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Coda di Volpe is a white-wine grape originating in the Campania region of Italy; its full name is Coda di Volpe Bianca, but just plain Coda di Volpe is the usual style. Today, its homeland of Campania remains virtually the only area in which it is grown.
Coda di Volpe is yet another grape long dismissed as minor but shooting into critical prominence in modern times. Typical well-made Coda di Volpe wines are of light to medium coloration, soft but full-bodied, and quite aromatic—anything from stone fruit to spices, plus minerality and even salinity (which helps the wine develop with aging). The palate is both fruit-laden and spice-layered, though of mild rather than sharp spice. While the grape is not inherently acidic, growing in the volcanic soils imparts extra acid into the wines, so that they are refreshing and well-balanced between acidity and fruitiness.
Coda di Volpe as a monovarietal typically comes from the Irpinia and Sannio DOCs of Campania, but is also prominent in the Vesuvio DOC, where it is a permitted grape in the well-known “Lacryma Christi” wine blends; we say blends, but while a Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio must contain at least 35% Coda di Volpe, many notable specimens are 100% Coda di Volpe.
(To give you an idea of how whacky and exacting wine laws can be, here are the specifications for Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio white wines—there are also reds, based on Piedirosso. They must be made up of at least 80% Coda di Volpe and/or Verdeca, with a 35% minimum of Coda di Volpe but with a maximum of 20% Falanghina and/or Greco.)
Factoid: One of its synonyms, Falerno, no doubt arose from a belief that this was the grape from which the storied Falernian wine of ancient Rome was made. (No one knows for sure, and several other grapes make the same claim.)
“Coda di Volpe has seen something of a revival since the 1970s, and is now used to make varietal wines under several Campanian DOCs, including Irpinia and Sannio. It is also used as a blending component in DOCs such as Sannio and Vesuvio. The latter covers wines from the lower slopes of Mount Vesuvius and generates the famous Lacryma Christi wines.…The grape’s aromatic profile leans towards the fruity (citrus and sometimes even slightly tropical) and spicy (sweet rather than peppery). It is not particularly high in acidity, which is the reason that it has done so well in Vesuvius’ volcanic soils. Volcanic soils often impart higher acidity to grapes grown in them.”
“Wine produced from Coda di Volpe are often described as medium to medium-full bodied, fruity (citrus, peach, pineapple) and spicy (nutmeg, cinnamon) on the nose, and with flavors of grapefruit, lemon, and almond. The grape tends to be low in acidity, which is one reason why it does so well in the volcanic soil surrounding Mount Vesuvius, which can help impart higher levels of acid. Beginning in the 1980’s, wineries in Campania began making single-varietal wines from Coda di Volpa, and it has grown both more widely known and popular since that time. 100% Coda di Volpa wines are now used in the DOC wines of Irpinia and Sannio and Taburno, among others.”
“Wine made from Coda di Volpe has the distinct characteristics of the varietal and a very personal and recognizable sensorial profile. When the wine is young the aroma is dominated by notes of fruit with distinct scents of pear and quince apple. The mouthfeel has structure and a nice acidity. Being particularly salty, over time the wine develops delicate toasty notes of dried fruit as well as those of citrus and smoky sensations. Aging, however, does nothing to diminish the wine’s freshness. Not many wineries produce Coda di Volpe, especially as a single-grape wine, and this is a shame because it represents a clear example of the loyalty pact between the varietal and the area where it was grown.”
“It is cultivated in Naples at the foothill of Vesuvius, and in Benevento, both in the area of Sannio and Taburno. Until a few years ago it was considered a minor grape variety and was used mostly in blends with other varieties in the area. Vinified alone, and through the efforts of wine growers from Campania it has however shown that it can achieve very attractive levels. ”
“The aromatic profile of the grape shows a fruity and spicy flavor. It is not typically high in acidity, which makes it survive in the volcanic soils of Vesuvius. The volcanic soil mostly gives extreme acidity to the grapes cultivated in them…The grape wine produced from Coda di Volpe has a bright yellow color with an intense fruity flavor…Notes of quinces and citruses impart a fresh and soft consistency on the taste bud. The wine was on the minimal side of acidity on the palate. The flavors of apple peel, creamy pear, a touch of lemony citrus and white peach is easily distinguished. The wine was subtle and delicate with a chalky minerality in the end. The nose was nicely perfumed with lemon cream, ripe pear and apple.”
“Low in acidity; high in extract and color. Austere on volcanic soils; richer and softer elsewhere…Aromas & flavors: Peach, pineapple, papaya, honey. Best DOP: Sannio DOC (esp. subzone Taburno).”
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Some Descriptions of Coda di Volpe Wines
“Coda di Volpe has seen something of a revival since the 1970s, and is now used to make varietal wines under several Campanian DOCs, including Irpinia and Sannio. It is also used as a blending component in DOCs such as Sannio and Vesuvio. The latter covers wines from the lower slopes of Mount Vesuvius and generates the famous Lacryma Christi wines.…The grape’s aromatic profile leans towards the fruity (citrus and sometimes even slightly tropical) and spicy (sweet rather than peppery). It is not particularly high in acidity, which is the reason that it has done so well in Vesuvius’ volcanic soils. Volcanic soils often impart higher acidity to grapes grown in them.”
“Wine produced from Coda di Volpe are often described as medium to medium-full bodied, fruity (citrus, peach, pineapple) and spicy (nutmeg, cinnamon) on the nose, and with flavors of grapefruit, lemon, and almond. The grape tends to be low in acidity, which is one reason why it does so well in the volcanic soil surrounding Mount Vesuvius, which can help impart higher levels of acid. Beginning in the 1980’s, wineries in Campania began making single-varietal wines from Coda di Volpa, and it has grown both more widely known and popular since that time. 100% Coda di Volpa wines are now used in the DOC wines of Irpinia and Sannio and Taburno, among others.”
“Wine made from Coda di Volpe has the distinct characteristics of the varietal and a very personal and recognizable sensorial profile. When the wine is young the aroma is dominated by notes of fruit with distinct scents of pear and quince apple. The mouthfeel has structure and a nice acidity. Being particularly salty, over time the wine develops delicate toasty notes of dried fruit as well as those of citrus and smoky sensations. Aging, however, does nothing to diminish the wine’s freshness. Not many wineries produce Coda di Volpe, especially as a single-grape wine, and this is a shame because it represents a clear example of the loyalty pact between the varietal and the area where it was grown.”
“It is cultivated in Naples at the foothill of Vesuvius, and in Benevento, both in the area of Sannio and Taburno. Until a few years ago it was considered a minor grape variety and was used mostly in blends with other varieties in the area. Vinified alone, and through the efforts of wine growers from Campania it has however shown that it can achieve very attractive levels. ”
“The aromatic profile of the grape shows a fruity and spicy flavor. It is not typically high in acidity, which makes it survive in the volcanic soils of Vesuvius. The volcanic soil mostly gives extreme acidity to the grapes cultivated in them…The grape wine produced from Coda di Volpe has a bright yellow color with an intense fruity flavor…Notes of quinces and citruses impart a fresh and soft consistency on the taste bud. The wine was on the minimal side of acidity on the palate. The flavors of apple peel, creamy pear, a touch of lemony citrus and white peach is easily distinguished. The wine was subtle and delicate with a chalky minerality in the end. The nose was nicely perfumed with lemon cream, ripe pear and apple.”
“Low in acidity; high in extract and color. Austere on volcanic soils; richer and softer elsewhere…Aromas & flavors: Peach, pineapple, papaya, honey. Best DOP: Sannio DOC (esp. subzone Taburno).”