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(Synonyms: Balau, Benicarló, Bobos, Carignan Espagnol, Carginan d’Espagne, Coreana, Espagnol, Moravio, Pobretón, Provechón, Rajeno, Requena, Terret d’Espagne, Tinta Madrid, Tonto de Zurra.)
Bobal is an old red-wine grape originating in the region of Utiel-Requena in eastern central Spain. It is today grown in the Spanish provinces of Valencia, Cueneca, and Albacete (though Sardinia also produces some).
Owing to the vines’ habit of ripening unevenly, less-carefully made renditions can be a bit rustic (though that is not necessarily a bad thing), but at its best the grape produces deeply colored smooth wines that have good acidity without high alcohol levels and are well-structured.
Bobal is another old grape variety long used for cheap bulk wine but now emerging, with the new emphasis on re-discovering neglected grapes, as quite a star, well capable of making world-class wines. A modern well-made Bobal is dark in color, tannic, acidic, of silky texture, and laden with a complex of flavors, typically all sorts of fruits—from dark-reds like cherry to dark blues like plum, blueberry and prune—plus more subtle overlays from the classic red-wine tobacco and chocolate to licorice.
Factoid: Bobal is ancient, indeed: amphorae and limestone lagares from as far back as the 7th century BCE bear witness to that.
As wine writer Beppi Crosariol has put it, “Don’t expect to unearth a wealth of bobal wines at your friendly neighbourhood liquor store. It’s still an insider’s grape, championed mainly by keen sommeliers in fine restaurants…” Indeed, while there are actually quite a few decent Bobals on the U.S. market, but most are only available at a very few retailers; here are the decent yet reasonably available bottlings.
• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.
• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.
• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.
• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.
• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.
Our nomination is the Bodegas Ponce Pino, which runs around $28 to $33.
• This wine’s Wine Searcher “Reviews” page.
• This wine’s CellarTracker review pages.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher.
• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks.
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Some Descriptions of Bobal Wines
“The best wines are deep, soft color. Bobal has traditionally been used for the production of bulk wine, but producers working in higher altitudes than 800 metres (2,625 feet) above sea level…are taking this variety more seriously and give it the attention it deserves…[T]he smell is fresh, original and fragrant. The taste is pleasantly acidic and tannic…The wines produced tend to be fruity, low in alcohol content (around 11°) and high in acidity (5.5 to 6.5 tartaric acid).”
“Bobal wines…are dense and chewy with characters of chocolate and dried berries…production of Bobal today is focusing on quality, and particularly that of the wines that come from higher altitudes…Bobal’s thick skins have a high amount of anthocyanins, giving the wine a deep, intense color as well as a good tannic structure. This trait is played up by winemakers who commonly use a technique known as doble pasta, where the grape skins left over from rosé production are added to the red grape must. This concentrates tannins and color further, leading to an intensely structured red wine.”
“At its best, Bobal makes wines known for their dark color, chewy tannins and spicy dark fruit notes with a juicy acidity.”
“Bobal avoids such perils: its acidity robust and refreshing; its structure powerful for sure, yet never too heavy or too heady. Instead its fine, crisp acidity and relatively low pH help to create age-worthy, complex wines…The resulting wine is high in resveratrol, a natural antioxidant, and, equally importantly, has a genuinely attractive fruit character; raspberry, black cherry and blueberry to the fore, with a luxuriantly silky mouthfeel and discretely persuasive yet perfectly ripe tannins. Distinctly Iberian, for sure, but with a twist of acidity to refresh and ensure a potential to age. Spain’s second most-planted red varietal is a gem and deserves greater recognition on the international stage.”
“In more recent years, however, Utiel-Requena winemakers have begun producing Bobal wines that retain the grape’s robust quality, albeit with a more restrained elegance and a deeper complexity alongside a beautiful perfume. A range of micro-climates within the nine municipalities of Utiel-Requena enables a broad spectrum of Bobal wines that express the region’s unique terroir. Notable for dark fruit flavors like plum, blueberry, prune, fig, and blackberry, Bobal pairs well with rich stews and casseroles, oily fish, and barbequed meats—and especially paella, Valencia’s signature dish.”
“While some very nice wines are made in a lighter style without the use of oak, it is those with more concentrated fruit flavors and some barrel age that best exemplify the full potential of Bobal. They display aromas of red and black fruits with notes of violet, herbs, vanilla and wood smoke, followed by flavors of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, prunes, fig and cassis, together with hints of toast and spice. As they mature, they can display additional notes of licorice, chocolate, tobacco and exhibit an appealing earthy quality. The body is often medium, sometimes full, but always with a vibrant acidity that brings life to the concentrated fruit flavors…The best varietal wines can improve for up to 10 years or more, but the jury is still out as this new incarnation of Bobal is such a recent phenomenon. It is best to open these wines an hour before serving, or decant if you prefer, to enable them to open up and reveal their full flavor profile.”
“Wines from Utiel-Requena are classified using a system that is comparable to other Spanish regions, including the categories Crianza (six months aging in oak), Reserva (3 years aging with a minimum of 12 months in oak barrels) and Gran Reserva (60 months aging with a minimum of 24 months in oak). Its important to note that the wines made with Bobal will usually also have the ‘Tradición” type noun on the label, guaranteeing at least 70% of the variety in the blend. Traditionally, the more concentrated and extracted wines will also be labelled ‘Superior’.”
“The red variety yields full-bodied, intensely fruity wines, the sort that taste good on their own, but that also marry well with a wide range of dishes thanks to that vibrant acidity and spicy punch. Think of soft grenache mixed with peppery syrah mixed with racy nebbiolo.”
“Already full of deep, velvety red fruit and fine tannin, if planted at higher elevations the grape can also deliver fresh acidity—something that is by no means a given in such a warm region. Beyond these happy qualities, the grape also reaches lower levels of sugar—and, therefore, lower alcohol—than, for example, Monastrell. Winning qualities, indeed. The grape has a large bunch and tight cluster, which means that the grapes tend not to ripen evenly. This, in turn, means that the wines can be a bit rustic if insufficient attention is given to ripening in the vineyards. But well-tended vines produce smooth, appealing wines.”
“Bobal is a hardy and highly productive red grape with high levels of anthocyanins and resveratrol in its skins. The grapes tend to be dark colored, packed with black fruit and loaded with spice flavors. I’ve found surprising balance in many Bobal wines, stemming from the combination of sturdy tannins and frequently vibrant acidity. And these wines are even more attractive when you look at the price points.”