The Friulano Grape

(Synonyms: Occhio di Gatto, Sauvignon de la Corrèe, Sauvignon Gros Grain, Sauvignon Vert, Sauvignonasse, Tai Bianco, Tocai, Tocai Friulano, Tocai Italico, Tocai Italico Friulano, Zeleni Sauvignon.)

Background

Friulano is a white-wine grape originating in the Gironde region in northwest France (where it was mainly known as Sauvignonasse, and was not ever widely planted), but which is now chiefly grown in the Friuli region of Italy (where it was first known as Tokai, then Tocai Friulano) but also in Chile. (The grape was long known in Italy as “Tocai Friulano” till Hungary raised a dispute with the EU, claiming that name infringed on their Tokaj wines, and after much disputation the EU agreed; consequently, the name was eventually changed to just “Friulano”.)

Friulano can, broadly speaking, be one of two sorts, depending on its exact place of origin. The areas in the northeast—the Collio and Colli Orientali regions—tend to make the bigger, heavier wines, while those in the southern areas make lighter but fruitier and more immediately drinkable renditions. Characteristics commonly noted for Friulano include moderate to low acidity, high alcohol levels, floral aromas, and light fruit flavors. Pears (and, for Chilean versions, green apples), almonds, citrus, spice, and minerality are all found mentioned with some frequency. To paint with a broad brush, it is not (usually) a profound wine, but neither is it a mindless “quaffer”; rather, it is a pleasant, refreshing wine that goes well by itself or with food.

Factoid: Sources differ on when Friulano arrived in Italy: Wikipedia says the grape actually originated in the Veneto region at least as far back as 1600; Jancis Robinson et al, in their monumental Wine Grapes, say the grape arrived in Friuli from France in the early 19th century. (Above, we report Robinson’s version.)

Some Descriptions of Friulano Wines

Wikipedia
[Wikipedia refers to this grape by its synonym Sauvignon vert] “The vine is prone to producing high yields which must be controlled in order to make premium quality wine. With Sauvignon vert, the quality of the wine depends greatly on the grapes being harvested at the right point. If picked too early the resulting wine will be dull and lack any varietal character. The grape also has the potential for very high levels of alcohol with 14.5% ABV not being uncommon. The wine made from Sauvignon vert varies depending on the area in which it is produced. In the Friuli region, Friuilano and in Goriška Brda region, Jakot wine is typically full bodied with moderate acidity, floral aromas and delicate fruit flavors. In Chile, Sauvignon vert typically starts with aromas of green apples in its youth that fade as it ages and is more medium bodied.”
Wine Searcher
“[Friulano] wines, usually varietal, are lively and fruit-driven with notes of citrus and almond, and often a touch of minerality…The wine itself can be made in a variety of styles, and the use of oak is much debated – some use oak maturation to add structure to the wines, while others argue that oak overwhelms Friulano’s character and should be avoided.”
Florence Fabricant, The New York Times
“Stylistically, friulanos range from light and crisp to richer and full-bodied, but reliably exhibiting an alluring perfume of pears. Some of the finest, more complex friulanos are vinified in contact with the skin of the grapes, allowing the character of the grape to intensify. They may also be aged briefly in oak.”
Jancis Robinson
“The wine it produces is fuller-bodied and less aromatic than Sauvignon Blanc but can produce perfectly serviceable wine with vigorous acidity and fresh, sappy fruit, sometimes with a sort of ‘green’, leafy streak. ”
Wine Paradigm
“Aromas of wild meadow flowers, almond blossom and ripe white fruits are followed by flavors of pear, peach and tropical fruits, with some citrus notes, a touch of honey and a very typical almond finish. It can also display mineral notes, as well as nutty elements, herbs and a little spice…Drink while young; within two years of release. [But the] very best wines can improve for up to five years or more.”
Star Chefs
“The grape’s wines are marked by variety, ranging from light and crisp to a fuller, more honeyed style. Lots of factors play into that stylistic diversity: soils and clonal variety first among them…the Collio and Colli Orientali regions in the northeast usually create the more intense, longer-lived wines, with a distinctive minerality…the southern Friulano is often lighter but fruity, sapid, and easy to drink and to enjoy, especially when it is still young…Friulano’s aromas range from green apple and pear to more rounded apricot, peach, or even tropical touches. Most show some minerality and spice – often a ‘baking spice’ touch of nutmeg – and hazelnut or almond notes are often common.”
Winegeeks
“Friulano’s aromas range from green apple and pear to more rounded apricot, peach, or even tropical touches. Most show some minerality and spice – often a ‘baking spice’ touch of nutmeg – and hazelnut or almond notes are often common…[Friulano] produces light and fragrant white wines that are known for being citrusy, floral and slightly bitter on the finish…Under strict yield supervision and a new-world-wine-making hand Tocai can be a tasty alternative to so much of the commercially produced Pinot Grigio that hails from that region.”
World’s Best Wines
“This grape is known to make varietal wines which are fruity in taste. Buds are plucked early. They need to be lucked very carefully as if they are plucked too early; the wine might not give any taste at all while if it is plucked late, there might be chances of rotting or mildew. There is a huge controversy for the use of oak barrels for the fermentation of the grape. Some say that it enhances the taste of the wine while others believe the originality of the wine is destroyed. Winemakers, who use oak barrels for the fermentation of wine, add so different flavours to the wine which might not be cherished by all of the tasters. The alcohol content of the wine is very high, but the acidity is not so high. Therefore wine tasters who prefer low acidity wines, this is among the best you can taste.”
Ian D’Agata, Vinous
“[It] speaks of fresh citrus fruits, almond and herbs. There are some remarkably deep and complex wines made with this variety, many with a gentle touch of oak.”

Some Friulanos to Try

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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