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The Trajadura Grape


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About Trajadura

(Synonyms: Treixadura, Treixadura blanca, Teixadura blanca, Tragadura, Trinca dente, Trincadente, Trincadeira, Verdello Rubio.)

Background

Map showing  Iberia (Portugal and Spain)

Trajadura is a white-wine grape originating in Portugal, but also grown considerably in Spain, where it is known as Treixadura. Though it has long been primarily used (in both nations) as a blending grape, the number of monovarietal bottlings is increasing as new winemakers discover the grape's full potential.

When vinified as a monovarietal, it seems to produce pleasing wines of some distinction and character, with aromas and flavors of peach and other tree fruit (such as apples), with a light overlay of citrus (orange is often mentioned). One of the foremost new makers championing this grape makes a wine that eminent critic Jancis Robinson described thus:

[V]ery appetising with a rather smoky nose and some citrus notes, athough it is definitely bigger and less nervy than a typical Godello. There was substantial fruit on the mid palate without a lot of alcohol - just 13%. .  There is excellent balance of fruit and acidity and this very well made wine with a good, punchy finish, is bone dry.

Thought the grape is more grown in Portugal, it seems to be the Spanish winemakers who are most interested in monovarietal versions: a monovarietal Trajadura is rather less common than a monovarietal Treixadura. Unfortunately, the U.S. seems far behind, say, the U.K. in importing the new generation of monovarietal wines from this grape; there are not many available at all (despite there being quite a few made), and what few there are to be found take some searching out. But, by report, it is worth the effort.

Factoid: In Spain's Ribeiro region, Treixadura grapes are used to make a distinctive sweet wine known as "Tostado del Ribeiro"; you can read more about it at the Taste of Galicia site.


Some Descriptions of Trajadura Wines


Some Trajaduras to Try

(About this list.)

As noted above, monovarietal bottlings are scarce in the U.S. retail market. As we have said many times in these pages, there is nothing the matter with blends—many of the world's best wines are blends—but when investigating a new varietal, one likes to have the thing itself in its full nature; we have stuck to that principle here (well, one wine has a 2% admixture), though it shrank an already brief list. We also caution you that some of the listed wines are apparently sold by only a few retailers. (Mind, not every wine retailer in the nation shows up in even the Pro version of Wine Searcher, so keep your eyes open in your favorite neighborhood wine shops.)

Correlated with the lack of availability of Trajadura/Treixadura wines in the U.S. is a lack of reviews: the literature is very sparse. Even including material in Spanish or Portugese, if one omits (as we do) material from folk who want to sell you some, little remains. If you are looking for a "hip" movement, get in early on appreciating these wines as monovarietals.

The quotations below are excerpts; we strenuously urge you to click on the green diamond symbol by each quoted review to see the full article.
Coto de Gomariz "La Flor y La Abeja" ("The Flower and the Bee") Treixadura
(Ribeiro, Spain; 100% Treixadura.)

• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher
• This wine's CellarTracker review pages.
• This wine's Wine Searcher "Tasting Notes" page.


Some quotations and facts about this wine:

I love this wine. It’s beautifully packaged, and its contents are great, too. From the northwest of Spain, and specifically the Ribeiro appellation, it’s a varietal Treixadura (in neighbouring Vinho Verde region of Portugal, it is known as Trajadura). This wine has depth of flavour plus freshness, and it’s quite distinctive. Deep yellow/gold colour, this is a lovely full-flavoured white wine. Powerful flavours of herbs, pears and white peach, with some apricot and spice notes. Real presence, but not at all heavy. Just lovely fruit intensity, and amazing freshness. 92/100.

Light yellow with golden reflections. Endearingly focused and intense nose, marrying citric notes of lime, roses, freshly cut grass, and mineral notes. Easy-drinking on the palate, fresh and crunchy at point of entry. Salty and and oily. Elegant bitterness at the finish, with white fruit flavours. 5+ (5 = "Excellent price/quality relationship")

Wine Advocate (date unknown), 90 points.

Ribeiro may not be as famous as Rías Baixas next door, but there are some cracking wines emanating from there. The local Treixadura (also found over the border in Vinho Verde) is here made in a honeyed and mealy style, with creamy richness over apples and minerals. On the palate it has that tang of sour lemon that is so evocative, a very grown up bite of endive, but the ripe core of fruit and full body also carries a little spice into the finish. Delightful stuff. 90/100.

For total Treixadura immersion therapy there is no better fix than The Flower and The Bee from Coto de Gomariz –an organic estate in Ribeiro. These guys set out to make a great quality, affordable example of this little-known grape and they’ve more than succeeded. There are few whites I’d rather come home to.

If you've been charmed by the peachy albariños of Rías Baixas in north-west Spain, this complex white made from treixadura in the neighbouring Galician region, Ribeiro, is well worth considering for the [holiday] turkey. It's textured and full with ripe greengage and apricot and a touch of yeasty savouriness, plus a pithy citrus quality that gives it real verve, bite and balance.

Produced from the Treixadura grape in the north west of Spain, The Flower and the Bee is intensely aromatic with wafts of wildflower honey emanating from the glass. Savoury flavours are evident when you drink it, providing a foil to the rich element of Christmas.

[C]haracteristics of apple, honey, citrus and creamed corn .  . super examples of aromatic, classy Galician white wine.



Señorío de Beade Primacía Treixadura
(Ribeiro, Spain; 98% Treixadura, 2% Loureira & Albariño, though other sources list different percentages.)

• Retail offers of this wine listed by 1000 Corks
• Retail offers of this wine listed by Wine Searcher
• This wine's CellarTracker review pages.
• This wine's Wine Searcher "Tasting Notes" page.


Some quotations and facts about this wine:

[Google-translated from Spanish:] Very intense wine in nose full of tropical fruit with freshness and pleasant acidity. Its aromas remind us of a floral forest dominated by the field herbs. On the palate it has power, its acidity and its bitter notes in its end give it length.

♣ A long roll call of awarded honors for this wine appears on the Catavinium site.

[Google-translated from Spanish:] Visual Phase: In visual phase it is straw-yellow, bright, with greenish reflections. Olfactory phase: Aroma powerful, fine, elegant and complex, rich in nuances of marked varietal origin, floral notes (rose petals) and fruity (citrus peel and green plum). Taste phase: In the mouth it is intense and balanced, with structure, very varietal, tasty, long and elegant, with a fresh and fruity aftertaste.



For a Splurge

A fair sample is the Luis A. Rodriguez Vazquez Viña de Martin "Os Pasás" Blanco (Ribeiro, Spain).

• That wine at 1000 Corks
• That wine at Wine Searcher
• Its Wine Searcher "Tasting Notes" page.
• Its CellarTracker pages.

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