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(Synonyms: Asporombola, Asprprobola, Asprompola, Robbola, Robola Aspri, Robolo Aspro, Robola Kerini, Robolla, Rombola, Rombola Aspri, Rompola, Rompola Kerine.)
Robola is a white-wine grape originating in Greece and now grown mainly on the island of Cephalonia, with some smaller plantings on Corfu, and a couple other of the Ionian Islands. It was long thought to be the same grape called in Italy Ribolla Gialla, but modern DNA analysis has proved them to be two quite distinct varieties.
Factoid: There are two red-wine grapes, Rombola Kokkino and Mavro Rombola, that are believed to be simply color mutations of Robola.
An important aspect of Robola wines is that Cephalonia is where the great majority of Robola is bottled, and about 85% of all Robola produced on Cephalonia is made by the Robola Co-operative. The Co-op members each own their own vineyards, but their grapes all go to the Co-op’s wine-making facility. The Co-op produces some five different bottlings of Robola, and here lies a problem for the consumer: retailers and reviewers alike tend to be rather sloppy in listing and distinguishing those wines, and it is often hard to determine which is being described unless a bottle-label image is available (and some places show the wrong label: caveat emptor!). Normally, we do not discuss individual wines other than to list them, but these are a special case.
(The Co-op has, as of 2018, started to use “Orealios Gaea” as their label title, but not all of their wines are yet so labelled, adding to the confusion.)
This is the Co-op’s ordinary, basic “Robola of Cephalonia” bottling; it is easily distinguished, as it comes in a burlap bag. It is fairly common, but definitely not one of their quality bottlings.
This is the Co-op’s “San Gerasimo” bottling; it carries the new Orealios Gaea designation. It is a decent wine but quite scarce in the U.S.
This is the Co-op’s “R” bottling. It carries the new Orealios Gaea designation, is a good wine, and is fairly widely available.
This is the Co-op’s “Truth” organic bottling. It carries the new Orealios Gaea designation. It is arguably one of their two best, but is seems completely unavailable in the U.S.
This is the Co-op’s “Barrel-Aged ” bottling. Not a few feel that barrel aging does not work that well with Robola, but in any event this bottling seems unavailable in the U.S.
Between rising prices and falling ratings, about all we can find left to suggest is this:
• This wine’s Wine Searcher Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.
We could find no reasonably available Robola wines better enough than those listed above as to justify a “splurge” price.
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Some Descriptions of Robola Wines
“On Cephalonia, Robola vines are often ungrafted in the limestone soils of the island. The vine is early ripening and can produce high acid wines with significant phenolic levels. Wines made from this grape tend to be dry, medium bodied with a distinct lemon note. According to wine expert Oz Clarke, Robola wines can have flinty character as well.”
“Robola typically produces fresh, lightly aromatic citrusy wines…On Cephalonia it is often planted ungrafted (on its own roots) on limestone soils.The best wines often come from vineyards above 300 meters (1000ft). These often have a chalky or flinty freshness and plenty of power. Such wines are most likely found in the Robola of Kefaloniá appellation which is restricted to vineyards of 50 meters altitude. The variety is regarded as early ripening. Timing of harvest is regarded as critical to retain acidity, maximize depth of flavor, and to manage phenolic levels, which can be high. The must and juice needs careful handling by winemakers as it is prone to oxidation.”
“It gives wines that are really fresh due to their high acidity, but well-textured and powerful, with light aromas of citrus fruits and a distinctive minerality. Wines from Robola are usually un-oaked and almost always [mono]varietal, although some blends with other varieties can be encountered.”
“The wines produced are relatively high-ranking in alcohol, have moderate intensity, fruity fragrance with citrus and mineral notes, with good body and with good acidity. It is a promising variety, which despite its easily oxidized character, can give charming wines of small aging time.”
“The vines are cultivated in chalky soils, adding an extra dimension of mineral to the grapes. This gives a very unique taste to the wines. The grape has a balance of sugar and acid. The acidity of the wine made from this grape variety is very high…The grape gives the aromas of citrus and peach. It gives flavours of smoky minerals and leaves a long lemony aftertaste. The wine has a high alcoholic level and well as high acidity.”
“Among the Ionian Islands, Kefallonia is more widely known for the cultivation of Robola where the variety yields the PDO Robola of Cephalonia wines. Despite its vulnerable character, which requires barren, preferably mountain terrain, the variety is exceptionally productive to the point where restricting yields has become necessary in seeking to obtain a good Robola wine. As the variety is prone to oxidation, an equally important requisite is careful vinification that normally takes place entirely in stainless steel tanks. However, once all these requisites have been fulfilled, Robola wine emerges endowed with a ‘European’ minerality, medium body, and excellent oxidation which are evocative of a good PDO Santorini wine. When young, it may be likened to—why not?—a Chablis and—after it has aged a few years—even a Riesling may be a fitting comparison to a Robola!”
“The Robola grape produces wines that are high in acidity and well-textured. Robola wines are typically 12.5% alcohol. Most of the wines made from Robola are not oaked. The aroma of Robola wine is of citrus, minerals, melon, and orange blossoms. On the palate, there is a balance of white peach and lemon-lime flavors. There is also a hint of mineral on the palate.”
“The co-op [see farther below] has dedicated 10% of their production to a purely organic wine, while still inoculating with cultivated yeasts. [Their] 2014 Organic Robola, along with the the 2014 San Gerassimo Robola, were the finest wines at the co-op. As always, the limited production, barrel-fermented and aged wine was markedly less energetic than the stainless steel-fermented version. The co-op’s 2014 San Gerassimo Robola was a surprise favorite for me among Robola. A typical shortcoming in Robola wines can be a sudden, sharp dropoff on the midpalate: this is entirely visible in the co-op’s burlap-wrapped entry level Robola wine, which seems to disappear from the palate before briefly reappearing in a weak, lemony finish. The San Gerassimo was ravishing by comparison: dry and refreshing, with a round, supple mouthfeel, a saline mineral drive, and that slightly honeyed, honeysuckle-laden midpalate entry to an ever so slightly pineapple fruit, ending in a gentle, bitter almond finish. I’ve yet to taste a Robola that was hot, as the wines typically peak at 12.5% ABV. The San Gerassimo does not suffer from the dropoff at the midpalate as does other Robola – it has the conviction to get to the finish, which accumulates to evoke matcha tea a bit.”