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The Syrah Grape


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About Syrah

(Synonyms: Candive, Hermitage, Marsanne Noire, Petite Sirrah, Sérène, Serine, Sérine, Serinne, Shiraz, Sira, Sirah, Sirac, Syra, Syrac)

Pronunciation: see-RAH  [or shee-RAHZ for the Australians]

Background

Map showing the Rhône Valley.

Syrah is a red-wine grape originating in the Rhône Valley region of France. It is today widely considered one of the dozen and a half or so “Noble wine grapes” of the world, and arguably one of France’s top three red-wine grapes (along with Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon). The wine remains the mainstay of Rhône reds, but is also cultivated with great success in a great many other areas, most notably Australia (as “Shiraz”), California, Washington State (where it is arguably the signature red grape), and Chile.

Syrah is readily recognizeable once encountered. While its style varies somewhat from region to region, depending on climate, it is always at least medium-bodied, and more often quite full-bodied, with strong fruit, definite tannins, and the characteristic “flannel” quality of Rhône reds. Also often mentioned is a “smoky” taste element (and, not infrequently, bacon, of all things). In general, the warmer the climate where the grapes are grown, the fuller the and more strongly flavored the wine (Australian Shiraz represents this especially full character).

Syrah wines, broadly speaking, tend to be more variable in styling than is the case for many other “noble” red grapes. Some wine writers express the major perceived distinction as “Syrah vs Shiraz”, while many others express it in relation to its home in the Rhône region as “cool-climate vs warm-climate” wines. The “northern” or “cool-climate” or “Syrah” types are seen as somewhat leaner, smokier and less fruit-forward, and tannic enough to benefit from significant aging (though drinkable young); the “southern” or “warm-climate” or “Shiraz” wines are heavier-bodied, more fruit-forward, and more aimed at immediate consumption. Either way, one thing most seem to agree on is that Syrah/Shiraz benefits even more than most from getting a good airing before serving, so open it well in advance and decant (or otherwise aerate) it.

Syrah also appears in blends, especially from the southern parts of the Rhône region, where it is partnered with Grenache; northern Rhône Syrah-based wines are rarely if ever blended (save that, occasionally and curiously, a wee tad of white-wine Viognier might be added). Rhône reds are among the most prestigious in the world, and include such names as Hermitage and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

For various reasons, Syrah has not been a big seller in the U.S.—which means that there are bargains (at least in a relative sense) to be had. Not a few wine writers (see some of the remarks below) feel that this disinclination arose from the glut of Australian Shiraz that washed onto American shores some years back; there was (and is), to be sure, some tremendously good stuff in there, but there was also a lot of overblown, and over-priced, super-jammy “fruit bomb” stuff of little or no character or distinction, giving the varietal an association with plonk. (That sort of problem has infested other varietals, too, from Riesling—“No American will pay over $6 for a bottle of Riesling” as a winemaker once complained to us—to Merlot.)

Factoid: In the U.S., awareness of Rhône wines was materially raised by the activities of a few dedicated winemakers who informally called themselves the "Rhône Rangers".

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Some Descriptions of Syrah Wines

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Some Syrah Bottlings to Try

(About this list.)

  Wines with a critics’ consensus score of 90:
Borsao "Zarihs" Syrah   [or search Cellar Tracker for this wine]
Polkura Syrah   [or search Cellar Tracker for this wine]

  Wines with a critics’ consensus score of 89:
Chateau de Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone   [or search Cellar Tracker for this wine]
Klinker Brick "Farráh" Syrah   [or search Cellar Tracker for this wine]
Montes Alpha Syrah   [or search Cellar Tracker for this wine]

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This page was last modified on Sunday, 15 December 2024, at 4:43 pm Pacific Time.