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(Synonyms: Candive, Hermitage, Marsanne Noire, Petite Sirrah, Sérène, Serine, Sérine, Serinne, Shiraz, Sira, Sirah, Sirac, Syra, Syrac)
Syrah is a red-wine grape originating in the Rhône Valley region of France. It is today widely considered one of the dozen and a half or so “Noble wine grapes” of the world, and arguably one of France’s top three red-wine grapes (along with Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon). The wine remains the mainstay of Rhône reds, but is also cultivated with great success in a great many other areas, most notably Australia (as “Shiraz”), California, Washington State (where it is arguably the signature red grape), and Chile.
Syrah is readily recognizeable once encountered. While its style varies somewhat from region to region, depending on climate, it is always at least medium-bodied, and more often quite full-bodied, with strong fruit, definite tannins, and the characteristic “flannel” quality of Rhône reds. Also often mentioned is a “smoky” taste element (and, not infrequently, bacon, of all things). In general, the warmer the climate where the grapes are grown, the fuller the and more strongly flavored the wine (Australian Shiraz represents this especially full character).
Syrah wines, broadly speaking, tend to be more variable in styling than is the case for many other “noble” red grapes. Some wine writers express the major perceived distinction as “Syrah vs Shiraz”, while many others express it in relation to its home in the Rhône region as “cool-climate vs warm-climate” wines. The “northern” or “cool-climate” or “Syrah” types are seen as somewhat leaner, smokier and less fruit-forward, and tannic enough to benefit from significant aging (though drinkable young); the “southern” or “warm-climate” or “Shiraz” wines are heavier-bodied, more fruit-forward, and more aimed at immediate consumption. Either way, one thing most seem to agree on is that Syrah/Shiraz benefits even more than most from getting a good airing before serving, so open it well in advance and decant (or otherwise aerate) it.
Syrah also appears in blends, especially from the southern parts of the Rhône region, where it is partnered with Grenache; northern Rhône Syrah-based wines are rarely if ever blended (save that, occasionally and curiously, a wee tad of white-wine Viognier might be added). Rhône reds are among the most prestigious in the world, and include such names as Hermitage and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
For various reasons, Syrah has not been a big seller in the U.S.—which means that there are bargains (at least in a relative sense) to be had. Not a few wine writers (see some of the remarks below) feel that this disinclination arose from the glut of Australian Shiraz that washed onto American shores some years back; there was (and is), to be sure, some tremendously good stuff in there, but there was also a lot of overblown, and over-priced, super-jammy “fruit bomb” stuff of little or no character or distinction, giving the varietal an association with plonk. (That sort of problem has infested other varietals, too, from Riesling—“No American will pay over $6 for a bottle of Riesling” as a winemaker once complained to us—to Merlot.)
Factoid: In the U.S., awareness of Rhône wines was materially raised by the activities of a few dedicated winemakers who informally called themselves the "Rhône Rangers".
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Some Descriptions of Syrah Wines
“The style and flavor profile of wines made from Syrah is influenced by the climate where the grapes are grown with moderate climates (such as the northern Rhône Valley and parts of the Walla Walla AVA in Washington State) tending to produce medium to full-bodied wines with medium-plus to high levels of tannins and flavors of blackberry, mint and black pepper notes. In hot climates (such as the Barossa Valley of Australia), Syrah is more consistently full-bodied with softer tannin, jammier fruit and spice notes of liquorice, anise and earthy leather. In many regions the acidity and tannin levels of Syrah allows the wines produced from the grape to have favorable aging potential…Aroma characters can range from violets to berries (usually dark as opposed to red), chocolate, espresso and black pepper. No one aroma can be called ‘typical’ though blackberry and pepper are often noticed. With time in the bottle these ‘primary’ notes are moderated and then supplemented with earthy or savory ‘tertiary’ notes such as leather and truffle. ‘Secondary’ flavor and aroma notes are those associated with several things, generally winemakers' practices (such as oak barrel and yeast treatment)…‘Syrah’-labelled wines are sometimes thought to be more similar to classic Northern Rhône reds; presumably more elegant, tannic, smoke-flavoured and restrained with respect to their fruit component. ‘Shiraz’-labelled wines, on the other hand, would then be more similar to archetypical Australian or other New World examples; presumably made from riper berries, more fruit-driven, higher in alcohol, less obviously tannic, peppery rather than smokey, usually more easily approached when young, and possibly slightly sweetish in impression. It must however be realized that this rule of thumb is unevenly applied…Due to their concentrated flavours and high tannin content, many premium Syrah wines are at their best after some considerable bottle aging. In exceptional cases, this may be 15 years or longer.”
