The Mondeuse Grape

(Synonyms: Gros Rouge, Grosse Syrah, Maldoux, Persagne, Petite Persaigne, Plant Maldoux, Savoyan.)

Background

Mondeuse is a red-wine grape originating in the Dauphiné, a French region (formerly a province) in the east. Though the grape’s formal full name is “Mondeuse Noire” (sometimes rendered “Mondeuse Noir”, no e), it is usually just called Mondeuse. (There is a Mondeuse Blanche grape, but it is quite minor: 12 acres in the world as of 1999.)

Mondeuse wines are deeply colored, aromatic (dark-red fruit), tannic, acidic, and with a full and distinctive palate. The best specimens also finish with a (desirable) bitter-ish cherry tang reminescent of many Italian red wines; indeed it was once thought that Mondeuse was a Refosco; but modern DNA analysis showed that that was not so. The wines typically age well.

Factoid: DNA analyses show that Mondeuse is related to Syrah, either as a half-sibling or grandparent.

Some Descriptions of Mondeuse Wines

Wikipedia
“According to Master of Wine Jancis Robinson, Mondeuse noire tends to produce deeply colored and very aromatic wines that can be very tannic but often have good aging potential. Some examples will have "bitter cherry bite" that can be reminiscent of some Italian styles of wine. In California, the grape is often blended with other varieties such as Syrah and tends to produce dark and spicy wines…Master of Wine Clive Coates notes that Mondeuse noire sometimes has difficulties fully ripening in the cool alpine climates of Savoie and eastern France which can lead to some examples of the wine being very acidic, tart and lacking fruit. However, wine expert Hugh Johnson believes that Mondeuse noire is often ‘underrated’ and in Savoie has the potential to produce ‘forthright, fruity reds’.”
Wine Searcher
“A classic Mondeuse wine is aromatic with a deep purple color, with plenty of acidity and considerable tannins. The bouquet is powerfully aromatic, with notes of sour cherries, damson plums, pencil lead and a invigorating hint of black pepper. Among the finest, most expressive examples are those from the Savoie village of Arbin…Mondeuse wines are mostly [mono]varietal, as is the norm in the Savoie region, but when blended the most common blending partners are Gamay, Pinot Noir or Poulsard.”
Imbibe
“Mondeuse has plenty to offer—intensely aromatic, with a crisp and bouncy bitter-cherry complexity, the wine has a fruit-rich vivacity and a mildly tannic bite.”
Wine Paradigm
“If yields are permitted to be high, which tends to be traditional, then the wines will be made in the Fruity style for early consumption. These light wines are refreshing, relatively low in alcohol and are almost always chaptalized (i.e. sugar is added to the grape juice before or during fermentation). They generally have a slightly bitter finish, which is reminiscent of many Italian reds…However, the best wines, produced from lower yielding vines, are richer and more substantial, with higher alcohol levels, and are made in the Smooth style. Many of these wines also receive oak aging, which provides additional structure and gives them aging potential for a decade or more. They are very characterful with aromas of violets, candied red fruit, dark berries, black pepper and spice. On the palate lively flavors of raspberry, blueberry, blackberry and plum lead to a bitter cherry and peppery finish. These wines can be intriguing and complex while also being rustic (in a positive way) at the same time.”
World’s Best Wines
“When fully ripe, the vine produces deep red colour with high acidity and deep tannins. Sugars are noticeable, as is the case with the reddest varieties with dominant notes of sour cherries, plums and some hint of black pepper mixed with sugar follows. Aromas are intense for Mondeuse Noir with intense aromas of cherries mixed with peppers and some notes of earthy smoke filling the olfactory.”
Seven-Fifty Daily
[Quoting winemaker Elie Talaga:] “Mondeuse has big structure at first, which gives the wine a very good opportunity to age. You can easily age a Mondeuse bottle for at least five or six years. After that you can keep it in good condition in your cellar without any problem, especially the classic Mondeuse without oak.”
Wine Folly
“Mondeuse strives on scree slopes, marl and limestone soils. Its best expression can be found in the commune of Arbin. Wines made from mondeuse have a deep purple color, a well-structured acidity and well-integrated tannins. Flavors range from red fruits (strawberry, redcurrant, raspberry, sour plum) and flowers (violet) to gamey overtones and spice (white pepper, cinnamon, cloves). Mondeuse wines show great ageing potential (10 years +). When young, they should be drunk at least 12 months after bottling.”
Vinorandum
“Despite its relative obscurity and high susceptibility to viticultural hazards, the Mondeuse grape has the potential to produce excellent, aromatic wines that are rich in colour with generous tannins and a rustic, Italianate charm.”
Good Food Revolution
“The grape typically produces delicately structured peppery wines, often with a bitter cherry note on the palate, with an intensely dark colour and markedly high acidity. From my experience the Mondeuse will most probably appeal to those into their Jura reds, as it shares much in common with some of the better examples of Trousseau and Poulsard from that (nearby) region.”
Enofylz
“The primary red wine grape variety [of Savoie], Mondeuse Noir is native to the region. It’s best expression may be in found in the Arbin cru, where it thrives on the steep south-facing slopes which allows them to take advantage of the prevailing sunlight, which facilitates phenolic ripeness. The soils surrounding the village of Arbin are made up of clay and limestone overlaid with dark scree. These poor, loose, free-draining soils engender intense wines with an excellent concentration of flavor…”
Artisan Swiss
“At its best, Mondeuse retains acidity and freshness even in the warmest vintages. In fact, with some ripe flesh on its bones it can even be described as lithe and sexy with a pronounced violet aroma and flavors of sour cherry. Lately we are seeing plumper versions from both Savoie and Switzerland.”

Some Mondeuses to Try

Because Mondeuse is not well known in the U.S., its market availability is sadly sparse. We could only find a very few within our price range, and even opening that up to look for a splurge wine garnered nothing available at more than perhaps one or two shops each. Sad, very sad. Anyway, here is what we gleaned.

Incidentally, we noticed that consumers typically rate these wines rather higher than the professional critics, though that is not always so. We also noticed, perusing CellarTracker, that opinions were more than ordinarily divided (and, regrettably, some of the most enthusiastic reviewers didn’t leave numeric scores). We feel that this variety is sufficiently distinctive that many who are not experienced consumers of it may be turned off by its varietal character—which others love. YMMV.

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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