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Arneis is a white-wine grape originating in the Piedmont region of Italy. Today, it is the featured grape in white wines from the Roero appellation (a Roero Arneis must, by law, be 100% Arneis). There are now also some plantings in the U.S. and, of late, in Australia and New Zealand.
Arneis can be difficult in the vineyard (the disease powdery mildew is a problem), plus the wines have a tendency to oxidize readily (hence its Italian nickname, “little rascal”). That last is the reason that Arneis declined substantially in the middle 20th century, down to a mere few hectares in the ’60s; but in the later part of that century, winemakers found that careful choice of vineyard location—on chalky, sandy soils—gave the wines more acidity and structure, while sandy clay soils augmented its aromas. And better winemaking techniques (always slow to come into play in Italy) have much reduced the oxidation problem. Thus, the wine has had a major revival in recent times ()plantings are now up to around 650 hectares), and is today seen as one of the premier white wines of Italy.
(One man, Alfredo Currado of the Vietti family, more or less single-handed rescued Arneis through tireless experimentation and crusading for its cause.)
Arneis wines are made in both oaked and unoaked versions. The oaked ones are, naturally, somewhat more full-bodied, while the unoaked renditions tend to be more aromatic and perfumed.
Factoid: Arneis is actually allowed, by Italian wine laws, to be used as a blending grape in Nebbiolo (a famous red wine) in the Roero appellation; though it was so used in the past, it is rarely so today.
“Better understanding of the variety in the later half of the [2oth] century helped revive the variety as winemakers found that the chalky, sandy soils around Roero gave the grapes more acidity and structure while Arneis grapes planted in sandy clay soil developed an elegant and exotic perfume…Wines fermented and/or aged in oak will be more full bodied while unoaked Arneis can have more aromatics and perfume. Arneis has the potential to produce highly perfumed wines with aromas of almonds, apricots, peaches, pears and hops.”
“In the past couple of decades, Arneis has become synonymous with the wines of Roero…There, it produces floral-scented white wines, whose delicate aromas belie the wines’ relatively full bodies and generous flavors – typically of pear and apricot rounded out with a creamy hint of hazelnut.”
“Arneis produces very fragrant wines with notes of pear and apple. The elegance of the aroma hides the fact that the wines are medium to full bodied with pear, apple, stone fruit and nutty notes. With its rich flavour profile, Arneis will appeal to anyone who loves fruit-driven Chardonnay or Verdelho.”
Quoting Ian D’Agata: “Arneis can be one of Italy’s most delicious white wines, exhibiting a thrilling range of aromas and flavors of surprising if subtle complexity. The wines are delicately straw-green, with aromas of white flowers, chamomile, white peach, and apricot and flavors of citrus, ripe pear, apricot, and sweet almond.”
“Arneis is most often made in stainless steel vats. Although some producers use oak to make a fuller bodied wine, I believe that removes some of the crisp freshness that makes Arneis special…The wine is best to drink in the first year or two after [release]. Arneis should have a pale golden color with aromas of pear and apricot. With some producers, Arneis also has a floral tone. I have been told the wines produced from less sandy soils capture this floral quality better. Arneis is bone dry and very crisp to drink.”
“An aromatic grape varietal that has been overshadowed by the world-class grapes that grow around it in its home region of Piemonte, in northwestern Italy…good examples of Arneis can be both rich and viscous, similar to Viognier in weight and Pinot Blanc in flavors and aromas. Almonds, peaches, vanillin and flowers are common components of Arneis. Poor examples can be flabby or neutral…Look to the DOCs of Langhe and Roero in Piemonte for fine Arneis.”
“Arneis wines in Australia can be a little neutral, perhaps because most vineyards are relatively young. But at their best these wines can be complex and aromatic and redolent of almonds, pears, peaches and honey. As aromatic white wines these are best served when young and fresh”
“Wine made from Arneis is generally slightly aromatic and light with hints of grassy aromas and a flavor that recalls almond. The acidity is a bit weak, especially for grapes that have ripened to perfection, and thus the wine is for the most part simple and pleasing. Initially, it was thought that the wine had little propensity to age but in recent years some producers have been making versions that are particularly complex and surprising and the introduction of a Riserva wine indicates that producers themselves are convinced they can make a wine that ages well.”
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Some Descriptions of Arneis Wines
“Better understanding of the variety in the later half of the [2oth] century helped revive the variety as winemakers found that the chalky, sandy soils around Roero gave the grapes more acidity and structure while Arneis grapes planted in sandy clay soil developed an elegant and exotic perfume…Wines fermented and/or aged in oak will be more full bodied while unoaked Arneis can have more aromatics and perfume. Arneis has the potential to produce highly perfumed wines with aromas of almonds, apricots, peaches, pears and hops.”
“In the past couple of decades, Arneis has become synonymous with the wines of Roero…There, it produces floral-scented white wines, whose delicate aromas belie the wines’ relatively full bodies and generous flavors – typically of pear and apricot rounded out with a creamy hint of hazelnut.”
“Arneis produces very fragrant wines with notes of pear and apple. The elegance of the aroma hides the fact that the wines are medium to full bodied with pear, apple, stone fruit and nutty notes. With its rich flavour profile, Arneis will appeal to anyone who loves fruit-driven Chardonnay or Verdelho.”
Quoting Ian D’Agata: “Arneis can be one of Italy’s most delicious white wines, exhibiting a thrilling range of aromas and flavors of surprising if subtle complexity. The wines are delicately straw-green, with aromas of white flowers, chamomile, white peach, and apricot and flavors of citrus, ripe pear, apricot, and sweet almond.”
“Arneis is most often made in stainless steel vats. Although some producers use oak to make a fuller bodied wine, I believe that removes some of the crisp freshness that makes Arneis special…The wine is best to drink in the first year or two after [release]. Arneis should have a pale golden color with aromas of pear and apricot. With some producers, Arneis also has a floral tone. I have been told the wines produced from less sandy soils capture this floral quality better. Arneis is bone dry and very crisp to drink.”
“An aromatic grape varietal that has been overshadowed by the world-class grapes that grow around it in its home region of Piemonte, in northwestern Italy…good examples of Arneis can be both rich and viscous, similar to Viognier in weight and Pinot Blanc in flavors and aromas. Almonds, peaches, vanillin and flowers are common components of Arneis. Poor examples can be flabby or neutral…Look to the DOCs of Langhe and Roero in Piemonte for fine Arneis.”
“Arneis wines in Australia can be a little neutral, perhaps because most vineyards are relatively young. But at their best these wines can be complex and aromatic and redolent of almonds, pears, peaches and honey. As aromatic white wines these are best served when young and fresh”
“Wine made from Arneis is generally slightly aromatic and light with hints of grassy aromas and a flavor that recalls almond. The acidity is a bit weak, especially for grapes that have ripened to perfection, and thus the wine is for the most part simple and pleasing. Initially, it was thought that the wine had little propensity to age but in recent years some producers have been making versions that are particularly complex and surprising and the introduction of a Riserva wine indicates that producers themselves are convinced they can make a wine that ages well.”