“Syrah is responsible for some of the darkest full-bodied red wines in the world. It has dark fruit flavors from sweet blueberry to savory black olive. When you taste Syrah you’ll be greeted with a punch of flavor that tapers off and then has a spicy peppery note in the aftertaste. Because of its front-loaded style, Syrah is often blended with grapes that add more mid-palate, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, to help make the wine taste more complete. Traditionally in France, Syrah is blended with light-bodied Grenache and even richer Mourvedre to create the classic Côtes du Rhône blend. Old World Syrahs from Italy and France tend to have more acidity and earthy-herbaceous aromas. New World-styled Syrah wines from Australia, The U.S. and South America usually have more fruit-driven characteristics with lots of spice.”
“Syrah is most closely associated with the Northern Rhône appellations of Hermitage and Côte-Rotie, where it produces wines of phenomenal elegance and longevity. It is tremendously flexible, and can make elegant and restrained wines as well as wines bursting with fruit and oak, in locations as diverse as France, California, South Africa, and Australia. In the 1650s, South Africa was the first country outside France to plant Syrah, but it has never been more than a minor variety there. In Australia, however, where it arrived at the end of the 18th Century, it has become the most widely planted grape in that country. In the northern Rhône, Syrah is typically made as a varietal wine, at times co-fermented or blended with small amounts of Viognier. In the southern Rhône, Syrah is an important blending varietal, and second only to Grenache in acreage. It partners lends to Grenache-based blends darker color, structure, tannin and ageability…Wines made from Syrah are intense with a dark purple-black color. The wines taste of blackberry and black raspberry fruit, smoke, tar and black pepper, and have a smooth supple texture. Syrah reflects minerality well, and the chalky character of the tannins provides a wonderful backbone to softer, fruitier varietals such as Grenache and Counoise.
“Shiraz wines display firm tannins (although they are typically ripe and smooth, not abrasive like younger reds can be), a medium to full body, and the rich round flavors of black cherry, blackberry, plum, bell pepper, black pepper, clove, licorice, dark chocolate and smoked meat.”
“Syrah’s characteristic flavors have been described as dark fruits, sometimes smoke, meat (particularly bacon), leather and a white pepper finish. Cooler regions seem to bring out black pepper, green olive and spice aromas while warmer regions have more pronounced raspberry, cherry and earthy notes.”
“Certainly, Americans buy Côte-Rôtie when made by Guigal. They’ll even pay hundreds of dollars a bottle. These can be great wines, though perhaps atypical. But I fear that their stylistic legacy – ultra-ripe syrah fruit and lots of new oak flavor, especially when made with grapes from less distinctive sites by less experienced winemakers – results in too many wines of little character. This, I suggest, is why American don’t buy a lot of syrah: Too many of the wines seem generic, a blend of fruit and oak that may be vaguely pleasant but could come from anywhere and be made of any grape.”
“Syrah wines can display myriad dark-fruit flavors. Varietal Syrah can be quite floral in its youth, developing more peppery and herbaceous notes as it ages. Some examples show tanned leather and smoky scents, while the fruit in these wines tends towards the very dark flavors of blackcurrant and licorice.”
“Syrah has merit, it has panache, it has style and grace, and it’s the best deal in red wine now. Think wines with spiced black fruits, velvety rims, tannins that purr and a backbone of peppery spice. You can spend $50 on a full-bodied Cabernet today if you want to do that, but why not gamble a bit and spend $30 on a Syrah?”
“Syrah is used primarily for producing strong red wines. The world’s 7th most grown grape in 2004, it is used as a varietal just as often as it’s blended. Its high tannin content gives it the ability to influence powerfully flavored, full bodied wines. Syrah wines tend to have an intensely rich, chewy texture with dark violet and black hues. Aromas lean on the spicier side, rather than fruity. Syrah’s smoky attributes and its ability to flourish in a large range of climates gives winemakers the chance to put their artistry into full practice, defining Syrah wines by the terroir and flavors such as black cherry, pepper, and spice.”
“No grape scores higher on the intensity meter than Syrah. It’s the marquee grape of France’s Rhône Valley, where it makes smoky, powerful reds with hints of black pepper. It has also become the signature grape of Australia, where it’s called Shiraz, and typically produces fruitier, less tannic wines marked by sweet blackberry flavors. American Syrahs lean more toward the Australian mold, thanks to California’s similarly moderate weather; there are a few very good, earthy Syrahs coming from South Africa, too.”