The Barbera Grape

(Synonyms: Barbera a Peduncolo Rosso, Barbera a Raspo Verde, Barbera Amaro, Barbera d’Asti, Barbera Dolce, Barbera Fina, Barbera Grossa, Barbera Nera, Barbera Nostrana, Barbera Vera, Barberone, Gaietto, Lombardesca, Sciaa)

Background

Barbera is a red-wine grape originating in the Piedmont (Italian, Piemonte) region of Italy, which remains its principal source, though it is now widely grown around the world. It is not a world-class wine, but is a sturdy, workmanlike red that can nevertheless on occasion approach greatness; it is often said, only partly in jest, that Barbera is what the Piemontese drink while they wait for their Nebbiolo to mature.

Barbera is a classic high-acid wine, to the extent that that quality needs moderating if the wine is to be well-made. But it is also naturally a very low-tannin wine. In modern times, there has been a substantial move toward aging Barbera in oak, to help with those issues and others. Also, vineyard practices, especially holding yields down, have helped the grape move up the quality ladder.

In the Piedmont, the two principal areas for beter-quality Barberas are Alba and Asti, and fanciers will argue over which is superior (meaning they are probably on a par). Buyers of Italian Barbera will usually seek a Barbera d’Asti or a Barbera d’Alba. (Wikipedia asserts that “The wines of Barbera d’Asti tend to be bright in color and elegant while Barbera d’Alba tend to have a deep color with more intense, powerful fruit.”)

While Barbera is grown in widely scattered areas throughout the world’s wine regions, it is taken seriously as to quality and quantity chiefly in California. There, while it was long a “jug wine”, it has for some time been treated by many winemakers as a potentially high-quality wine. Plantings in the Pacific Northwest—Oregon and Washington—are to date generally less successful. Barbera, with its acids, ages very well.

“Bare” (unoaked or only lightly oaked) Barbera tends to a definite nose and taste of a cherry-like quality; oaked Barbera picks up the usual mild vanilla tones of oak, as well as some darker-fruit qualities (it moves, that is, from cherry toward plum). Because Barbera is so acidic, there is a tendency on the part of vineyardists to let it hang long, so as to develop more sugars to balance the acid, but care must be taken not to overdo it; Barbera made from grapes left too long on the vine tend to an undesireable slightly sweet or raisiny quality. Barberas can be made anywhere from medium-bodied up to quite big and heavy.

Factoid: Recent DNA evidence suggest that Barbera may be related to the French-Spanish vine Mourvèdre (Spanish, Monastrell).

