northern Italy due to their balanced acidity and elegant touch.”