The Lagrein Grape

Lagrein is a old, long-established red-wine grape originating in the Alto Adige region of northern Italy.

Typical Lagrein wines are deeply colored, with only modest tannins; they have quite intense berry-fruit flavors, and are sometimes described as “rustic”. Nowadays some winemakers reduce the period of carboinic maceration, so as to better preserve such tannins as there are, and some also use light oak-barrel aging. They are not intended for lengthy aging, though a year or so in bottle is advisable. They tend to be smoother and rounder than many other Italian red wines. Satisfactory Lagrein wines are also being made in California and Australia.

Factoid: Lagrein is a descendant of Teroldego, and is related to both Syrah and Pinot Noir.

Some Descriptions of Lagrein Wines

Wikipedia
“Cultivation of Lagrein in South Tyrol usually results in the tannic red wines Lagrein Scuro, or Lagrein Dunkel…In recent years, winemaking techniques have changed, with shortened maceration periods and used oak to achieve less aggressive flavours…Lagrein produces wine with high acidity that are highly tannic.”
Wine Searcher
“Its wines are strong and full bodied with plum and wild cherry flavors, and the variety is particularly well known for the deep, dense color it imparts on wines. Lagrein has a characteristically north-Italian fresh, acidic structure and a slightly astringent finish, making it best paired with food…Lagrein is often produced as a varietal wine, permitted under both the Trentino and Alto Adige DOC titles. The sun-baked slopes here provide an excellent terroir for the grape, and it is the most significant red wine variety in what is, admittedly, a region where white wines dominate…Lagrein has posed a few issues for winemakers over the years, and in particular its tendancy toward low, irregular yields and a harsh tannic structure in the finished wines. Modern viticultural and winemaking techniques have limited the effects of these two problems. Careful clone selection has helped ensure more consistent harvests, and shorter maceration times and barrel aging has helped to curb some of the most astringent tannins. When made well, Lagrein wines can offer an off-the-beaten-path alternative to full-bodied wines like those made from Cabernet Sauvignon. The best examples can be aged for several years, although they are best drunk within a few years of harvest.”
Eric Adsimov, The New York Times
“[I]t produces congenial, straightforward wines that can be deliciously plummy, earthy and chewy, dark and full-bodied but not heavy, with a pronounced minerally edge…[In a Lagrein tasting session,] We all found the lagreins to be appealing wines that managed to combine richness and delicacy and that seemed to be delicious both young and with five or more years of aging…The wines we liked best had a savory side, along with floral notes and lively acidity.”
Kevin Day, Opening a Bottle
“Italy is flush with indigenous grapes that don’t seem to thrive anywhere else. Of these, Lagrein is among my absolute favorites. A testament to subtlety, this is a wine grape that was never destined for popularity. It’s rustic but not bold. Plummy, but not fruity. Mild-mannered but not simple. In other words, it’s not obvious, but it sure goes great with a variety of foods, particularly the seasonal ingredients of fall. I would liken them to a racier rendition of Merlot…I will say that Lagrein…does have a drawback. They are fleeting. Two hours after the bottle had been opened, I returned for another glass, but those once-noticeable flavors had faded quite a bit…But there’s a simple fix for this problem: share the bottle with a few friends and polish it off in time.”
Kevin Lepisto, The Wine Country
“agrein is related to Syrah and Pinot Noir and produces wines that are surprisingly dark and plummy but also surprisingly lighter on the palate than its inky color implies…Lagrein, like most Italian wines, is high in acidity and minerality keeping the wine vibrant and fresh and excellent with food. Lagrein’s typical flavor profile is of blackberries and black cherries with hints of wild herbs and wet river stones. Lagrein’s somewhat chewy tannins make it a great match for grilled meats and game, meat stews or ripe cheeses.”
Loren Sonkin, Into Wine
“Lagrein wine is dense and dark purple/ruby in color. It has aromas of black raspberries and plums with spices such as cinnamon or nutmeg. Yet, on the palate, it is a bit lighter than expected although it does come off as rustic, with a spry acidity that makes them great with food. The flavors are more of raspberries and cranberries and some leathery qualities. For many wine drinkers, especially those used to the Bordeaux varietals, Lagrein can be unsettling as the palate seems weak based on the visual expectations. Yet, this is a wine with fascinating complexities that goes great with food…Lagrein wines are usually labeled as DOC Alto Adige Lagrein. In addition, the word Suditrol may appear. This is the Austrian name for the area meaning South Tyrol. Under DOC rules, these wines have at least 95% Lagrein grapes but may have as much as 5% other local grapes added to it. Riservas are also produced which have a minimum ageing requirement of 24 months before being released…The leading white wine producers of Alto Adige also tend to make the best reds.”
Rose Murray Brown, MW
“Crunchy black cherry fruits, lashings of pepper and spice with bitter coffee and iodine notes. This is a typical tasting note of the red Lagrein grape, which is often best enjoyed after a brief chill in the fridge…It has a deep dense ruby colour like Syrah, scents of pencil shavings, violets, tobacco and plums with a charming rustic purity, not unlike a Loire Cabernet Franc. Some examples have the similar plummy fruits you find in local grape Teroldego—and a soft tannic sweetness you find in German reds like Dornfelder.”
World’s Best Wines
“It produces wines which are extremely strong when it comes to the taste and are full bodied with flavours of wild cherry and plum arising out of it. The wine made from this grape is particularly known for its deep and dense colour and it is one of the best wines when it comes to the blends.”
David Kermode, The Buyer
“In recent years, Lagrein has become increasingly fashionable in export markets, gracing some of the world’s finest Italian-focused wine lists. It is easy to see why, as the best examples reveal real structure and depth, with a vibrant mountain-fruit freshness.”
Beppi Crosariol, The Globe and Mail
“Even if not as cuddly as, say, shiraz or merlot, though, lagrein has benefited from modern winemaking techniques that can round out those rough tannins. It often manages to deliver compelling balance by combining opulent mouth feel with fresh acidity and a welcome backbone of bitterness…Think of it as a leaner, more quaffable version of cabernet sauvignon, though usually with less savoury depth and cellar longevity.”
Wine Paradigm
“Aromas of black fruits, violets and spice (cinnamon and nutmeg), can also include vanilla, smoke and earthy fragrances with age. On the palate flavors of fresh cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant and plum may be accompanied by dark chocolate, licorice, tobacco, leather and coffee, as well as mineral notes, followed by a refreshing, bitter cherry finish. Medium to full body, high tannins, high acidity. Most should be enjoyed within a few years of release. They are fruity in youth and gain more complexity with age—the best wines improve for up to ten years.”

Some Lagreins to Try

For a Splurge

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