The Counoise Grape

(Synonyms: Coneze, Connoges, Connoise, Counèse, Counoïse, Counïso, Counoueiso, Guélnoise, Quenoise, Rivier.)

Background

Counoise is a red-wine grape originating in the Rhône Valley region of France, which remains its primary source; there are also, however, some plantings in the U.S. (notably in Californian and Washington State).

Counoise is another of the many grapes traditionally used chiefly or wholly as components of blends, but now attracting some attention as an interesting monovarietal. When made with appropriate care, it can produce a red-fruit, medium-bodied wine of some interest and even complexity. It is not unlike a Beaujolais or Gamay, but perhaps somewhat spicier.

Factoid: Counoise is sometimes confused with the Aubun grape, in good part because it was once common to have the two grown together in "field blends"; but Aubun is considered distinctly lower in quality than Counoise.

Some Descriptions of Counoise Wines

Wikipedia
“Counoise adds a peppery note and good acidity to a blended red wine, but does not have much depth of colour or tannin.”
Wine Searcher
“Counoise is often described as a peppery and spicy grape variety, but it also adds much in the way of plum and wild berry (strawberry and raspberry) flavors. Secondary notes of anise and licorice have also been described in some varietal examples. Counoise is mostly used in blends because the variety lacks deep color, strong tannins and potential alcohol. However, it does provide good acidity and in Provence it is used to make crisp and lively rosé wine, while in California there is an increasing trend towards producing varietal Counoise wines.”
Palate Press
“Counoise, when consumed on its own, is a fruit-forward wine with a plum and garnet color, boasting hints of cherry and raspberry, soft tannins, medium acidity, and an earthy finish. A lack of strong tannins and oxidative tendencies make it better for early drinking than long aging.”
Exalted Rations
“I’d thumbnail sketch [Counoise] to you as a sort of sophisticated, cool-site California Pinot Noir made by a European winemaker, or more esoterically, but perhaps more accurately, like a good Austrian St. Laurent.”
rhone-wines.com
“Wines made from Counoise are light in colour. They are delicate and fruity in flavour, with a variety of fruity, floral and spicy notes.”
Municipal Wine Makers
“It tastes like a round, fleshy berry…full of berries…but it also has a cool rustic character as well as some spice and savory leather notes to keep it interesting. Those characters increase with some time in the bottle. Counoise bears some resemblance to Grenache, but the tannins are much softer. This is a wine that is meant to be consumed within a couple years, when you can enjoy the pretty perfume and aromas.”
McCrea cellars
“Much as with Cinsault, the grape produces very large berries, but with proper irrigation and some amount of saignee in the cellar, it can offer wines of red-purple color, scented with blue plum, tart cherry pie and cranberry. It has great acidity, is a good blender, yet is a perfect stand-alone red.”
Kobrand Wine
“Counoise shows fruit, finesse and complexity when properly cultivated, but can be light and bitter when overcropped. It does not have much color or tannin, but brings good acidity to Châteauneuf-du-Pape blends.”

Some Counoises to Try

There are very, very few Counoise bottlings on the U.S. retail market (less than half a dozen). As between quality, price, and availability, we have found but one to list (and no “splurge” wines either).

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

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