The Savatiano Grape

(Synonyms: Dobraina Aspri, Doumpraina Lefki, Kountoura Aspri, Perahortiko, Sakeiko, Savathiano, Savvatiano, Stamatiano, Tsoumprena.)

Background

Savatiano is an ancient (c. 2500 years old) white-wine grape originating in Greece, possibly (but not surely) around Athens. Though not well known by its name outside Greece, it is in fact the most-planted white-wine grape in that nation. That is because an awful lot of it is used as bulk wine to make cheap Retsina and other low-priced wines for everyday consumption in Greece. But, as is so often the case, when interested winemakers go at it with some care and dedication—notably using older vines and controlled yields (quality over quantity)—the grape can produce quite good wines, and more and more such bottlings are now showing up.

A modern, well-made Savatiano typically shows aromas of yellow fruit (pears and peaches) and perhaps new-mown grass; the palate carries the fruit qualities through. The wines are medium in body, and with acids in good balance with the fruit. All in all, it is a wine that is not too much this nor too much that (so to speak): it is a wine built on nuances rather than power.

Factoid: It is said, and certainly could be, that Socrates and Plato drank (and enjoyed) Savatiano wines.

Some Descriptions of Savatiano Wines

Wine Searcher
“The variety is best known for its role in the country’s infamous Retsina wines, although technological advances in modern winemaking have led to an upsurge in well-made, dry Savatiano wines…Due to Savatiano's low acidity it is also commonly blended with Roditis and Assyrtiko, but modern viticultural methods have resulted in more complete expressions of Savatiano, and more varietal Savatiano wines are becoming available each vintage.”
Wine Folly
“Greece’s most planted variety is starting to make a comeback as more winemakers focus on quality producing richer, full-bodied white wines reminiscent of Chardonnay.”
Greece and Grapes
“Savatiano is the most widely cultivated grape variety in Greece and commonly associated with retsina, although nowadays it is also vinified without the addition of resin, with great results. It produces white wines perfect for everyday meals with good acidity and alcohol balance…Savatiano wines are easy to drink, characterized by fruity aromas and typically offer great value for money.”
Wines of Greece
“[I]it possesses distinct aromas of yellow fruit and freshly cut grasses, a round mouth, and a well-balanced presence. This new profile did not come about without hard work. Numerous Attica and Central Greece producers—regions where Savvatiano is prevalent—have toiled both in the vineyard as well as in the winery. By harvesting at the right time, they ensured the right acidity; by means of prefermentation-maceration and low fermentation temperatures, they ‘vaccinated’ the variety with freshness and an increased aromatic intensity; by selecting specific clones from each terroir, they imbued the variety with complexity; and by excluding aged, goblet-pruned vines, they ensured viscosity and length.”
Greece Is
“Savatiano wines are characterized by subtle aromas of fruits (pear, green apple, peach) and flowers (jasmine, honeysuckle). They often have herbaceous undertones or mineral notes. The wines are well structured, with depth and richness of flavor. But the main attraction is their pleasant palate neither light nor heavy, neither acidic nor tannic: smack in the middle of the taste spectrum.”
Greek Boston
“When harvested early, Savatiano grapes produce a wine that is dry with characteristics of citrus fruits and white flowers with a tingly acidity…When Savatiano is oak-aged it tastes of wax and lemon curd.”
Susan H. Gordon, Forbes
“Juicy, with nectarine, apricot and lemon flavors so heightened they verge on grilled, and a rich taste of roasted nuts, these Savatianos carry something of that gritty hard-fought-for-and-won opulence that can come from dry places.”

Some Savatianos to Try

Good-quality Savatiano is still too new for much of it to have penetrated the U.S. market. What we show below is about it for reasonably priced and available specimens.

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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