Some Descriptions of Barbera Wines

Wikipedia
“When young, the wines offer a very intense aroma of fresh red and blackberries. In the lightest versions notes of cherries, raspberries and blueberries and with notes of blackberry and black cherries in wines made of more ripe grapes. Many producers employ the use of toasted (seared over a fire) oak barrels, which provides for increased complexity, aging potential, and hints of vanilla notes. The lightest versions are generally known for flavors and aromas of fresh fruit and dried fruits, and are not recommended for cellaring. Wines with better balance between acid and fruit, often with the addition of oak and having a high alcohol content are more capable of cellaring; these wines often result from reduced-yield viticultural methods. . . As with many grapes that are widely planted, there is a wide range of quality and variety of Barbera wines from medium bodied, fruity wines to more powerful, intense examples that need cellaring. Some characteristics of the variety are more consistent—namely its deep ruby color, pink rim, noticeable levels of tannins and pronounced acidity…The use of oak for fermentation or maturation can have a pronounced influence of the flavor and profile of Barbera. Barrel-influenced Barberas tend to be rounder, richer with more plum and spice notes. Wines made with older or more-neutral oak tend to have more vibrant aromas and cherry notes. While some producers delay harvest in order to increase sugar levels as a balance to Barbera’s acidity, over-ripeness can lead to raisiny flavors.”
Wine Searcher
“As with Nebbiolo, there is considerable debate over how Barbera is best treated; traditionalist favor longer maceration and less oak, while modernists champion rounder, more approachable styles softened by barrel maturation. Being naturally high in acidity, Barbera can be grown in warmer climates without producing overblown, flat wines. . . This acidity complements the cherry flavors found in typical Barbera wines, and has contributed to the (largely justified) stereotype of Italian red wines as being ripe, bright and tangy rather than voluptuous and earthy. When young, most Barbera wines have a bright-red cherry character, distinguished from Nebbiolo (which often overshadows Barbera) by softer tannins and a certain roundness. When matured in barrel and allowed to age in bottle for a few years, this turns to a denser, sour-cherry note. A warm Merlot-like plumminess is also commonly detectable, although the variety is more closely related to Mourvedre than Merlot. When overheated, a Barbera vine will produce comparatively flat, dull wines with notes of baked prunes and raisins, while its trademark cherry flavors turn towards kirsch. Barbera reaches its zenith in Piedmont (see Barbera d’Asti and Barbera d’Alba), where the vine performs particularly on well-drained, limestone-rich slopes with a warm southerly aspect.“
Jancis Robinson
“Barbera’s natural excess of acidity and shortage of tannin are accentuated at high yields. But if Barbera is grown on sites specifically suited to it and pruned carefully, more concentrated wines are the result. They still have rather a shortage of tannin however, but this can be counterbalanced by oaking and the additional framework of oak tannins. Which still leaves that high acidity. Many modern winemakers quietly deacidify Barbera (by adding harmless calcium carbonate for example) to give it extra appeal in an age when wine consumers are - wrongly in my view - taught to be shy of acidity. Fermentations tend to be shorter than those of Nebbiolo but longer than for Dolcetto. Barbera is not intrinsically the most flavourful grape in the viticultural universe - vague blackberry quality plus tartness is about as close as one cam come to the essential flavour of Barbera. The army of oaked Barberas which has invaded the Piemontese wine scene (filling the price gap between basic Barbera and Dolcetto and the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco) have tended to rely quite heavily on the oak itself for aroma. Time has shown that as these Barberas age, the oak increasingly dominates, as what little fruit the Barbera itself contributed fades. Few oaked Barberas are better at 10 years than they are at five.“
Lettie Teague, The Wall Street Journal
“Barbera has plenty of qualities that would seem to make it a likely household name: fairly soft tannins, an ability to age well, and bright, lively acidity. . . Why are there so many self-proclaimed “Pinot-philes” but relatively few “Barbera-ites”? One of the problems may be Barbera’s bewildering variety of types. Barbera comes in so many guises—from big, broad-shouldered examples to light-bodied and charming wines—that would-be Barbera drinkers don’t necessarily know what they’ll find. There’s also the matter of how the wine is made, which can vary and further confuse drinkers. Some Barberas are aged in new French barriques (small barrels), which impart perceptible tannins and a certain spicy bouquet, while others are aged in several years old large barrels. Some go directly into stainless steel tanks, producing wines that are fresh and juicy but not very complex.“
Berry Brothers & Rudd
“The wines are usually ruby red in colour with notably low levels of tannins. They have a pronounced acidity that can be accentuated by overproduction. Barbera wines range from light, tart mouthwashers through to powerfull, intensely flavoured wines that require extended cellaring.“
Wine Folly
“Somehow Barbera wine tastes both rich and light-bodied. Why is that? Well, one reason is that it has dark staining pigments that dye the wine to near-black. However, the taste of Barbera has notes of strawberry and sour cherry: flavors synonymous with light-bodied wines. Light tannin and high acidity make it taste ‘Juicy’. Most of the Barbera you’ll find is from Italy which leans towards more herbaceous flavors.“
Ed McCarthy, Wine Review on Line
“Barbera is unlike any other red variety that I know in that, although its skins are deeply colored, giving us dark-colored wines, it also has very high acidity, but practically no tannin! Piedmont Barberas are crisp and refreshing, resembling white wine, without the mouth-drying tannins of most reds. Once you savor its flavors, however - mainly tart cherries and berries, along with spiciness - you know you’re drinking red wine. Barberas are not big reds; they are generally medium-bodied. Their high acidity comes in handy in hot vintages, such as Europe’s 2003 and 2000, when other red wines suffered from high alcohol and over-ripeness, but Barbera’s high acidity enabled it to deal with the alcohol. Because Barberas are not huge, yet do have racy acidity, they pair well with many dishes. . . Even though the Barbera d’Alba and Barbera d’Asti zones are contiguous, there is a distinct difference in style between Alba and Asti Barberas. Barbera d’Alba, growing in the same relatively warm south-facing hillsides that produce Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as around those two districts, tends to be fuller-bodied and rounder, with slightly less acidity than Barbera d’Asti, and generally has darker fruit aromatics. The typical Barbera d’Asti is lighter-bodied and livelier with more tart fruit flavors and more acidity than most Barbera d’Albas. But Barbera d’Asti made from old vines and aged in barriques (a development which has gotten more commonplace during the last two decades) can be as full-bodied as any Barbera d’Alba.“
Jim Clarke, Star Chefs
“Most producers took two steps to bring the grape into the spotlight. The first was greater ripening, in most cases attained by planting the grape in choicer sites. The second key to success was to age the wine in French oak. Barbera makes dark wines that are low in tannins – an unusual combination, since both color and tannins come from the skin of the grape, and the opposite of the orange-tinged, paler Nebbiolo with its immense, weighty tannins. New French oak lends wine tannins of its own, giving this newer style of Barbera the balanced structure it needs to support the added richness. The new combination of acidity and tannins also makes these Barberas much more age-worthy than their predecessors. The overall effect is like using a really good equalizer on your stereo; the rough edges are smoothed out and the bass becomes fuller, round, and rich. Many of the wines made in this newer style remind me of premium Zinfandel: dark fruits and creamy chocolate flavors, with gentle tannins. However, they aren’t so excessively alcoholic, and retain that characteristic acidity that means they can still find a variety of roles at the dinner table.“
Food & Wine
“Wines made from Barbera are often medium-bodied, with firm acidity and flavors suggesting red cherries and spice. (Barrel-aged versions tend to be more full-bodied, as well as more expensive.)“

Some Barberas to Try

Because there are two areas in Italy that produce the highest-quality Barbera but are distinct from each other in the style of wines produced, we present two "mini-lists", one for each region: the Barbera d’Alba and the Barbera d’Asti zones.

Barberas d’Alba:

Barberas d’Asti:

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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