The Zweigelt Grape

Zweigelt is a red-wine grape originating in Austria as a deliberate crossing of Blaufränkisch and St Laurent, a crossing made in 1922 by the eponymous Dr Friedrich “Fritz” Zweigelt. It has been one of the most successful new grapes of modern times, combining the spiciness and good acidity of Blaufränkisch with the cherry aromas and silkiness of St Laurent; it is now the most-planted red-wine grape in Austria, being grown all across that nation.

The qualities of well-made Zweigelt are, first, a deep coloration; next, aromas of spice and flowers (violets are often mentioned); then, a palate of intense berry flavors with good acitidy and, thank goodness, only moderate alcohol. It is a smooth wine, often compared to the silky Pinot Noir (to whch it is somewhat related through its St Laurent parentage). It is a famously good food wine, but can readily stand on its own two feet.

Factoid: It turns out that Dr Zweigelt was an ardent Nazi; that disturbing discovery has led to soul-searching by Austria’s winemakers about re-naming the variety—indeed, a few years ago some began using “Rotburger” on their labels instead. (“Rotburger” was the name of the variety till 1975, and is still legal to use.) See this article at The Grape Collective for more information.

Some Descriptions of Zweigelt Wines

Wikipedia
“Widely planted in Austria, Zweigelt vines have made inroads in the Canadian wine regions of Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula and of British Columbia, with limited plantings in Hungary. In the Czech Republic it is known as Zweigeltrebe and is the third-most widely planted red-grape variety, comprising approximately 4.7% of total vineyards. It grows in most of the wine regions in Slovakia. As of 2010, newly established Belgian and Polish vineyards have also started to plant Zweigelt. As of 2014, Washington state U.S.A. has several small plantings (only a few acres) of Zweigelt, including Wilridge Winery and Perennial Vintners. Virginia is also starting to plant the grape in the Shenandoah AVA.”
Wine Searcher
“A classic Austrian Zweigelt is richly colored with a deep, bright core of spiced cherry and raspberry flavors. The finest examples have the potential to cellar well for a decade or so, but the majority are best consumed within a few years of release…Zweigelt has inherited desirable characteristics from both of its parent varieties…From Saint-Laurent it gets its bright, Pinot-like cherry aromas and the ability to create silky, elegant wines. From Blaufrankisch it has taken a certain spiciness and good acidity. Both parents are capable of creating wines with deep, rich purple-crimson coloring, so it is no surprise that Zweigelt wines tend to very richly colored; the best have a dark, brooding appearance in the glass. Unfortunately, this latter characteristic creates a natural temptation for some winemakers to overcrop their Zweigelt vines, resulting in wines with acceptable depth of color but rather diluted flavors and aromas. Austria’s relatively stringent wine laws have helped keep yields in check to a certain extent, but there are still marked differences between those Zweigelts from high-yielding vineyards and those made by more quality-conscious producers.”
Eric Asimov, The New York Times
“It is no exaggeration to say that we were greatly excited by the zweigelts. They had a freshness and grace that marked them as wines that would go beautifully with a wide range of foods. What’s more, they had an exotic spice and floral character, predominantly aromas of cinnamon and violets, that made them distinctive and unusual. [One taster] compared the zweigelts to Côtes-du-Rhônes. They reminded me of lighter Bierzos or spicy Beaujolais.”
Vinography
“By and large, Zweigelt makes mellow, easy-drinking wines, with plush, faint tannins, and pleasing cherry and cassis fruit flavors. It has no hard edges, and very little bite, reminding me at times of a golden retriever, 100% cuddly enthusiastic love all the time, but lacking a bit of sophistication as a result. Indeed the grape variety is so accommodating according to winemakers I spoke with, it ripens to the point of being able to produce 13.5% alcohol by volume, and no matter how much longer you let it hang it won't concentrate further. Some very good wines are clearly made from Zweigelt, as my tasting demonstrated, but I wonder if it is a grape that can truly produce wines of greatness. In my experience…it doesn’t take too well to more than a modicum of new oak, not that this is a requisite for profundity.”
Joie de Vivre
“So what is it about this wine that sets it apart from others? It’s all down to the combination of sweet and sour. Zweigelt combines an intense berry fruitiness with an appealing acidic tartness that makes for a bracing and refreshing wine. Zweigelt wines are light bodied, contain very few tannins, and have a fairly high acidity. All these aspects combine to make for a wine that can be enjoyed at room temperature or slightly chilled. In terms of specific flavors, drinkers of Zweigelt can expect notes of berry-based fruit such as cherry, blackcurrant, and raspberries. Additional flavors include cinnamon, pepper, and floral notes. It’s not uncommon for certain bottles of Zweigelt to be slightly effervescent, which makes them particularly refreshing on a hot summers day.”
Vine Pair
“Developed to be weather-resistant and high-yielding, Zweigelt can make wines in a range of styles, from light, fresh, and simple to rich, oaked, and nuanced. Red fruit and spice characteristics are most associated with Zweigelt wines, which are typically soft, interesting, and approachable.”
Wine Folly
“Austria’s most planted red wine grape and is a cross between Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent (tastes like Pinot Noir). Resulting wines are bright, tart, and fruity.”
World’s Best Wines
“Zweigelt wines have a bright colour giving out Pinot like aromas of cherry and blackberry. These wines seem very silky and elegant having a certain amount of spiciness along with a good amount of acidity. Zweigelt wines give out colours which are deep and purplish with a tinge of crimson into it. The best wines are those wines which have a dark broody appearance and appear richly coloured. However, due to this desire of high levels of colours, wine growers tend to overgrow this grape which makes wines having an excellent colour, but often lacks the flavourful punch as the wines are diluted in flavours and colours.”

Some Zweigelts to Try

For a Splurge

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