The Kerner Grape

Kerner is a white-wine grape originating in Germany, where it was deliberately produced in 1929 (though not actually released till as late as 1969) as a cross between Trollinger (aka Schiava) and Riesling; the idea was to produce a Riesling-like grape that could better flourish in colder climates than Riesling prefers. It is one of the few modern man-made grape crossings to make wine that is generally considered to be of well above average quality.

Kerner is today widely grown in Germany, as well as parts of Austria, Switzerland, and Italy (and to a much lesser extent in Canada, England, and even Japan). In the U.S., however, almost all Kerner available at retail comes from the Germanic Alto Adige region of northern Italy.

Kerner does, as its developers hoped, to some extent resemble Riesling. The wines tend to be somewaht lower in acid than Riesling (and so do not age quite as famously as does Riesling), but are somewhat fuller in body. By and large, one may say that if one likes Riesling (and who does not?), one will like Kerner. All things considered, Riesling is arguably the greatest white-wine grape in the world, but is often priced accordingly, making Kerner a reasonable alternative for the wine drinker (besides its being a blessing to winemakers because it can grow in so many more places than the somewhat fussy Riesling).

All that said, not a few wine critics hold that Kerner should not be viewed as “a Riesling substitute”, but rather valued and enjoyed for itself. It does have some small but perhaps subjectively significant differences from Riesling, and its proponents—growing in number—appreciate and esteem Kerner as Kerner.

Factoid: Kerner is often used (or abused) as an ingredient in what one source calls “the infamous Liebfraumilch”.

Some Descriptions of Kerner Wines

Wikipedia
“Color: Transparent straw yellow, sometimes with golden reflex. Aromas: Pronounced varietal bouquet, often with a Muscat tone; fresh aromas offer a tasty blend of mixed white fruits, with hints of apple, grapefruit and a tropical whiff of mango. Taste: Resembling Riesling, Kerner wines are fresh, racy and fruity, but yet milder in acidity and showing more body.”
Wine Searcher
“Like Riesling, Kerner is high in acid and has the ability to age well for many years. As a varietal wine it lacks the flavor and textural refinement of Riesling, but shows attractive apple, pear and citrus characteristics, sometimes with a hint of stonefruit.”
Fringe Wine
“Like pretty much all successful crossings, Kerner can yield very large crops which, if left unchecked, can create thin, dilute wines. If properly managed in the vineyard and if given enough time to ripen fully (it is often not fully ripe until well into October), it can create exotically perfumed wines that resemble Riesling…All in all, Kerner probably isn’t going to replace Riesling any time soon, but it is a refreshing change of pace. I’d recommend drinking these wines young and pairing them with fairly hefty dishes that aren’t particularly acidic. Also, because of the body and the high alcohol content, these feel more like autumn or winter weather whites to me, as they’re not all that refreshing to drink on their own.”
L.A. Weekly
“It’s often difficult to find white wines that have richness without oak or heavy sweetness, that are intensely aromatic without falling into floweriness. But the Kerners I’ve tried all manage that—to be crisp and mineral, to sing with tart citrus, and yet to be full and generous in the mouth. They can be almost oily on the palate, and many of them have that hint of petrol that so many of us adore.”
Wine Lovers page
“Jancis Robinson speaks highly of Kerner, declaring it ‘commendably close to Riesling in flavour except with [its] own leafy aroma and very slightly coarser texture.’…With its growing reputation, Kerner may not rate as ‘offbeat’ or ‘little-known’ for very long.”
The Wine Economist
“Kerner is embraced here [the Alto Adige] for what it is, not as a Riesling sequel or substitute. The Valle Isarco (or Eisachtaler in German), which follows the Isarco river up into the Alps, is the main Kerner region and here, freed of stereotypes, it achieves something quite special…In fact, they are among the very best white wines of Italy. Or at least that’s what the editors of the Gambero Rosso guide seem to think. My 2007 Vini d’Italia guide lists three Kerner wines (from Cantina Valle Isarco, Manfred Nössing-Hoandlhof and Abbazia di Novacella) among the 282 wines from all of Italy receiving the highest ‘three glasses’ (tre bichierri) award. That’s a disproportionate achievement for an invisible wine from a tiny Alto Adige valley. Kerner shows that local wines can excel if local markets embrace them and that even invisible wines can sometimes shine in the spotlight.”
Italian Food, Wine, and Travel
“The wines made from this varietal are wonderfully rich in flavor, with bright floral aromas and a full, fruity palate.”
German Food Guide
“Kerner wines are produced in every ripeness level and taste. They are light to golden yellow in color. They are similar to Riesling – fresh acidity, rich, fruity character – yet are more fragrant than the Riesling, showing hints of pears, citrus, apples, red currants, and apricots.”
GermanWine.de
“The wines are fresh, racy and fruity – not unlike Riesling – yet milder in acidity, with a more pronounced bouquet, often with a Muscat tone.”
Vini Alto Adige
“This grape produces sleek, spicy Italian white wines with a slight hint of nutmeg. Thanks to its rich abundance of aroma and its fine, fruity bouquet, Kerner has the potential to become a new point of pride for Alto Adige’s winegrowers.”
Jon Bonné, SFGate
“Kerner, a cross of Riesling and the light red Schiava [aka Trollinger], is that rare example of grape breeding that rises beyond curiosity. Kerner’s balance of heady fruit and mineral depth particularly shines in the alpine soils.”
Into Wine
“Remarkably similar to Riesling, loaded with aromas and flavors of quince, lemon-lime, high-tone citrus, and tree fruit with a subtle sweetness and focused minerality, Kerner has slightly less elevated aromas and a broader mouthfeel than Riesling. Subsequently, Kerner pairs well in any situation where there is spicy and/or spicy sweet food. And though Kerner is actually a German product, now the country’s third most planted variety, the Italians are showing the most promise with the grape. In particular, the best Kerner can be found in the northern region of Alto-Adige, tucked in the Pre-Alps of Italy’s northern borders with Switzerland and Austria.”

Some Kerners to Try

The number of Kerner wines available in the world seems (and is) large, but comb reviews and those available at all in the U.S. are far fewer— and when one gets down to Kerners reasonably available at under $20, there really are only a few. And these are they; the paucity reflects the status of the grape in American sensibilities, which is a shame.

For a Splurge

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This page was last modified on Saturday, 30 October 2021, at 11:26 pm Pacific Time.

That Useful Wine Site

The Kerner Grape

About Kerner

Background

Some Descriptions of Kerner Wines

Some Kerners to Try

For a Splurge

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